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Post by spaz12 on Oct 15, 2015 16:57:02 GMT -5
Maybe I'm stupid or something, but how do you search on Aliexpress? Because I REALLY want that triple tree for a Zuma. |
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Post by Lucass2T on Oct 15, 2015 17:54:38 GMT -5
Maybe I'm stupid or something, but how do you search on Aliexpress? Because I REALLY want that triple tree for a Zuma. I dunno...sometimes i randomly come across a pic in a google search which leads me to these kinda parts. This triple tree was one of those. But theres little info about it. Can't find this part anywhere else though...not even with other sellers on Aliexpress. And on aliexpress normally you can find certain parts with at least 10 different sellers...so it might be a fake ad? |
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Post by tsimi on Oct 15, 2015 19:06:22 GMT -5
That scooter looks brand new. It really does look that good. I believe you qualify as a pro Tsimi  Thanks spaz12! Took long to get there but I finally did it. There are still small cosmetic stuff that I would like to fix like a nicer rear shock and maybe a larger disc break. Paint the CVT cover black, that will be done sooner or later since the 5BM engine will be black.  I noticed two things about it just now. It has a disk brake in front. The Jogs here and in Canada have drum brakes. I also noticed that you did something between the first set of pictures and this set of pictures. I'm wondering if it's photoshoped or if it's real? Yeah, both my Jogs have disk brakes. Stock Yamaha. Even today some of those 4stroke Jogs have disc brakes. Either the Jog ZR or the Jog Deluxe. The second thing, yes photoshoped. I cannot drive around with such a number plate. Would be cool though. Do either you or Lucass2T know if that setup will swap over to the prebug Zuma's? I believe there are several guys here on the forum and in 'merica that would like to know the answer to this. I haven't researched yet what the diameter of the fork tubes on the prebug are yet, but I believe that they are 30mm. I think that there are possibilities here.... They are also called BWs here in Japan and they become more and more popular but they are expensive compare to other Scooters. To be honest I don't know nothing about the BWs aka Zuma except that it is a Yamaha and it is popular in the US. If you need me to measure something just tell me anytime and I get those numbers for you. Disc size? Caliper bolt distance? Fork leg diameter? |
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Post by spaz12 on Oct 15, 2015 19:24:23 GMT -5
I'm really not all that concerned Tsimi. I just think about stuff like that a lot, but I doubt that I'll ever own one of the prebug (bw's) Zuma's. Their cool and all but my heart is more set on the Jog RR, or a Piaggio Zip if I have the money. I'm just daydreaming |
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Post by spaz12 on Oct 15, 2015 19:24:36 GMT -5
Maybe I'm stupid or something, but how do you search on Aliexpress? Because I REALLY want that triple tree for a Zuma. I dunno...sometimes i randomly come across a pic in a google search which leads me to these kinda parts. This triple tree was one of those. But theres little info about it. Can't find this part anywhere else though...not even with other sellers on Aliexpress. And on aliexpress normally you can find certain parts with at least 10 different sellers...so it might be a fake ad? That's a bummer  |
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Post by snopro315 on Oct 16, 2015 8:05:08 GMT -5
Yes, and I have the perfect subject to show you guys the results between before and after with Wipe New. It's some good stuff. |
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Post by thatcrazyguy on Nov 12, 2015 9:47:15 GMT -5
What spray paint, primer, and clear coat is recommended for scooter panels?
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Post by spaz12 on Nov 12, 2015 13:27:15 GMT -5
I'm really not all that concerned Tsimi. I just think about stuff like that a lot, but I doubt that I'll ever own one of the prebug (bw's) Zuma's. Their cool and all but my heart is more set on the Jog RR, or a Piaggio Zip if I have the money. I'm just daydreaming ...and just a few days after this statement I got a baby Zuma |
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Post by tsimi on Nov 12, 2015 23:50:47 GMT -5
thatcrazyguyEven if I tell you what "I" used you won't get the same cans over there. I think Rostoleum is a popular brand in your country? Besides the maker of the color and clear coat the prep work is important and the steps between the coats. - Never rush or hurry things. - Work precise and clean it will show later in the results. - If something should go wrong let it dry first and then sand it down and redo again. - When wet sanding, use warm water with a bit soap in it. - Prepare enough material like sand paper (at least grid: 240, 400, 600, 800, 2000), color cans and clear coat cans. (I once rushed one piece because I thought I run out of color and I messed it up.) - Never spray paint inside a closed room or garage. - Maybe a face mask?
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Post by tsimi on Feb 13, 2016 7:26:10 GMT -5
Some of you might know already I had recently an encounter with an older Lady and her car. She hit my front plastic while she was going backwards with her car. Lucky she was not driving too fast and lucky my plastic did not crack or break. If you also have to fix or repaint some of your parts then please do not use newspaper to wrap the area that you don't want to paint. I used newspaper and unfortunately some of the paint got on it and the printing of the newspaper was transfered on the plastic and I was not able to remove it without sanding it down. So use something else like thin vinyl or just masking tape only. Also when you do the masking of the areas that you don't want new paint and clear to go on make sure you keep 8-10 inch space around the damaged to paint area it will make the gradation from new to old lot more easier and nicer. Here some before/after images     |
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Post by Raizer on Feb 13, 2016 8:48:54 GMT -5
Looking good!
Haven't seen it mentioned in this thread, but Prepsol aka wax and grease remover and tack cloths are your friends.
I'm considering giving my Suzuki plastics a quick squirt one day soon, just trying to find the motivation as I hate sanding and haven't touched my spray guns in years.
If I do I'll post up some info and pics on a 2k base metallic spray job with a pearl.
Fighting the urge to go ott metal flake haha
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Post by tsimi on Feb 13, 2016 10:13:52 GMT -5
Raizer You have a spray gun?! Awesome, wish I had one. I did all with rattle spray cans. Sand down the plastics is the biggest PITA (pain in the  ) Once that's done it is rather easy and straight forward. You also need patience, let the stuff dry every time after each coat. Here is how I did it with the rattle cans. You might not need to do that much wet-sanding though with your spray gun. Always wet sand with warm soap water First you need to get rid of the stock paint using 240-320 grid, that is probably one of the hardest things to do in this whole process. Use filler in case of deep scratches. 1-2x base coat....let it dry and then wet sand with 600 or 800 grid more finer more better results Then 2-3 coats of color, wet sand with 1000-2000 grid in between coats. 2-3 coats of clear, wet sand with 2000-3000 grid in between. Then wet sand the last coat of clear with the finest grid you got 2000-3000 to get some sort of mat-ish look and then go at it with rubbing compound. Rub, rub, rub and rub until your shoulder hurts and always wipe the compounded area with a dry cloth in between. I am sure you will get far better results with a spray gun. Good luck and don't be afraid of making mistakes. If anything should go wrong just wet-sand it again and re-do it.
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Post by Raizer on Feb 13, 2016 11:00:54 GMT -5
Yeah unless they have gone walk about with some of my other missing tools I've got 2 guns packed away in my shed somewhere, 1.8 tip primer gun and a 1.4 tipped over for base/clear, both cheap guns but they do the job.
I haven't touched a spray gun in years so I'm no doubt going to be super rusty!
My plan just roughly would be to key the stock paint back with around 180/200, wipe down with prepsol then tack cloth, lay down a fairly heavy coat or 2 of epoxy primer filler to fill any small imperfections and sanding marks, then do any filler repairs over that as needed.
Wet back to 400 with as you say soapy water, prepsol/tack, another 2 or 3 lighter coats of primer wet on wet, let dry then wet sand back to 400/600.
Prepsol/tack, lay down the base colour wet on wet, if I've avoided runs in my base I'll start clear coating, if doing pearl/candy it goes in your first coats of clear, as you'd know the more clear you do the deeper the finish.
Let it dry fully, halogen workshop lights help provide heat for a budget "baked" finish.
After a day or so it's time for a 2000g color sand, then a careful cut, polish and wax to bring up the full shine.
As I've said I haven't painted in years and I'm no pro so no doubt I've missed a lot of steps!
I hate sanding (I've got carpal tunnel syndrome so it kills my hands), but with the size of the plastics I'm sure it won't be too bad.
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Post by spaz12 on Feb 13, 2016 14:33:14 GMT -5
Sanding - Sucks
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Post by Senna1Rossi on Feb 16, 2016 15:39:12 GMT -5
BUMP
good read for everyone
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