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Post by Fox on Dec 3, 2009 16:35:52 GMT -5
Thanks Shiftless! PM sent!  |
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Post by Fox on Dec 12, 2009 18:52:47 GMT -5
Okay, so I installed the parts I got from Reign and Shiftless and after some cranking I finally got the engine to fire. I had to put my hand over the back of the carburetor but it fired and revved up okay. It won't start cold for some reason. I'm using pre-mix. The rubber piece between the carb and the manifold may be cracked. I'll have to check it out tomorrow. It's great to hear it run finally. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 12, 2009 20:45:37 GMT -5
I was gonna say they get tough to start at this time of the year without manual choke, then I realized you're in LA. lol
You're on the right path. Check for leaks first. Adjust the carb to get easier starting if possible.
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Post by Fox on Dec 12, 2009 21:18:54 GMT -5
Yeah it's pretty cold and rainy here in L.A. I live on the up-slope of the San Gabriel Mountains at around 1500 ft. above sea level so we get more rain and lower temps than they get in the lower elevations. I think maybe the carb had some goo in it that worked it's way out.
I checked out the rubber manifold piece and there's lots of visible cracking on the outside if you stretch it by pushing on the carburetor. I ordered a new one and a set of mirrors from PFS.
I disconnected the oil injector pump from the oil tank and am using pre-mix for now. Would you recommend using the injector pump or sticking with pre-mix? If I stay with mix, is there something I need to do to the pump? Can I just leave it to run dry or should I remove it? I'm using regular 2 stroke weed whacker (50:1) oil in the mix. Not injector oil. Any thoughts on that?
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Post by shiftless on Dec 13, 2009 2:36:03 GMT -5
Glad to hear she fired  I'd start with 32:1 and use a good oil thats for premix , but I don't know a whole lot bout these mina's..... yet |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 13, 2009 3:05:59 GMT -5
I would definitely stick with premix. I'm not a fan of hoping the injection system is working. With regulat oil, I'd stick around 32:1, maybe up to as high as 40:1 with a standard synthetic, or 50:1 with AMSOil's Sabre Professional 100:1 oil. You should either remove the pump or the drive gear on the crankshaft or both. Never hurts to remove the reservoir and hoses either to give you more room to work.
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Post by Fox on Dec 13, 2009 6:42:52 GMT -5
Okay, so I guess I'm gonna remove the pump then or at least the gear that drives it. I looked in the .pdf manual and it says the flywheel has to come off to get at the pump. Is that truly the case or can it be removed with the flywheel in place?
Sorry if I'm asking too many questions. I just don't want to fu*k it up and the manual isn't written in the clearest English.
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Post by 2strokd on Dec 13, 2009 9:31:04 GMT -5
I think Vert got his out without pulling the flywheel, mine however didnt want to come out until i got the flywheel outta the way. Give it a try and see if yours will come out.
Glad to hear you got it up and running ;D
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 13, 2009 9:34:44 GMT -5
You'll probably have to pull the flywheel. No big deal though. Since you work on scoots, if you don't already have a puller it's a good investment.
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Post by Reign on Dec 13, 2009 10:19:22 GMT -5
You'll probably have to pull the flywheel. No big deal though. Since you work on scoots, if you don't already have a puller it's a good investment. I agree. I ended up not wanting to pay for a puller, so I made my own out of a half inch piece of steel. Drilled some holes for some bolts to go through and attach to where the fan does, and then made a big threaded hole in the middle to with a giant bolt with a V shaped end to tighten up and break it loose. I had all the materials already, so instead of paying $60+ for a puller, it was free ;D |
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Post by 2strokd on Dec 13, 2009 10:41:00 GMT -5
good idea!
I bought a puller only to have my flywheel come off in my hand without even tightening the puller yet. Ive seen people get them off by tapping the flywheel with a mallet and turning it. I never have luck with that method.
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Post by Fox on Dec 13, 2009 17:32:59 GMT -5
Okay so I managed to get the pump out without removing the flywheel and removed the drive gear from the shaft and reinstalled it. I also removed the oil tank from the scoot so it's going to run premix for the rest of it's life. I rode it up and down my street a couple of times and MAN OH MAN it's way more powerful than my 4 stroke. I got 35 uphill where my 4 stroke will only do 25. I'd like to keep it but I really can't afford the added registration and insurance plus it's way too small for me. My knees are right up on the handlebars.  I'm thinking about asking $450.00 for it after a good cleaning and a wax/Armor All job. It's an '03 model with 6000 on the Odometer. so maybe I'll get $400.  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 13, 2009 18:03:55 GMT -5
You could get ambitious and swap the engines. Then again, you could sell both and get a 2T that suits your needs better if you are willing to sacrifice gas mileage for power.
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Post by Fox on Dec 13, 2009 18:50:20 GMT -5
An engine swap is way above my pay grade. The electrical alone would drive me bonkers.  I prefer 4 strokes. They suit me. I'm more comfortable/confident working on them. Thanks a lot 90GTVert, 2strokd, Reign, Shiftless and 190mech for all your help on this. My girlfriend has been on me to put this scoot together for a long time. I couldn't have done it without you guys. Especially Reign and Shiftless. One last thing and I'll shut up for a while: The mixture screw on the left side rear of the carb only controls the idle mixture correct? Right now it's open about 1 1/4 turns. The more it's closed the richer the idle mix and vice-versa right? |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 13, 2009 21:30:38 GMT -5
It mostly affects idle and very low throttle openings. Turn in to richen, out to lean.
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I prefer 4 strokes. They suit me. I'm more comfortable/confident working on them.