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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 12, 2015 7:52:39 GMT -5
Let me pose this question, specifically to 90gtvert If the 4 pole stator doesn't charge as much as the 8 pole stator, I can replace my bulbs with LED bulbs and keep the same brightness but lower the wattage of them right? Replacement LEDs in the stock housing will likely look bright to onlookers, but the light cast out for you to use may be disappointing. They need a more focused housing than scooter headlight assemblies generally provide. I've had far better experiences with whole LED lights, but that would require re-styling to some degree unless you can find one that will fit in your current housing. I've been using the 4-5" diameter 27-42W spot lights. 27W LEDs put out quite a bit of light when focused properly. You may be OK with a standard bulb. When I did the smaller and lighter NCY stator/flywheel on one of my scoots I still used a 60W bulb. It was very dim at idle, but if I was cruising around at 8,000RPM or more it was OK. I did switch to all LED lights elsewhere. |
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 12, 2015 19:41:03 GMT -5
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Post by 190mech on Jun 12, 2015 20:58:16 GMT -5
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 12, 2015 21:21:52 GMT -5
that ad doesn't post to the US.
How do you install a new iggy system with the mounting system tapped into the case?
Yeah I just checked ebay and I couldn't find any from europe (one from UK was $108 shipped)
in fact checked a lot of shops all over europe and they all want $90-110 for it...
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Post by Jwhood on Jun 12, 2015 22:36:33 GMT -5
Damn why are they so hard to get and expensive
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 12, 2015 23:02:06 GMT -5
idk man it's really frustrating especially when u see loads of 8 pole stators for GY6 on ebay for like $15
you could try emailing parts@tgbscooters.us and see how much they want but it's probably going to be the same price.
if you can get the super thin wire coil off then you could take it somewhere to have it rewrapped for less than a new one, but I had a horrible time trying to remove the exciter coil.
I mean don't other scooters use this same engine and crank like the italjet formula and suzuki address etc. etc.
where are the stators for them? lol
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 12, 2015 23:09:39 GMT -5
Also sort of came to a conclusion on the 4 pole stator with 8 magnets vs 4 basically it will be passing twice as many magnetic field lines in any given rotation, but the field lines will be half as strong. The result: no difference, I think? lol. It however looks like the coils on the 4 pole stator are wrapped nicer and tighter than the 8 pole, also count more coils (more coils = more power) than the 4 pole. What do you think?   |
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Post by 190mech on Jun 13, 2015 3:55:42 GMT -5
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Post by 190mech on Jun 13, 2015 16:21:38 GMT -5
Here is another somewhat off beat but good option,,Switch it over to DC CDI,that way there is no need for an exciter coil,iggy runs off the battery,stator charges the battery!I tore down an Eton scoot today and the exciter coil area is blank,still uses the pulse coil for trigger..Would need a DC CDI box.DC coil and some rewiring..I'll keep throwing ideas at you till you tell me to shut the f up!!  |
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 13, 2015 17:05:52 GMT -5
Well I think the exciter coil will work if the lamp and charge coils work.
I might send them a pic of my stator and see what they can do...
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 18, 2015 12:26:09 GMT -5
Stator came in today, tested coils and got like 1.2 and 1.5 ohm for light/charge and 245 ohm for the HV coil.
Only problem is the whole thing is sprayed in epoxy so:
1) Incredibly hard to fit on because the inner circle surface is covered in epoxy
2) Screw holes are covered in epoxy
3) Magnets or metal or whatever on the outside of the coils are covered in epoxy and the epoxy touches the flywheel rotor.
Whats the safest way to remove this stuff without damaging the metal?
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Post by redneck on Jun 18, 2015 15:54:17 GMT -5
id try some sand paper and a razor very carfully
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 18, 2015 16:09:49 GMT -5
id try some sand paper and a razor very carfully thanks I've been using sandpaper but it still seems to rub and scratch the inside of the flywheel just a bit. might try a razor to see if it will just peel off idk. |
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 18, 2015 17:02:51 GMT -5
Ok so a knife worked, use it to "carve" the stuff of if that makes sense.
Spins freely no contact now.
tightened up the stator, put flywheel rotor on, tightened the flywheel nut.
checked resistance, still 246 ohms.
hit the starter and WHALLA, 60 VOLTS!
put the plug in the boot, grounded it and BOOM strong spark from the instant I hit that button!
I think I'm going to put off starting it up till tommorow because:
1) Have to figure out the tubing to hold the wires together, install shroud again, install flywheel fan, mount CDI again etc.
and most importantly 2) It's really really hot in the garage here I can't work on it for more than 15 minutes at a time without sweating all over.
I'm pretty confident it will work though.
Also, the resistances for the lamp and charge coils are higher (slightly) than both my 8 pole stator and the specs for the 4 pole stator, so I'm thinking it's going to generate more electricity than the other one!
As always, I'll let you all know how it turned out.
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 18, 2015 21:44:57 GMT -5
What are those rubber sleeves that the wires run inside of called? It's not heatshrink.
Also do they serve any purpose? The new stator wires came sleeved, but the existing pickup coil and ground wires I had to pull out of the old stator wire sleeve so they aren't sleeved.
Is it fine to just leave them hanging like that? Gonna be out tommorow so I don't mind picking up some of that stuff if I just knew what it was called.
Also, I'll be fine running the scooter without plugging in the charge and lamp coil wires right? (besides the fact the battery won't be charging lol). I have to splice in a connector to get it to work and I want to leave this stator untouched incase it doesn't work out. (looks like it will though)
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