Jog-Mania

[tsimi]

Here an image of the mixture screw without the cap.

[06jog]

Apr 23, 2016 21:21:15 GMT -5 tsimi said:

Here an image of the mixture screw without the cap.

I consider myself as being quite smart. But not realize the screw is capped off makes me think otherwise.

Thank you for the reply and good advise.

I was thinking that if the 80 was on the rich side I would try taking the snorkel off. Bike seems to run ok as is but I will still do a few plug chops. First with the 80 in then if it reads either rich or lean drop down or go up 5 say 75 or 85. Then order all the jets Inbetween to find best one.

Then again how much air does a little 50cc need. If I bolt on a 70cc BBK when a special comes up for a Malossi sports I will take the snorkel off then to help feed the bigger displacement with the stock carb until I change to a 17.5 or 19 dellorto.

[tsimi]

Sorry forgot that you are still at 50cc.
Then leave the snorkel in until you go 70cc

[tsimi]

Very busy today.
To my surprise the crank seals arrived today, on Sunday! That ladies and gentlemen is typical Japan. They work like crazy here even on weekends.
Anyways, I installed that stupid, CVT side, crank seal and this time it went in. I first pressed it in by hand as far I could then I used the 40mm pluming pipe and the crank installer tool to push it further in past that tight spot and then used a long M8 bolt with a regular hammer to tap it in gently till that point.
If it is really good or not I will see once the engine is mounted and running.
I also ordered this tool here just in case I have to ever remove it in future.

After the seal was installed I checked the piston ring gap.
Hand honed the cylinder with 320 grid and WD40
Installed the piston (currently a 10mm with a Stage6 step down needle bearing) as soon I know that the cylinder runs I order a Malossi 12mm piston.
Then I tried to find the right base gasket by checking if the ports are open and not covered. Ended up with the thinnest gasket I had 0.10mm. Then checked for squish and the best I get is 1.10mm.
I was always wondering if the best squish is 0.6-0.8 then why the hell they don't produce those kits that way that you only have to bolt it on and done. Can't be that hard is it? I sure ain't grinding of anything on a nikasil cylinder or the head. I will go with that squish and see how it goes. I am sure it will perform far better then my Polini Sport. Thinking about my Sport cylinder that must have a terrible squish setting I never checked it when installing it.
Finally cleaned up everything and torqued it down with 11Nm.
And what would this topic be without images, so here we go.

[tsimi]

I'm gonna build me a leak tester this week and make sure that the installed seal is holding.

[Lucass2T]

Apr 24, 2016 6:16:30 GMT -5 tsimi said:

Then checked for squish and the best I get is 1.10mm.
I was always wondering if the best squish is 0.6-0.8 then why the hell they don't produce those kits that way that you only have to bolt it on and done. Can't be that hard is it? I sure ain't grinding of anything on a nikasil cylinder or the head. I will go with that squish and see how it goes. I am sure it will perform far better then my Polini Sport. Thinking about my Sport cylinder that must have a terrible squish setting I never checked it when installing it.

Because not everybody checks squish when they install a BBK.
When Malossi would produce these kits with real tight squish clearances ppl can ruin everything the first time they take it for a spin. And then you'll get all these complaints about crap quality and bad products and all....

But you can mill the head down around the combustion chamber so that it falls into the cylinder. 

[tsimi]

Can I use more than just 6psi for the leak test? I have a hard time finding a gauge that shows that low pressure. 0.2MPa and upwards is what I find mostly. That's like 29psi+

[spaz12]

You'll blow the seals out with that much

[tsimi]

Wait a second what about the compresion test then how many psi do you get?
Wasn't it 100-180?

[Lucass2T]

Apr 26, 2016 1:14:33 GMT -5 tsimi said:

Wait a second what about the compresion test then how many psi do you get?
Wasn't it 100-180?

But thats compression on the head, in a closed space. The seals don't see that kinda pressure.
Tsimi you should look for industrial suppliers. 0-1 or 0-2 bar gauges aren't that rare you know... 

You can even try mailing those suppliers with a real sad story that you're working on a hobby project and can't seem to find the right gauge....they might send you one for free!

You can't imagine how much free stuff I got after contacting suppliers/wholesalers with such a question!
 

[tsimi]

Lucass2T

I see... thx for the quick explanation.
I found gauges but they ain't that cheap, around $20 including shipping.

[Lucass2T]

And what about pneumatics, hydraulics, plumbers', DIY parts suppliers?
I ordered parts for my leak tester on some random plumbers' supplier website, forgot how I got to that website tho. They had all these copper and brass parts and some (cheap) gauges as well.
In total i costed me something like €30 but the gauge itself was something like €5...

[tsimi]

I got all the other parts together except for that gauge and something to plug the exhaust port.
For the exhaust port I will create something that should not be an issue but I thought I should be able to get cheap gauges here but I tell you Japan sucks big time when it comes to DIY.

[spaz12]

When I did the compression test I got 130, which I figured was somewhat okay because when brand new the mhr rep is only making 150-155 psi.
I also didn't have it torqued down because the cylinder studs I have were too short.

[Raizer]

An old turbo boost gauge would probably be perfect? They go from vacuum to normally 20psi or higher.
Should be able to pick up a second hand one dirt cheap from somewhere there quite easily?