|
|
Post by paceneedsstides on Apr 18, 2016 12:10:51 GMT -5
06jog I have the same tach for same price but from amazon not alli lol. DO NOT cut back the insulation just wrap the wire around the plug wire as is I used electrical tape to secure mine. Have over 70 hours on mine in the last 2 months and works great just wish it had an option to stay lit not just when you pressed a button
|
|
|
|
Post by tsimi on Apr 19, 2016 5:52:47 GMT -5
Got the guide pins today and now I am ready to do this. Put the bearings into the freezer and as soon they are cold enough I'll start heat up the cases and drop in the bearings.    |
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on Apr 19, 2016 9:00:44 GMT -5
why do you have milka bars in the freezer?  |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Apr 19, 2016 10:07:21 GMT -5
why do you have milka bars in the freezer? You can eat more chocolate before getting full if you freeze it first to shrink it. tsimi is probably in the sauna ATM trying to get the expansion effect going on his belly. This stuff doesn't just work on scooters. |
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on Apr 19, 2016 11:56:44 GMT -5
Than all the scooter stuff probably has gotten to his head!
|
|
|
|
Post by tsimi on Apr 19, 2016 19:37:58 GMT -5
This is a page that I have bookmarked for quite some while now. www.scootertune.com/yamaha/keisiki.htmwww.scootertune.com/yamaha/3wftune2.htmAll you need to know about Yamaha, mostly Jogs, is in there. Drives boss sizes, clutch spring comparison, differences regarding intakes and lot more.... Also a list of probably all Jogs ever released. Very interesting are the 7.2bhp types. I know it's all in Japanese but I think you all can read specs. Or just use a translator if you want to know more... |
|
|
|
Jog-Mania
Apr 20, 2016 0:57:58 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by Lucass2T on Apr 20, 2016 0:57:58 GMT -5
Awesome Tsimi! Always like those super basic but info loaded websites.
|
|
06jog
Scoot Member
2006 Yamaha Jog
Posts: 86 
Location: Sydney
|
Post by 06jog on Apr 20, 2016 2:44:03 GMT -5
06jog I have the same tach for same price but from amazon not alli lol. DO NOT cut back the insulation just wrap the wire around the plug wire as is I used electrical tape to secure mine. Have over 70 hours on mine in the last 2 months and works great just wish it had an option to stay lit not just when you pressed a button Hi
I installed the new Tacho today after work. I tried it first by just wrapping the lead around the coil/plug lead. It works fine wrapped around 2 times. So I then pulled all the panels and under seat off so I could feed the cable through. I cam up a little short the first time and after running the cable in a more direct route it was fine. I ended up wrapping it 3 times and tying off then ducted taping over so it holds firm and does not come loose. The bike idles at about 1500rpm and the clutch engages at about 3800-4000rpm. I went for a quick test ride as you do. Max rpm was about 10500. It seems to shoot to 6300-6500rpm and hold all the way to about 50-60kph and then the revs start to climb further. While going up a couple hills the speeds starts to slow but the rev hold for a while then start to drop. I should try to mount the iphone for GPS speed next to the tacho and then try and film with a gopro to show you guys. Anyway I can not start to install the new belt as this one is slipping and put on the new Malossi multi vari.
Thank You
|
|
|
|
Post by tsimi on Apr 20, 2016 3:59:38 GMT -5
Lucass2T I am currently doing some research on the older, stronger Jogs. According to the guys here in Japan those old Jogs were wheelie machines in stock condition and I want to know why. What parts did they install? So I am creating an Excel list with comparison data. Those 7.2 hp Jogs were the most strongest and I want to see what parts they used and compare to mine. I have a Vario rear face from such an old Jog, bought it for $3 and the drive boss seems to be larger. 20.95mm outer and 13mm inner diameter while mine is stock 18mm and 13mm. Also the drive boss length seems to be different so is the clutch, 3 shoe mine is only 2 shoe. Possibly also stiffer clutch springs but my research will reveal all the facts. The 5BM engine case doesn't have space for a Malossi OR complete kit so I have to get the best out of it with the parts that I can fit. 06jog The rpms seem to be correct. Now you will enjoy tuning your Jog because now you see where you gain or loose performance. New belts tend to slip a bit the first few km. Did you try to use a stiffer torque spring? Maybe one above stock? 3% up I think.
|
|
|
|
Post by tsimi on Apr 20, 2016 5:08:57 GMT -5
BEARING INSTALL TAKE 1 I kept the bearings inside the cooler/freezer ? (no idea what you guys call that) I heated up the smaller case for 10 min. with my heat gun. That thing got really hot just putting your bare hand over it you could feel the heat. Then I took the bearing and according to the videos I have seen that thing suppose to just drop right in. Well it didn't! It got stuck 1/3 in! I was like  f  f f f ... It got stuck good and I couldn't pull it out by hand. So I took my large driver and the mallet and got it out. No worries I did not use the driver tip but the large grip. So bearing installation is cancelled for today.  Now I put the bearings inside the real freezer where you make ice cubes and deep freeze meat. I'll leave them in there till tomorrow and give it another go. If it should fail again I'll just use the crank installer tool and pull the crank through the bearings first and then together into the engine case. You guys must have balls of steel to grind stuff of engine cases or install bearings like that. |
|
06jog
Scoot Member
2006 Yamaha Jog
Posts: 86
Location: Sydney
|
Post by 06jog on Apr 20, 2016 5:14:48 GMT -5
Lucass2T I am currently doing some research on the older, stronger Jogs. According to the guys here in Japan those old Jogs were wheelie machines in stock condition and I want to know why. What parts did they install? So I am creating an Excel list with comparison data. Those 7.2 hp Jogs were the most strongest and I want to see what parts they used and compare to mine. I have a Vario rear face from such an old Jog, bought it for $3 and the drive boss seems to be larger. 20.95mm outer and 13mm inner diameter while mine is stock 18mm and 13mm. Also the drive boss length seems to be different so is the clutch, 3 shoe mine is only 2 shoe. Possibly also stiffer clutch springs but my research will reveal all the facts. The 5BM engine case doesn't have space for a Malossi OR complete kit so I have to get the best out of it with the parts that I can fit. 06jog The rpms seem to be correct. Now you will enjoy tuning your Jog because now you see where you gain or loose performance. New belts tend to slip a bit the first few km. Did you try to use a stiffer torque spring? Maybe one above stock? 3% up I think. I am yet to put the new belt in. Still running the 15.5mm worn down belt. few things. how important is the paper CVT cover gasket. Mine is lifting on one side when I take the cover off and I think I will tear it. when I put in the Malossi multi Vari it has 16x13 rollers not 15x12. Will the weight of the rollers be similar currently 6.5g. Also the multi Vari kit came with a white contra Spring should I use it straight off the bat. Cheers |
|
|
|
Post by tsimi on Apr 20, 2016 5:31:21 GMT -5
My red Jog doesn't have that paper gasket anymore I removed it when it was coming off. My stock Jog does use one. If you drive on rainy days you might wanna get a new gasket if you only drive it on good weather days then skip it.
I never owned a Variator with 16x13 rollers so I cannot tell. And even then the Multivar might feel different when driving it and you might have to adjust the rollers. I have 3 different varios and all use different roller setups. I cannot drive them with the same weight.
|
|
|
|
Post by tsimi on Apr 20, 2016 5:34:58 GMT -5
I remember birdman saying something like "...use the crank installer to put the bearings on the crank". That is a genius move! I can just put them on the crank first and then use the same tool again to pull them together into the case. That would save me the trouble of using the hot cold method. I'll try to take a install video with my SJ cam. Stay tuned..... |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Apr 20, 2016 6:07:45 GMT -5
If the cases get hot enough, it really should be pretty easy to get the bearings in as long as you get them started straight. If possible, check temps and make sure the cases are at least 250F. Don't delay putting the bearings in at all. Take your time getting them started and wear heat resistant gloves so you can apply a little pressure if needed without worrying about burning your hands. If you aren't sure about temp of the cases, tere's always the oven option. It's easy to let them sit in there and be sure they're hot, but the downside is I'd prefer it being done to bare cases so existing bearings aren't baking or falling out and you either need the cases to be very clean or to not care about the oven.
If you think that is fun, wait till you try shimming the cases one day and attempting to get a bearing in there without moving and wrinkling a shim that's 0.001" thick.
|
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on Apr 20, 2016 6:32:33 GMT -5
Cases should be at least 110 degrees celcius, at least when they are 110 you'll have no problems dropping the bearings in.
You should drop it in straight. When you have it tilted only a little bit and the bearing touches the sides you'll get into trouble. You need to be really careful to drop it in completely straight.
|
|
f 
f 