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Post by tsimi on Feb 28, 2016 17:53:32 GMT -5
Something else is wrong...you're overseeing something or aren't able to detect something. Backtracking your steps resulted in nothing...so try new things or just ditch the tach and stop focussing too much on that. That tach is messing with your brain. Just ditch it and tune on feeling. Yeah, you're probably right. spaz12Towards the airbox. Got you! Of course towards the engine.
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Post by spaz12 on Feb 28, 2016 19:34:38 GMT -5
Got me
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Post by tsimi on Feb 29, 2016 18:59:27 GMT -5
Yesterday I installed the red racing cdi again and went to work today. Now I know clearly what the difference between the normal blue and the red racing is. The racing cdi raises the rpms earlier/faster so that you can reach a high powerband at an earlier stage. Driving wise it kinda feels like driving with harder clutch springs. Correction: driving wise like driving with a bit too light roller weights.
For my current setup this is a bit overkill. Maybe better for those that use a Stage6 Rep pro pipe? However I met the Monster Jog guy yesterday and he will borrow me 2 racing pipes for testing. He also owns a cheap china tacho which I can borrow too to check the rpm issue. Maybe putting one of those racing pipes in combinaton with that red cdi might be a perfect match? Or even add stiffer clutch springs for a better kick at the start?
I am very satisfied with the Polini Evo variators performance in daily traffic. It has a very nice response feeling and it just drives very smooth with it.
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Post by tsimi on Mar 2, 2016 9:05:37 GMT -5
Something off-topic again. Here some images and a video of another store. This store does not sell used stuff only new stuff. Tuning, Clothing and anything that has to do with bikes/scooters. Shocks, Carbs, BBKs....and lot more.Variators, CDIs, Roller Weights, Clutch springs....and lot more.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 2, 2016 9:26:41 GMT -5
I'm not sure if that's a scooter addicts dream or nightmare. Great having all those parts right there, but good luck keeping a bank balance with that kind of temptation at your fingertips.
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Post by tsimi on Mar 2, 2016 19:17:03 GMT -5
Yeah tell me about it. I have stores here then stores online. It is hard to resist sometimes. For those that haven't realized it. There are 2 carbs inside the show window, both genuine Keihin, one 24mm and one 20mm. Both go for around $120 each. Including matching throttle wire. The 20mm is very tempting...
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Jog-Mania
Mar 4, 2016 18:50:45 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by tsimi on Mar 4, 2016 18:50:45 GMT -5
I know I should let this go and tune by feeling but it just won't get out of my head, it's bugging me. The max rpm issue I mean. I have a new tach that I could borrow and I will install it today and see, but what if the result is same? Is it possible that the carb doesn't let enough fuel and air through the carb and therefore limiting my max rpms? With the AN parts I had a 95 MJ now with the AU stuff I am down to a 90 MJ. Maybe stock airbox without snorkel doesn't cut it out anymore? Drill more holes maybe? I am even considering to put back the AN parts into the carb to see what would happen. Could a clogged pipe cause something like that?
Other question, to all the 2T Sport grade BBK guys out there. What are your rpms at WOT?
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 4, 2016 19:15:32 GMT -5
I understand your frustration. You should put the other carb parts back in, if for nothing but to satisfy your curiosity!
IMO as far as your theory about not enough gas and air I doubt it. There are guys here that know so much more about these things than I do though.
My 5BM with a no name 70cc sport BBK and a Next-R pipe has never reved past 9500 - 9800 to my knowledge. I always thought that it was because of the stock metal reed block, but I have never tested that theory.
I know you had yours up above 10K at one point so who knows what happened. I have learned that the pipe and your durations will make or break you depending on what you are trying to accomplish. Some here make it look/sound easy to work on these 2t's, but I can tell you it has never been easy for me. I am a slow learner.
Good luck with this bro.
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Post by Raizer on Mar 4, 2016 19:20:28 GMT -5
So far I've not hit higher than about 9200rpm with my Malossi sport/Next-R combo, but I'm pretty sure that's down to variator weight tuning.
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Post by spaz12 on Mar 4, 2016 19:25:10 GMT -5
"Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly."
Seems to me to be your problem is this quote was taken seriously by your angel. Looks like you'll have to go to a 4T
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Post by 'O'Verse on Mar 4, 2016 19:45:22 GMT -5
I would be in that store so often my head would spin... Yamaha jog 100cc..... In between 8500-9200rpm. Hondayama 70cc..... 10000-12000rpm
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Post by tsimi on Mar 4, 2016 20:51:21 GMT -5
Thanks for the input guys. Looks like you'll have to go to a 4T Never! No 4T for me. I rather drive a bicycle before I drive a 4T. Looks like I am gonna need to have a chat with my guardian angel then. lol
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Post by spaz12 on Mar 4, 2016 21:11:12 GMT -5
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Post by tsimi on Mar 4, 2016 21:23:29 GMT -5
oldgeek Very frustrating indeed. If I could understand why it is not revving past that point then I would probably accept it and close the case but it doesn't make any sense thus far. I have tried 3 different reed blocks, different CVT settings, different CDIs, different airfilter sponges all combinations give me the same result. There is one thing that makes me think that the tach might be the issue. Usually when you go down hill it should rev higher, in my case up to 10000rpm but it doesn't move past the 8000-8200rpms point which is kinda weird so I hope that the test tach that I got will tell me different. Frustrating it is...
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Post by spaz12 on Mar 4, 2016 21:34:41 GMT -5
Your last statement would make a person believe that it's the tach.
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