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Post by Elektrey on May 19, 2015 17:20:35 GMT -5
Looking to buy a new set of studs/lock washer/nut combination as I don't think these ones actually tighten down all the way (with how many hundreds of miles on it with it being that way? Yikes!)
What is the purpose of a double ended stud or the stud with the spacer part in the middle?
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Post by Jwhood on May 19, 2015 17:23:04 GMT -5
So it stops tightening,its sorta like a stop to let you know when its tight so you don't over tightening and break the stud off in flange
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Post by Elektrey on May 19, 2015 22:32:36 GMT -5
So it stops tightening,its sorta like a stop to let you know when its tight so you don't over tightening and break the stud off in flange your talking about tightening the nut onto the flange? the double ended stud then has to be specific to the flange/gasket and cylinder combination then right? If I can't find one meant for this application will a fully threaded stud work? or possibly a double ended stud where the "spacer" section is fully inside the flange/gasket/cylinder |
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Post by Jwhood on May 19, 2015 22:40:09 GMT -5
I found ace hardware has them do you have any of those near you in Florida??
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Post by Elektrey on May 19, 2015 22:50:44 GMT -5
I found ace hardware has them do you have any of those near you in Florida?? Yes those are the ones I've got but I don't think they go all the way in or are the right shape. They are double ended M6 automotive studs. I remember they had another length one so I was going to go and see what they had. Because on one of the holes the first few threads are stripped part of that unthreaded part of the stud goes into it. Best case would be a fully threaded stud. |
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Post by Elektrey on May 20, 2015 14:47:47 GMT -5
Well I redid the studs and I can immediately see that the one stud will not go in all the way like the other stud. Took it out and I could progressively hear the exhaust getting louder.
When I got home I could see the stud backed itself out a few turns causing the loud noise.
Looks like I'll have to get a thread repair kit.
Either that or maybe locktite the stud in so it can't back itself out? Any other ideas before I go buy a thread repair kit.
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Post by thatcrazyguy on May 20, 2015 15:16:21 GMT -5
Well I redid the studs and I can immediately see that the one stud will not go in all the way like the other stud. Took it out and I could progressively hear the exhaust getting louder. When I got home I could see the stud backed itself out a few turns causing the loud noise. Looks like I'll have to get a thread repair kit. Either that or maybe locktite the stud in so it can't back itself out? Any other ideas before I go buy a thread repair kit. I can tell you that a little extra loctite than you usually put it has worked for stripped bolts on mowers & lawn equipment for me in the past, but not a permanent fix and not sure how it would hold up in your situation. |
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Post by Elektrey on May 20, 2015 16:45:10 GMT -5
Well I redid the studs and I can immediately see that the one stud will not go in all the way like the other stud. Took it out and I could progressively hear the exhaust getting louder. When I got home I could see the stud backed itself out a few turns causing the loud noise. Looks like I'll have to get a thread repair kit. Either that or maybe locktite the stud in so it can't back itself out? Any other ideas before I go buy a thread repair kit. I can tell you that a little extra loctite than you usually put it has worked for stripped bolts on mowers & lawn equipment for me in the past, but not a permanent fix and not sure how it would hold up in your situation. Yeah thats what I'm afraid of. Don't want to ride around thinking "that bolt is gonna give eventually, but when...." www.ebay.com/itm/25PCS-M6-X-1-0-COMPATIBLE-THREAD-REPAIR-WIRE-INSERT-KIT-/281652563936?hash=item4193cd0fe0&item=281652563936&vxp=mtrThis should work, yes? I'm ok with waiting for it to ship here. the weather here has been pretty hot lately so i'm in not much of a hurry to fix yet hehe Also, what if I drilled out the current hole to 8mm and tapped it for M8 and then bought the following: www.ebay.com/itm/Time-Sert-56101-M6-x-1-0-x-9-4-Oversized-Thread-Repair-Insert-/271863023537?hash=item3f4c4c87b1&vxp=mtr |
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Post by thatcrazyguy on May 20, 2015 17:25:59 GMT -5
That first link you posted is a heli coil kit. Exact same tools it comes with! I paid 30$ for mine but it was local and I got it next day. Id go with that man!!! |
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Post by Elektrey on May 20, 2015 18:24:59 GMT -5
bought it, first time tapping anything hope I don't mess it up  Oh also since the new threading is stainless steel, should I also helicoil the other exhaust hole so its stronger? or is it just not worth it? |
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Post by thatcrazyguy on May 20, 2015 19:37:00 GMT -5
bought it, first time tapping anything hope I don't mess it up Oh also since the new threading is stainless steel, should I also helicoil the other exhaust hole so its stronger? or is it just not worth it? Take a good look at the threads, if they arent damaged I would mess with them. And just go slow, when I put the heli coil in my engine case that holds the cylinder rods, I fucked up bad but was able to re-dremel it and correct it. |
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Post by kevin55950 on May 21, 2015 11:33:55 GMT -5
Happened to my friend's tgb too. Pressure lock washers are a bad idea with exhaust studs, better secure the exhaust with 2 nuts and copper anti-seize on stud-exhaust side and some loctite on the stud-cylinder side. Pressure lock washers tend to crack and break the exhaust casting that holds the studs after some time on aluminum cylinders, or it pulls the studs out and break the threads, even if your helicoil is stronger, the pull from the lock washer will be applied on the aluminum from the cylinder.
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Post by Elektrey on May 21, 2015 13:09:36 GMT -5
Happened to my friend's tgb too. Pressure lock washers are a bad idea with exhaust studs, better secure the exhaust with 2 nuts and copper anti-seize on stud-exhaust side and some loctite on the stud-cylinder side. Pressure lock washers tend to crack and break the exhaust casting that holds the studs after some time on aluminum cylinders, or it pulls the studs out and break the threads, even if your helicoil is stronger, the pull from the lock washer will be applied on the aluminum from the cylinder. By pressure lock washer you mean lock washers like these:? ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/417OS7b2OPL._SX342_.jpgThose are the lock washer kind I am using. I think it was stripped because I originally had the exhaust mounted wrong and the flange was at an angle, causing me to screw in the stud at an angle and stripping the threads. |
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Post by Elektrey on May 24, 2015 19:55:57 GMT -5
Still waiting for the thread repair kit has got me thinking about how to improve top speed any more.
I'm thinking HP peak is at 9000 RPM and I'm reaching 54MPH at like 9200-9400RPM so you can see where if I had higher gearing I'd MAYBE get a few more mph.
The problem is I can't reasonably see gearing up. The tire I have JUST fits with enough clearance (like less than 1/2 inch) to not hit the carb, so any bigger tire for bigger gearing is a No.
Aftermarket gears are also a NO as any combination of available primary and/or secondary gears gives me something way too low like 6 or 7:1.
Improving HP also seems like a dead end as I've done just about as much to it as I can.
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Post by moofus02 on May 24, 2015 20:11:10 GMT -5
What is your factory gear ratio? The tgb Morini motors i have are 15:1. Maybe you could rub some of those with aftermarket to get where you want to be. Got a link for the gears you found?
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