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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 17, 2011 6:24:53 GMT -5
If you have a 1500 contra and can open the rear pulley with one hand like that, I'd be taking the TD apart and checking it out and also compressing the new spring vs another to make sure it's not a dud and softer than it should be or something. Doubt that's gonna be the cas, but it only takes a few seconds if it's out anyway.
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Post by Thebatman on Jun 17, 2011 18:58:49 GMT -5
hey man, thanks for the reply... Yeah, i had done that. Installed a 1000.. This carb tuning,etc.is what is getting me these days.. I dont get alot of time at once to play so i have to try something and wait till i can try something different. I wish i could see/ride a "tuned" scoot to know WHAT they suppose to run like.. Carb is nuts
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Post by Thebatman on Jun 17, 2011 20:07:19 GMT -5
I lowered my needle to the 2nd slot... Any and all spitting is gone but 3/4-wot is flatter but 1/4-1/2 seems allot torquier.. I did install a 9 series plug and have heard different ideas there. 1). gotta be lean if cooler plug helps. 2). You want/need to install cooler plug with bbk,etc. performance work,etc.etc. So with the 3/4+ flatness, could you down jet once and fix that??(it is alot cooler outside than the lat cpl weeks FOR SURE.) With the needle in the 3rd slot i would get spitting on de accel, certain rpms. It has a 6 KB? ? needle also Any input on this carb tuning??? Maybe one day i'll get it..... :stumped:
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Post by drawkward on Jun 18, 2011 12:23:11 GMT -5
This is how I check easily to see if I'm lean or rich on my MJ...
While riding WOT: I reach down and cover a small portion of the inlet on the intake. If it bogs - you're rich on your main jet.
Then I adjust my needle (which is usually set in the middle to begin with). Just gotta go out riding for a bit to warm it up. I move the clip up one notch - and do a few miles of testing (or less). I then move the clip back down to the middle, and down one more. Test. Go towards what ever direction pulls harder. Try cruising at 1/4 throttle or so and rolling on the throttle. That should let you feel those needle jet changes pretty well.
From what you wrote, sounds like your mix screw setting is too rich, and to compensate, you leaned out the needle jet (moving the needle down) which leaned the 1/4 throttle out, but also leaned out your WOT in the process?
Hard to explain. The more you change stuff around, the better of a feel you'll get for it. I think I can smell the difference now...
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Post by Thebatman on Jun 22, 2011 17:39:59 GMT -5
Guess what? I'M BACK AGAIN...... :no: Ok, I am finally getting somewhere on this carb i think but of course needing other opinions....... Installed a 120mj, 48pj needle in the 2nd slot Now i have more rpms AND speed at only 1/3 throttle..... My mid power seems to have split. some went on topend and some at 1/4-1/3.. I can easily runa new 55mph (gps'd)ALOT easier now, I am really liking this one.. BUT of course, the wot is still flat, At times you can "feel", the power loss, roll throttle back to 1/3, she spits 1or 2 times then hauls ass again.... It was suggested to me to downjet once more to the 115, that should bring my top throttle up to par..(currently on wot, you'll hear something, feel a loss at times with power, torque untill you roll off to 1/3 then its on.. Is there a good way to KNOW that your to lean before you left the drive???(if i installed a 115mj).. i had the 120 in before, was thinking a 122 would be better but of course then it was 90* +... Do you think the suggetion of downjetting once would work for the wot?
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 23, 2011 12:47:34 GMT -5
Hello guys... Well this thread has died out.. ;D I had a "major meltdown" on the ZX a while back of course, so she has been out of commision. I decided to play with the oem cyl. just to try and get her back together and mobile.. She definately won't be the same as kitted. Are not the the target numbers on duration the same on both a 50 and 70 cyl.? Which is ? ex..183-185 trans..126-130 boost..120-124, correct? I have 120 trans(i have 185 ex.,..120 trans,...120 boost) and cant afford the shop i used on the build atm to mill the bottom and/or the top. How bad will a 120 trans be? I have taken a few pics of the cyl. I went and "ported" the bottom at the skirt for better flow. It definately opened it up.. Since the cases had been done, figured i should do the oem cyl if going back on.. :confused: :banghead: I will post pics of the cyl. if anyone may be interested
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Post by 2strokd on Aug 23, 2011 13:01:47 GMT -5
Post some pics...Give it a shot. Got nothing to loose and your scoot will be o the road again.
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 23, 2011 15:20:22 GMT -5
Here is the oem cast of the cylinder. Figured i'd try and open her up a bit since i got to reinstall the oem cylinder... Here is one side opened up.... Here you can see the scribe mark i tried putting on to get an idea of extra metal. You may be a ble to see the boost post good here and you'll see it opened. You can see light on the other side of it all NOW. ;D... A little more flowable... :no: Here is what i have now with durations at Ex..185* Trans..120-122* Boost.. 120* There is no way i'll be able to use the oko 24mm i was using is there?.. The cyl.,etc. just to small i think. I hope i can get it fired again even if oem. I miss my z, she been out of commision for awhile now. Any input is as always greatly appreciated.. :thumb:
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 23, 2011 19:49:02 GMT -5
Post some pics...Give it a shot. Got nothing to loose and your scoot will be o the road again. :scared: It'd be nice for sure to get it right.. Gotta remember i gotta install crank bearings AGAIN. :scared: :doh: I coulda probably cut out alot more on the cylinder, but i'm not sure of the limits, to go .. It's crazy, I do THINK i have the porting,timing/durations,(do plz correct me if i am wrong!!! :thumb: ) down but for some reason i just can't grasp the "fine tuning", BUT of course i have never gotten to ride other "tuned" scoots to compare MY "tuning", I gotta be close i THINK but don't know HOW close. Should have "mastered" it all by now. :no: (which i think i have mentioned before :stumped: )
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Post by 190mech on Aug 24, 2011 4:31:53 GMT -5
Port work looks good!Durations should run well too.Heck,I'd give the big carb a try,it might do great!
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Post by 2strokd on Aug 24, 2011 5:25:04 GMT -5
Looks great man! Good work :thumb: :wtg: . If you decide you want to raise the trans duration some, you can always file some off your piston to get the numbers a bit higher .
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 24, 2011 11:50:42 GMT -5
Nice job on the porting!
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 24, 2011 12:02:13 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Now if i could just grasp the "dialing" i'd be ok.. :confused: Kindof nervous to try these bearings again. :paranoid: There are 3 tools(blind puller,crank installer/seperater,?(done forgot :stumped: )) i need and i'd be ALOT better on the tools i think. Hopefully the heat/cold method will work better for me. :dunno:
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 24, 2011 13:31:02 GMT -5
Well guys, i guess this "build type thing" is put back in the floor just as soon as it was put on the "table".. I JUST THOUGHT the bearings were bad. I went and split the cases a bit ago and look what i found.. it wasn't the bearings. :no: HOW IN THE HELL could that have happened?.. I know, i know... TOOOOO much power. :burnout: :wheelie: ..... :rofl: It's a pretty darn clean break too.. That there just BLEW my mind.. Not only did i destroy the bbk, i also BROKE the crank in half.. Yep, i guess it was a "complete meltdown". :no:
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 24, 2011 13:32:45 GMT -5
I guess lukes signature is very true....lmao
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