Home building 139qmb engine

[Florida Antique]

Wolf,
I agree on the Rust-o-leum. I started with that on my Aero refinish and no matter how much I sanded and cleaned and tac-ragged it would still pop and fisheye like crazy. Out of desperation I tried Krylon Fusion and that worked great. The only place I could get the Rust-o-leum to look good was on the metal floorboard pieces. It did not like the ABS body panels at all. Reading about it on the web, I think it was because of the mold release they spray gets into the plastic and that's what repels the Rust-o-leum. Krylon does not seem to have as much of a problem with that.

[wolfbat3]

I have been able to only get one of the three pieces to look alright so far but it was a lot of work. one piece I have to touch up on(fingers crossed). and one piece I think I have to start all over on. all before clear coating. tomorrow the new piece are due to come in.

[Florida Antique]

Hey be sure to read the directions on your can. Hopefully it has been over 48 hours since you have sanded. I learned the hard way. I wet sanded a piece that had been painted 3 days before and when I put the clear on it, it lifted the base like I had put paint remover on it. I called Rust-o-Leum and they said sanding releases the same solvents that are there in a 24 hour old paint. He said that the paint is not fully dry for 2 weeks. After then you can sand and paint right away.

[wolfbat3]

wow. really that is a long time for paint to fully dry. now I wish I had a paint booth/ heater.

[wolfbat3]

okay I have decided to change battle plan on the body panels that I started to paint. those are for future torture project. I will use them till new pieces come in but I am stripping the rustoleum off. I will paint them a color that I like for a future styling. Plus I think I am going to set up an ad-hoc body booth/heater in the basement. so it may not look pretty for a couple of months but it will be ride-able. body styling is my last thought right at this point. I need to get back to the motor build soon. ya know stay on task.

[Florida Antique]

Wolf,
What the Rust-o-Leum guy told me was to paint the base color 3 coats waiting 15 minutes between coats and then paint the clear 15 minutes after the base color. He did not recommend sanding the base color. He said if you do sand the base color, wait 48 hours to apply any further paint or clear coats. The Krylon that I used also had similar instructions on the can but I think the time between sanding and painting was much shorter. I did not sand the base coat and sprayed clear on top. I wetsanded the clear and then buffed it and it came out great. I spoke with a buddy who owns a bodyshop and paints customs. He said painting with rattle cans is very difficult because of all the prep work and how finicky the paint is. He uses urethane with a hardner and he said that it goes on over all kinds of surfaces and never gets a fisheye or a run. Of course to do that he has compressors and HVLP guns that cost big bucks. I have another friend that restores Model A's and he uses a $150 compressor and a $50 HVLP gun that he bought at Harbor Freight and he gets some pretty good results. Neither one would use a rattlecan to paint again and after what I went through on my scooter, I think I would have to agree. This is how mine ended up:

                            

[wolfbat3]

I have painted with rattle cans before with never this much issue. yep with autobody it is very different. I just never used rustoleum for nice fine work before. it goes on too thick, doesn't lay right and the wait times are unbelievable. maybe I am to used to different paints or spoiled by being trained as a body tech with autobody equipment. but say love vee it will all work out. it will be all good to have spare body panels. bodywork is always a killer.

[wolfbat3]

For paint I was trained on three different paint systems for autobody; Sherman Williams, PPG, and Velspar. Went to Wyotech for it in Blairsville, PA.