|
Post by km4nxa on Feb 10, 2018 14:45:56 GMT -5
Late last night my buddy hit a deer about quarter mile from the house. Hands down a perfect kill, broke his neck, was dead on impact. Absolute zero damage done to any meat or organs. Fresh deer liver going on the grill today.
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Jan 16, 2018 20:07:09 GMT -5
Started to paint plastics on bike doing every part lol wow what a job to get right all in the prep i would do 4-5 to 1 hours prep to paint i had a very sun damaged part but wet sanded from It was worse but sanded and then plastic fill primer 2 coats and sanded to 2000 ready for gloss white and clear coat Im allso doing these in gloss white as well Lol im not paying over $100 per piece to buy ill put the time and $25 per piece lol and have the satisfaction that i did it keep you posted as the rest gets top coat If your handy with a dremel, can go to Lowe's and get 12" x 12" pieces of diamond plate. Very easy to shape with right bit. Also can be bolted over the fresh paint...so if ever want to remove, paint usually is still in great condition.
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Jan 16, 2018 19:57:05 GMT -5
Will do. I took top off this evening after reading, turned piston about 3/4 down and put a few shots of it around wall. Will recheck in the morning if compression comes up any.
It leaked down to around 35 in three hours. Again, don't know if any leak down is acceptable on these or not.
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Jan 16, 2018 13:17:18 GMT -5
Had a project setting to the side for a while. Decided to start on it today. 2000 era race kart frame with an 89 yz125 motor on it, 2T. Never dealt much with dirt bikes. But for most part, a small engine is a small engine, two stroke or four way I try to look at it.
Guy claimed motor had a fresh build on it when it was brought by. I can visually see new components, gaskets, seals etc. Also top of piston looks new as new can be. So, I'm going to assume (for time being) it's a fresh build.
With that being said, couple questions for anyone that has experience with these. 1) what should compression be. I've googled till I'm blue in the face, nothing fount for a 88-89 us specifically. But it seems 130-160 is where a typical 2T dirt bike of that size should be. I'm getting 72psi at best wot. Before I focus too much on that, I want to make sure that the 88-89 models weren't an exception to the general 130-160 rule. Second, timing...I know on any four stroke scooter, I can pull the wire off plug, hook up timing light to plug wire, turn it over and light works properly. Do the same on the 125 motor, nothing happens. Light is set up for two stroke when I try it. There is spark, but it seems weak. Tried to different cdi boxes. Brand new stator. Do these engines have to be running in order for the timing light to work?
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Jan 1, 2018 16:49:59 GMT -5
Little confused, prob not reading the last part right. Did you end up getting two pistons, first one was hitting so a second one was ordered or did you clear the skirt material that was causing the problems
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Dec 31, 2017 15:51:04 GMT -5
You can also take the end of line not going to anything now, fold it over a few times essentially crimping it, then take a zip tie to the folded sections. This isn't the best resolution picture in the world, but you might be able to make it out enough to see what I'm saying
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Dec 31, 2017 15:44:46 GMT -5
this really needs to get fixed right, if they lose a stator, they're screwed right now Agree 100%, explained all the negatives of what could happen to the owner. His thinking of the situation was he either walks to work this week waiting on payday to get the parts, or still waits on payday but no walking as long as the stator doesn't fail. Was a lesser of two evils in his mind.
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Dec 30, 2017 17:37:53 GMT -5
Definitely something to keep in mind for future. Always say anything is worth a try once.
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Dec 30, 2017 17:37:07 GMT -5
just an idea, since they are both shot anyway, throw some epoxy over the taper before putting it back together. the case has to be split, so I think everything could be removed as one piece, or hammered apart I know the lapping compound has produced successful results, this time it wasn't enough. Got it running, but once the rider was on and started to pull out, sputter central. Flywheel spun on crank. I'm a trusty user of jb kwik. You raise a valid point, it's gotta be split regardless when he gets both new parts, so I went that route. Wouldn't recommend it unless you know for sure it's a part that will need replacing. That flywheel is prob on there for good at this point. May have been able to use something bit more forgiving but he understand the situation and that it's a somewhat temp fix.
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Dec 29, 2017 16:23:27 GMT -5
Lowe's would have the adapter you need more than likely. I've gotten several from there to do just that. Without looking I don't know the size right off, but it's a female pipe thread to a 1/4 barb fitting. Female part screws into tank, your fuel line fits onto the barb.
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Dec 29, 2017 15:03:00 GMT -5
Thanks, headed to get a tube of it now. The threads on the crank were basically gone, thinking over time its allowed flywheel to have movement, maybe vibration had part to do with key problem. Gonna run a die over the threads, use the lapping compound and see if it'll stay put with out the key
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Dec 29, 2017 12:42:21 GMT -5
Guy brought a 2011 Taotao 49cc in this morning. The key way slot is shot on both flywheel and the crank. I know it would have to be precise, but has anyone ever tried to make a new groove on either the crank and/or flywheel? Or drilling a small hole through each and using cotter pin to fit tight. I know it's never the best idea to be drilling/welding/grinding but the crank will have to be replaced at some point now. He don't have the funds to get both pieces new and replace, trying to get him on the road temporarily till he can.
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Dec 29, 2017 11:59:41 GMT -5
Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever tried the gas vapor setup on there scooter. The ideas been around for a while. Was watching project farm on YouTube (excellent videos from this guy if you've never watched) and thought about trying same idea on a stock 50 4t. Obviously don't really need to do it for added fuel mileage on one given 70-80mpg stock, but wondering what the results might be. youtu.be/IuGWHfWqWtg
|
|
|
Post by km4nxa on Dec 29, 2017 11:42:51 GMT -5
I know you've in a round about way bypassed the petcock, but really need to try doing away with it all together. Straight hose from bottom of tank to filter to carb. If it still has same issue, just go straight from tank to carb, bypassing filter. If still same after that, I'd replace the fitting that threads directly in tank. There's a small screen located on it. Maybe some weird situation going on with that. Doesn't make much sense if so but seen weirder things happen. Eliminate each variable one at a time.
|
|
|
air ride
Dec 26, 2017 17:04:30 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by km4nxa on Dec 26, 2017 17:04:30 GMT -5
Engine parts or air suspension?
|
|