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Post by ermaganish1995 on Dec 22, 2015 19:56:29 GMT -5
I've always removed the seals on rubber or metal sealed bearings and cleaned the grease out if that's all I could find or they were significantly cheaper. I've always stuck with standard (usually unmarked, CN, between C2 and C3 somewhere) in the gearbox. The C3 should work, but I haven't tried any in there to tell you how much difference it would make. Alright, I supose i dont have much to loose but everything to gain then.  Also by any chanse, do you know if a open air filter would take more fuel in the fuel consumption if i'd remove the airbox? cause a friend of mine had a increase by alot, but then again he was running the bike WAY to rich, like a 115 main jet with open filter, meanwhile at 90 main with open airbox plugs, then the bike runs great aswell, so i think 115 is abit too much, maybe 95 main would suffice with open? im just abit clueless with it all I've adjusted the carb according to your videos and i've been really fine on thoese settings that you had, which was easy for me, without having to do all the guesswork etc  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 22, 2015 22:25:14 GMT -5
95-100 is more common with an open filter. Could be a bit different. If he's using a big carb, like a 24mm (stock 150cc carb) it may need a larger jet.
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Dec 23, 2015 23:35:18 GMT -5
95-100 is more common with an open filter. Could be a bit different. If he's using a big carb, like a 24mm (stock 150cc carb) it may need a larger jet. Hehe, No wounder his bike ran really bad like 115 in main jetting, carbon deposits like crazy and such; tho the 95-100 is for 50cc stock right? or should it work aswell with the 72cc kit? If i dont recall too wrong, the 72cc kit which i bought of a friend, he said that they send in a 96 main jet, which is if you have the original airbox with the plugs in, tho the same jetting with a open airbox/airfilter should be fine too right? |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 24, 2015 6:44:41 GMT -5
It should be close to that. Either way, it's nothing more than a baseline and you should always actually tune the carb.
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Jan 17, 2016 11:58:45 GMT -5
Is there an acutal way to adjust the automatic choke I wounder? I've just realised (kinda late..) that my choke never really seems to be closed or open sometimes, like i never hear the RPMS drop down after a few minutes of idle, it always was abit funny.. I was thinking about getting an " manual choke " but not sure if that's an good idea.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 18, 2016 16:26:52 GMT -5
I saw this video that shows that you can actually adjust the enricher by measuring the carb and the enricher when it's fully extended and twisting the body of the enricher on the base somehow but it's in Portuguese or something. I thought that it's another thing that could possibly solve issues with idle and stalling etc.. but I have never tried it myself. |
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Jan 21, 2016 8:17:51 GMT -5
@90gtvert
Awesome! thanks for the video, I'll get to check it about;
By the way, I saw your video about how to replace the bushing for the CVT and such, I wounder, Is there a possibility I may buy one variator from you with one of those Oilite bushings installed? I figured since it costs 70 USD for just one bushing including the shipping, the shipping beeing the major cost; Incase i could buy one from you and pay for shipping i'd bet that'd probably be alot cheaper.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 22, 2016 9:53:40 GMT -5
It's hard to believe you can't get a bushing. Before I paid a lot of money for international shipping, I'd look into aftermarket variators. Some of them have high quality bushings and the variators are generally much better designed than the cheap stock stuff. DrPulley is one that has an oil impregnated bushing. It was about $100 for me, but I'm sure there are others that have them. Don't put that kind of cash into a stocker IMO. I have a Hoca and NCY around here that I've never even looked at yet. They're just sitting in boxes waiting till I get around to trying them against each other one day. If you'd like, I can look at those and let you know if either of them have good bushings. Considering the size of the market over there, I'd have to imagine there would be plenty of variators available. A couple that are regularly cheap are DLH and Koso. Both of which I've heard members complaining about premature failures and cheap bushings. I think if I were to install a good bushing into a stock variator and ship it overseas, you'd still have something only good for a few thousand miles, that performs like stock other than reliability/longevity perhaps , and that costs more than a decent performance piece that you can probably find much closer to you.
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Jan 25, 2016 10:16:59 GMT -5
It's hard to believe you can't get a bushing. Before I paid a lot of money for international shipping, I'd look into aftermarket variators. Some of them have high quality bushings and the variators are generally much better designed than the cheap stock stuff. DrPulley is one that has an oil impregnated bushing. It was about $100 for me, but I'm sure there are others that have them. Don't put that kind of cash into a stocker IMO. I have a Hoca and NCY around here that I've never even looked at yet. They're just sitting in boxes waiting till I get around to trying them against each other one day. If you'd like, I can look at those and let you know if either of them have good bushings. Considering the size of the market over there, I'd have to imagine there would be plenty of variators available. A couple that are regularly cheap are DLH and Koso. Both of which I've heard members complaining about premature failures and cheap bushings. I think if I were to install a good bushing into a stock variator and ship it overseas, you'd still have something only good for a few thousand miles, that performs like stock other than reliability/longevity perhaps , and that costs more than a decent performance piece that you can probably find much closer to you. I managed to find only like three Variators that seem of good quality at online moped stores that are close to me, First option is a Polini " HI-Speed " variator ( POL-241,647 ) Second one is a Malossi Variator kit (Multivar) (MAL-511342 ) Thrid one would be a Stage6 Variator - Sport PRO ( S6-5813904 ) The first two are $76 and the S6 one is about $70, Its not terrible ammounts of money, but still rather high concidering i could get a variator from china for 15$ but then they dont last very long. Also the thing is I'd not know which one to take, not much is said about each of them, the Malossi & Stage6 kits have stiffer contra spring which might be good for the setup , the weights that are included that is. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 25, 2016 11:48:02 GMT -5
Those should all be high quality, and prob not comparable to something that costs $15 from China. Made in Taiwan like NCY, Naraku, Prodigy, and Hoca would be the middle ground between the two groups. I just can't see putting anywhere near the cost of a good part into a stock part with a good bushing. The main reason I did it to mine, is that I wanted to try it and I wanted to keep it stock just for testing purposes. Otherwise, I'd move up to a better part.
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Jan 25, 2016 12:08:31 GMT -5
Those should all be high quality, and prob not comparable to something that costs $15 from China. Made in Taiwan like NCY, Naraku, Prodigy, and Hoca would be the middle ground between the two groups. I just can't see putting anywhere near the cost of a good part into a stock part with a good bushing. The main reason I did it to mine, is that I wanted to try it and I wanted to keep it stock just for testing purposes. Otherwise, I'd move up to a better part. Ah aliright, Got ya, I guess I should choose on what I think would be best, I mean, I think i'd prefer the kits that has the contra spring and go from there, they all are more or less designed for BBK's, meanwhile the Naraku variators I found were more for the original 50 cc setup. Out of curiosity tho; Which one would you rather take out of the 3 kits? |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 25, 2016 12:59:14 GMT -5
I've never used Polini or S6 CVT parts, other than a fixed half or springs. My Malossi MultiVar is very nice. Based on that, I'd go Malossi... but I'm not going to pretend I know if that's actually the best of the one's you're checking out.
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Post by spaz12 on Jan 25, 2016 17:55:04 GMT -5
I like the Malossi too. The one I would avoid is the S6 that has the ceramic coating. It grips and performs really well but it's terrible on belts. Chews them right up.
Brent, love that new quote of yours.
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Jan 29, 2016 7:54:42 GMT -5
I installed the Malossi variator the other day, The 6 gram rollers and the contra spring along with my 1.5K RPM clutch springs seemed to be absolutely great, I got alot better acceleration, at 75 kmph, the engine were revving about 8000 RPM, before that would be about 10 000 RPM or more.., With the 96 main jet & 34 pilot jet it seemed great from the begining, i probably can manage to fix it even better but for now I cant be arsed, its great as it is at the moment, not much for riding weather with the cold rain and such, but its great to have my scoot back after 3 months of not riding..  Also i think i might go for a manual choke on my scoot, cause the 72cc does certaintly not like the stock enricher.. :/ |
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Feb 4, 2016 9:28:26 GMT -5
Hey guys, A friend of mine, who has a chineese scoot as me, when the engine is cold or such, well the choke, the engine goes up about 3400 RPM ish meanwhile mine does not go up high at all without me having to open the throttle allitle bit , does this mean that my electric choke might be adjusted way too " out " and might be closing off the choke part prematurely?
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