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Post by triesandluth on Dec 6, 2015 8:59:11 GMT -5
Well, I'm still stumped. Removed all the gears, can't get the axle to budge. I'm not sure which way to go with it. I'm about to heat the bitch to see if that'll give me some movement.
My rubber mallet head keeps coming loose. It's about to get modded too!
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 6, 2015 9:19:35 GMT -5
And I seem to be counting up at a 13.95:1 ratio here. I was under the impression that these tgb came with taller gears. I'll check the r50x transmission....
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Post by moofus02 on Dec 6, 2015 9:25:30 GMT -5
And I seem to be counting up at a 13.95:1 ratio here. I was under the impression that these tgb came with taller gears. I'll check the r50x transmission.... I've got a couple tgb scooters. The one I checked figured at about 15:1 |
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 6, 2015 10:02:51 GMT -5
I just checked the r50x transmission. Good thing I had to swap, the gearing in it is 11.6666. Just looking at the gears tells a lot. The left is the possibly 303, in the right is r50x.  |
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 6, 2015 10:03:18 GMT -5
Now to get the axles out....
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Post by Jwhood on Dec 6, 2015 11:04:54 GMT -5
Just bang that thing out,the bearing is most likely gonna come with it,if you have a local motorcycle shop you should be able to find a replacement bearing there i wouldn't reuse the old one
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 6, 2015 11:32:41 GMT -5
I'm running out of weekend and my carport is a disaster zone. I'll have to come back to it, maybe try a puller to press it out, or like you said, give it hell and knock it out. Issue is that I am not sure which way to go. From the tire side through, or the cvt side out.
For now I'm just going to fit it with the taller gears and drum brake. The drum brake setup mounts the exhaust better anyhow. I'll need to fabricate a proper mount for the swing arm setup.
Now to move on to the window regulators for my girlfriend's car. She's already pissed at me, so I need to step away from my mess and try to work in hers some...
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 7, 2015 12:07:24 GMT -5
Well, the auto place ordered her the wrong regulator Assembly, so that got postponed. Back to the scoot, I've reassembled everything, new rings on the piston, taller gears in the transmission, engine on the bike (that mount bar is a pain in the ass), reconnected everything, and fired it up. Mega tapping! I had put a thicker base gasket in to bring the squish up, to the point that the ports are left with just enough room to open. I measured the durations but all just now realizing I did it wrong so I'll have to come back to that. I checked my squish and it was practically non existent. So, added another head gasket. Still good compression, ticking that remains I'm thinking could be a little piston slap. It's barely noticeable. One thing I do notice, there's no more horrible sounds from the stator side of the crank. It starts easily and has a great idle and throttle response. Took it for a spin down the road and it's handling quite well. A bit of an rpm drop after a moment, I bet it is shifting, needs a good cvt tuning. Pulled the rear caliper, swapped out brake levers and installed it and tweaked it to be good. Went easier than I thought. The center kick is too small, so I'm changing them out. I wanted to show y'all this mess. The r50x was leaking oil from a crack oil line when I got it. I fixed that and tried to clean it up some, but this thing was nasty! Looks like it was coated in oil then buried in sand. This is what I've dug off of the center kick.  And that's after I brushed the hell out of it and degreased it a few times! |
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 7, 2015 14:39:16 GMT -5
Slight downhill, holding it back at approximately 9250 rpms. I think my tach is off, possibly higher than it really is, from when I was messing with the cluster trying to figure out why the speedometer shoots to 199mph once I start moving. And the gas gauge saying full all the time...  I know my belt isn't riding up all the way in the variator, I can tell by the wear marks. I'm thinking of how I can fix that. The belt on this is good looking, but they're thin, stock. I'd like to find wider that's the same length. |
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Post by Elektrey on Dec 11, 2015 13:40:57 GMT -5
get a hoca variator
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 24, 2015 2:26:59 GMT -5
I started messing with it again the last few days. My squish was WAAAAY tight, even with two head gaskets and a thicker base gasket, running the stock head with the 47mm top end. The base gasket put the cylinder up to the point that the ports were left with little room to open fully. It was just barely different with the stock gasket. So, I decided to try something, possibly a bad idea, but so far so good. I don't care to buy just a head, I'd like to buy a cylinder with a heart included, so I decided to modify the extra stock one. I decided to file out 4mm all the way around. I used the head gasket as a template, marked with a wide sharpie, and slowly started filing. I took my time, kept the angle as true as possible, hoping to avoid causing a disruption to the way the squish pushed the fuel mixture around, finished with a good sanding to smooth it as good as I could by hand, then cleaned it up well with oil, then soapy water, then oil, then degreaser, then 2t oil. I failed to take pictures of it before reassembly, but it wasn't anything to write home to ma about. I have a much safer, less piston smashing head clearance now. It may have been okay before, but there's a wicked piston slap, I believe is that noise, and it threw me off. Anyways, I wish I knew if there was a way toremedy that so I could feel okay really opening the throttle. When I order a new kit I'll try to kill it then, maybe. I decided to give the cvt some attention. I'm really impressed by the stock quality of the cvt and such. Not just that it came with 11.67:1 gearing. The way the belt sits is superior to my super 9. It's all the way up the rear pulley, all the way down on the boss drive. The super 9 seems like it could use a few millimeters on the belt to really sit great for take off. Also, both the variator faces and the torque driver faces are larger than others. The variator side is 96mm, the torque driver side is 122mm. In theory it could have a better take off and top speed with the cvt tuned optimally. The stock variator construction seems to be of good quality also. It has the built in fan on the front face, and the variator itself resembles the polini variator I have.  The torque driver also doesn't have the horrible two angled grooves that any other torque driver I have has. I was glad to find that. Along with big good looking seals. The stock torque spring is nice and stiff. The clutch could engage a little later, but not too bad. I'm excited to see what I can do to help this out. I can tell that the variator doesn't get used all the way. I'm going to reread the tech section about cvt mods and see if anything looks like it could potentially help this stock variator out. If I can get the belt to ride all the way up then I'd be in business. One of the things that may help will be to try sliders to get a little extra push to the back plate. I'm also thinking of looking at shortening the boss drive by a very small amount. If worst comes to worst, I'll just buy an aftermarket variator, like the hoca elektry mentioned. I wish I wasn't smart and would just buy a bunch of stuff I've seen on scoottuning. Lol. But, ya know, Christmas, family, bills, food... Tomorrow I plan to put the stock air box under the knife. I would like to do it like my super 9, reduce any air flow disruptions, use much larger tubes to the carb, and try to utilize the snorkel type setup it had, just with larger tubes. With any luck it will act like the Super 9 and breathe almost as much as an open filter, without the noise and issues with water. I wouldn't mind the noise if it had the power and speed to back it up. Then again, I'm not sure how much it'll ever produce with the tecnigas pipe that's on it. It looks almost brand new. The issue I see is that the expansion chamber looks considerably smaller than the one on my super 9. I've read up a bit on how they work, but I still don't understand it enough to know if the smaller chamber is for a narrow or wide power band. Guess I'll have to read some more. I'm not too interested in buying another pipe for it at the moment. Okay, rambling done for today.... |
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Post by 190mech on Dec 24, 2015 5:25:07 GMT -5
Smaller pipe=smaller cc or low max RPM..
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 24, 2015 8:16:20 GMT -5
Would that be low rpm that is able to produce power, or like it pretty much hits a wall? I've opened it up with the pod filter on it and had to hold it back at 9k rpms. Not that it was pulling hard at that point, just that it would still go higher.
Just trying to wrap my head around this, like a simple explanation of Mr Bell 's chapter on pipes. I can read it all day, nod my head, and quote lines from it, but I still haven't got it yet. Like yeah, the shapes and sizes of pipes reflect the exhaust waves back at the cylinder to promote scavenging, that could increase output by efficiently burning and moving around the fuel mixture, right?
Or some such bull shit. I can say this is a lot less boring now that I don't think these things power is based off of pure engine size, magic, and kitten farts.
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 25, 2015 3:54:02 GMT -5
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 25, 2015 3:57:56 GMT -5
Now I have another problem. I've found A Polini Corsa for it, 130 plus shipping of probably 20 bucks. I'm having a hard time not clicking the process order button. My mouse pointer has been on it an awful lot tonight.
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1.5inch inner diameter. A quarter inch bigger than what I needed, but a little diagonal slit allowed it to squeeze in without leaving any large gaps. 
