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Post by tsimi on May 1, 2020 11:55:19 GMT -5
This is going to be a lot of fun in the summer. Let us know how you get on with the brakes. I want to upgrade mine. But I'm looking at over £100 just for a stage 6 or similar caliper! My setup didn't cost more than $70 Stage6 uses basically the same stuff just stamps their name on it. |
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goodkat
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 178
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Post by goodkat on May 1, 2020 14:35:11 GMT -5
tsimi, I was considering an RPM caliper and brake rotor for my project but I wasn't sure about quality. Are you happy with the quality?
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Post by tsimi on May 1, 2020 21:37:33 GMT -5
tsimi , I was considering an RPM caliper and brake rotor for my project but I wasn't sure about quality. Are you happy with the quality? to be honest I didn't drive around on the streets with it yet but just short around my block I didn't had any issues with it. Stage6 uses the same 4pot caliper just rebranded with their name on it.
I am not sure how long or well those brake pads last in there. I might swap those out with a more popular brand later just to be on the safe side?
I know 90GTVert uses the same caliper on his TPR 86cc scoot and he didn't complain thus far. |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 1, 2020 22:12:49 GMT -5
I've been very pleased with the RPM brake setup.
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goodkat
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 178
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Post by goodkat on May 1, 2020 23:04:14 GMT -5
I've been very pleased with the RPM brake setup. That's very good news!! What brake pads these calipers use? tsimi,thanks a lot!! |
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Post by tsimi on May 2, 2020 18:00:21 GMT -5
There seems to be a small issue with the caliper banjo bolt. It leaks brake oil. It's not much but enough to notice it.
I have the feeling that the sealing washers that came with the caliper are not good.
I'll have to drain the oil, replace the washers and bleed it again.
Will report back once done.
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Post by 'O'Verse on May 3, 2020 19:49:17 GMT -5
You could throw a little plumbers tape around the threads while it’s out. Won’t hurt. Just don’t use to much to affect the surface of the squash washer. I’ve got all my banjos Plummer taped up. 👍
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Post by tsimi on May 4, 2020 5:51:47 GMT -5
It's been 6 hours since I bled the caliper and so far no leak visible. I put maximum force on that banjo bolt. I thought it would snap any time but it didn't.
I'll check again tomorrow but I don't think it will leak anymore.
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Post by tsimi on Jun 28, 2020 18:44:46 GMT -5
New plates mounted. Insurance paid. Fresh high octane fuel in the tank.
And yesterday was the big day! After a bit over 1 year of sitting around and not driving i took her for a spin.
The good news, she fired up and idles just fine. At WOT she is a friggin beast. It's just crazy how much power such a small cylinder can output. Temps were good around 55-60C
The bad news, between 1/4 throttle and WOT. She sputters (not sure that's the right word for it) extreme and can't get the revs up nice and smooth. It's barely drivable. She kicks hard like she wants to go but something is holding her back. Kinda feels like riding a wild horse that wants to kick you of its back. But once the revs go up, she pulls like freight train.
I know it is not an Iggy issue because i marked everything on it the last time she drove good, and the markings are still aligned. So my guess is an issue with the carb, the fuel delivery system or spark plug. I'll have to take it apart and clean it.
But other then that she drove great and the front brake works like a charm and bites hard.
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Post by Lucass2T on Jun 29, 2020 7:29:33 GMT -5
New plates mounted. Insurance paid. Fresh high octane fuel in the tank. And yesterday was the big day! After a bit over 1 year of sitting around and not driving i took her for a spin. The good news, she fired up and idles just fine. At WOT she is a friggin beast. It's just crazy how much power such a small cylinder can output. Temps were good around 55-60C The bad news, between 1/4 throttle and WOT. She sputters (not sure that's the right word for it) extreme and can't get the revs up nice and smooth. It's barely drivable. She kicks hard like she wants to go but something is holding her back. Kinda feels like riding a wild horse that wants to kick you of its back. But once the revs go up, she pulls like freight train. I know it is not an Iggy issue because i marked everything on it the last time she drove good, and the markings are still aligned. So my guess is an issue with the carb, the fuel delivery system or spark plug. I'll have to take it apart and clean it. But other then that she drove great and the front brake works like a charm and bites hard. You'll need to adjust the needle, It's too rich. The needle clip might be in the wrong position. The needle itself might have the wrong shape. Taper and taper lenght might be off. Find out which needle is in there now and look up all the other needles that are available for your carb. Post your findings here and let's pick you the right needle!  |
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Post by tsimi on Jun 29, 2020 9:35:00 GMT -5
Hey Lucas!
Yeah, i'll check the currently installed needle asap.
I do have a few spare needles to try. Or i just simply could raise the needle clip one notch to lean it out.
To be honest i didn't do much carb tuning one year ago before i put her away.
Guess it's time to catch up with it and get it done.
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Post by Lucass2T on Jun 30, 2020 9:50:25 GMT -5
Yeah you can start by lowering it 1 position.
But thats also a bit tricky, to 'just lower it'. You might end up with a lean spot somewhere else...
You'll have to find out what needle is in there now first.
Lowering it might be a band-aid kinda solution and you would actually need a different one.
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Post by tsimi on Jul 1, 2020 6:57:27 GMT -5
So I took the carb apart and got the following PJ 50 MJ 150 Needle JJK (clip middle position) I did not swap the needle, that is the one that came with the PWK 28 Polini carb. The PJ is definitely rich and I would like to keep it that way since I do a lot stop and go driving. Same goes for the MJ, she is a bit rich. The temps at WOT are good with it and I would rather be running rich than lean on such a setup. I still got the following needles available J1 / JJF / JJH / JJK / PW24 / K44 / K46 / K50 / N80F / 3G9 / 6KB Here is a needle chart  From the chart I can easy read and understand the needles that have 3 letters stamped on it like JJF or JJK but I have no clue what size the needles are like K50 or 3G9. I believe those are OKO needle chart terms? Not sure though. Couldn't find much info about it. |
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Post by repherence2 on Jul 2, 2020 20:58:42 GMT -5
You could also install a Venturi Divider to help smooth out the middle thottle range. But i would try needle position adjustments first. If the needle adjustments dont get rid of the symptoms, then i would add the venturi divider.
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Post by repherence2 on Jul 2, 2020 20:59:07 GMT -5
You could also install a Venturi Divider to help smooth out the middle thottle range. But i would try needle position adjustments first. If the needle adjustments dont get rid of the symptoms, then i would add the venturi divider.
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