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Post by peascreek on Oct 28, 2017 17:21:36 GMT -5
I've talked to one of the dealers up north he has a couople '15s he's willing to deal on, but I'll wait to see what what the new belt and sliders do, might make me fall in love with it again. Sad thing is there was a company that made a 300cc BBK and some other performance parts for the People S 250 but they apparently went buh bye. I found a kit, but with no support or replacement parts not going down that road.
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Post by peascreek on Oct 28, 2017 0:22:05 GMT -5
We hit a skunk, that's my story, I'm sticking to it...
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Post by peascreek on Oct 27, 2017 23:18:58 GMT -5
Depending on how life goes, I might just be selling it in the spring and upgrading, really like to get into something that will will let me do some extended touring. It will bring a higher price with a restored body and I'll have less into it than converting to a naked frame. Lot's of wires and hoses would need to be dealt with to begin with. I'm sure I could lose a lot of the emissions crap but that can be a headache too.
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Post by peascreek on Oct 27, 2017 22:37:41 GMT -5
After we got moved in, I was finally able to perform spinal surgery on Hal, who as you recall had his spinal column severed as he sat on his ride when a canopy blew over on top of him, said surgery was successful, albeit he now has a slight hunch. No time to install the pond this year so no foggy waterfall, but considering we're the only house in the neighborhood so far in a two block stretch that did anything at all... Test run seems OK
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Post by peascreek on Oct 27, 2017 22:10:28 GMT -5
Got the rest of the body pulled finally, probably a big mistake, started thinking ya know, a naked frame... yeah, not going down that evil road on this one. I have to replace the front cover, front handlebar cover and the left lower skirt, all the other panels seem repairable and started working on that. For the gouges on the belt cover I sanded the worst parts smooth and then filled the remaining scratches with JB Weld, I'll work that smooth, then hit the whole thing with 300 grit and paint with VHT wrinkle paint and bake. For the plastic panels, I'll use JB Weld plastic bonder on the cracks, and the putty on the cover to build up the area to sand to match the radius. I'm still debating paint scheme, kinda flipping a coin on either satin black with some kind of stripe or flame in gloss black, or the opposite end, a high vis gloss yellow or green with a really loud accent scheme. s6.postimg.org/apxsvp6mp/012.jpg
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Post by peascreek on Oct 26, 2017 22:17:28 GMT -5
I use foaming cleaner on the really built up crud and some kind of purple stuff about $6 a gallon at Wal-Mart, 20 million different versions of it at any store probably. Been using the purple stuff for a couple years on a lot of cleaning tasks, the concentrated stuff will dull paint if your not careful, or if you want to prep for an overspray it works great too.
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Post by peascreek on Oct 23, 2017 23:23:50 GMT -5
go get a small rechargeable leaf blower and stick it in the intake
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Post by peascreek on Oct 23, 2017 16:46:17 GMT -5
My Kymco 250 will run 60-65 all day long and still have about 10mph left on the throttle, most I ever got out of a 139QMB with a 100cc BBK, cam and head was 51 and it was screaming for mercy when it hit it. None of the 150s I looked at would do more than 45-50 tops.
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Post by peascreek on Oct 23, 2017 16:33:24 GMT -5
My money would be on it restricting air flow at WOT
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Post by peascreek on Oct 21, 2017 22:50:15 GMT -5
This is the plug with at least 8500 miles on it. I adjusted the valves, 500 miles past the schedule, the intake was tight, the exhaust was pretty much on spec, compression went up 20-25 psi roughly as a result so there was an issue corrected there.
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Post by peascreek on Oct 21, 2017 18:15:30 GMT -5
I wonder why they recommend going with the 21g slider if the rollers are 20 if the conventional wisdom says use a lower weight slider compared with the roller, gonna have to do some more digging I guess.
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Post by peascreek on Oct 21, 2017 15:00:18 GMT -5
If you haven't bought the new OEM rollers yet, consider DrPulley sliders. They made a significant difference in my TMAX's performance and my experience with sliders has always been that they hold up well. You can probably find what works on a Kymco forum or maxi-scoot forum so you don't have to fool around with tuning. Good idea, I was just going to replace them with OEM, the stock rollers seem to be 20g, couple of the websites dealing with Kymco scooters and atv's say 21 is what I want with the stock spring, so I'll get a set of those on the list. Pretty happy with the performance all around so I hesitate to start going for quicker launches or trying to squeeze a few more miles on the top end.
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Post by peascreek on Oct 20, 2017 23:20:41 GMT -5
So I purchased this last year in December with about 5000 miles on it, after an initial issue with the carburetor, I've racked up a little over 8500 miles for a total of 13113 as I parked it in the shop last night after a last ride. I got the body covers pulled today as well as the clutch, variator and belt. The belt as suspected needs replaced, stretched and worn enough I've lost about 5 miles off the top end and the shifting is somewhat off as well. The clutch is fine, no signs of heating on the bell, a couple of the rollers have slight flat spots on them so I'll be replacing the whole set with OEM. The plug is OK, black, dry and a bit sooty, see nothing but the rich condition I knew was there, apparently that's a thing for this model. I'm running the stock air box, compression cold is about 140 but I'm not sure of the accuracy of my gauge, hasn't been any engine problems due to low compression, I adjusted the valves about 3500 miles ago, I'll do them again and replace the plug anyway. New brake pads and fluid changes all around should finish out the mechanical end of things. As far as the body, I need to replace the front cover, upper leg shield and the left lower panel due to cracks and gouges all the way through, the rest have scuffs that can be sanded easily, then repaint. I'm hoping to find LED replacement bulbs for the headlights, and replacing the silly small turn signals up front with a tear drop retro style similar to the OEM, and reconnect the built in signals on the front cover. Apparently they weren't DOT, so US models had to add turn signals to the handle bar cover and take the sockets out of the built in signals.
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Post by peascreek on Oct 20, 2017 22:45:37 GMT -5
Greetings from Fort Dodge, Iowa. The member formally known as Peascreek aka ratbob is now fool circle. Amazing what a trip to Colorado will do for your mental health now days and that's all we need to say about that. In between doctors and hospitals, my scooter has been my sanctuary in these fall days, and as we head into winter it will be my distraction as well. I've started a thread on the winter rebuild for anyone interested which will also included work to the shop eventually.
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