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Post by tsimi on Apr 22, 2016 4:52:39 GMT -5
When is say with my fingers I mean pushed in without tools but a head red as a tomato.  It took some pressure of course but never that much that you need a mallet and socket to put it in. I am more worry about the CVT side that seal is really hard to get in. I'll order 2 seals this time just in case I mess it up again. spaz12Thanks |
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Post by spaz12 on Apr 22, 2016 4:56:11 GMT -5
Seals are one of my least favorite things to install. I've screwed up a few as well over the years.
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Post by Raizer on Apr 22, 2016 5:11:18 GMT -5
Seals are one of my least favorite things to install. I've screwed up a few as well over the years. Have messed up my share of them too! After having to redo a customer's cam belt on a 1UZ engine after a loose fitting cam seal popped out, I'm very cautious about loose seals now lol. |
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Post by tsimi on Apr 22, 2016 6:11:15 GMT -5
I read many times to not put the crank seal too far in.
Might be a stupid question but can you really put the seal too far in?
I quickly measured the seal height and I get 9mm then I tried to measure the height from that lip that Raizer talked to the bearing at the bottom and I get also around 9mm.
So....what's the deal here? I can just put it in until it doesn't go deeper inside right? Just need to make sure that it goes in straight.
There is also a tiny bit of the outer bearing ring visible I guess the seal sits on it once installed correctly?
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Post by Raizer on Apr 22, 2016 6:37:03 GMT -5
On my Suzuki engine you sure can put the stator side seal in too far, way too far!
Not sure with a Yamaha though.
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Post by tsimi on Apr 22, 2016 7:05:26 GMT -5
The stator side is impossible to put too far in on my Yamaha because the seal outer lip is larger then the hole. And I more and more think that the CVT side is also pretty the same as long you put it straight in and not uneven like I did. Guess I'll know more next week. Just ordered 2 new seals (1 spare just in case), they should arrive around Tuesday till then this engine project is on hold. More time to play BF4!  |
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Post by tsimi on Apr 22, 2016 19:30:47 GMT -5
Today I woke up and had an Epiphany!
I will get me some 40mm outer diameter plumbing pipe and use it as some sort of adapter and then use the crank installer once again to slowly push the seal in.
That is the theory, does it work in praxis? No idea, I'll find out next week when the seals come.
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Post by spaz12 on Apr 22, 2016 19:37:57 GMT -5
Brent made a pvc tool...
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Post by tsimi on Apr 22, 2016 20:37:25 GMT -5
Thanks for the video.
That "tapping" doesn't work for me it won't budge by tapping it.
And there is also this stupid colar around it where the starter clutch sits on which makes access to it lot harder.
But that puller tool is nice. Made it look so easy. I gotta get me one of those.
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Jog-Mania
Apr 23, 2016 1:51:16 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by tsimi on Apr 23, 2016 1:51:16 GMT -5
Can I hand hone a nikasil cylinder?
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Post by spaz12 on Apr 23, 2016 3:27:50 GMT -5
Yeah, use some 300 grit paper and make sure that you wash it out really well when you are done.
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Post by spaz12 on Apr 23, 2016 3:41:44 GMT -5
I just did it a couple of weeks ago on an Athena cylinder (that didn't really need it) and its running great!
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06jog
Scoot Member
2006 Yamaha Jog
Posts: 86 
Location: Sydney
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Post by 06jog on Apr 23, 2016 20:12:34 GMT -5
UPDATE
I changed the main jet from the stock 70 to an 80. I read that this should be a good place to start on Ped Parts how too's. I opened up the filter and replaced the element with the New Oiled Daytona Turbo one i had purchased previously.
Once all that was done and put back together i took off the old exhaust and put on the New Yasuni Z.
Kicked the scooter over which took a little longer due to no fuel on the Carb bowl. Let it warm up.
Adjust the idle speed screw to so that the scooter idles at 1500rpm - 1600rpm. I could not find and idle mixture screw. The one place i would have thought it should be there was a solid insert with no screw head. Anyway it idles nice.
Took it out for a test run. Boy does it have that district 2 stroke sound now.
I had a problem with it returning back to idle speed after running for a while it would idle at 4300rpm plus or minus 100rpm which was a worry as this its about when the clutch engages.
Got it home and turned it off waited for a minute and turned it back on. The idle was now at 2600rpm , so i adjusted it to be back to as above. Now it returns back to idle speed after riding. I must not have let it warm up enough after setting it the first time.
Now most of the new parts are on and running i can start to do some fine tuning such as
Roller weights, Contra spring, Clutch spring and plug chops to get the jet dialled in.
Top speed 73kph
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06jog
Scoot Member
2006 Yamaha Jog
Posts: 86
Location: Sydney
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Post by 06jog on Apr 23, 2016 20:20:38 GMT -5
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Post by tsimi on Apr 23, 2016 21:11:18 GMT -5
If you want to fill the carb bowl fast then just suck on the vacum hose a couple of times. That reduced kicking from 20+ to 2-5.
The stock Yamaha carb should have an air type mixture screw, meaning you can change the amount of air that goes through the carb. The mixture screw should be on the left side of the airbox connection probably covered by a black rubber cap.
Use a pick tool to get it out. You also should consider removing the snorkel from the airbox, on your filter off image the little thing most top.
Then you have to rejet the carb to maybe 85 or something around there.
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