tuning an 02 beamer

[jmkjr72]

there isnt much to diy on ele
get out a multi meter and start looking for where you have shorts and look thru the wire harness
the fact that it is intermitnent and runs bad is not that the switch and sener are bad but you have a dead short

if the fuel sender was bad you could test that your self by unpluging it
same for the horn switch you could remove the wires and tape them over to trouble shoot it

[scottkooi]

I do have another question- is it possible to "baby" the motor too much during the break-in period. I didn't hammer on it from dead start and kept it under 35mph for the 1st 100 miles. Are you supposed to crank on it some?

[Bong]

Dude, IMO go get your scoot right now. This mech. has had a free ride on your dime for the past year!!!!!

These engines are really not that complicated (unless you make them) You don't need any type of classes!!!!!!

These forums have more scoot know how than any carb course or part replacer can offer. Some reading and asking a few questions will have you tearing the engine apart yourself by the end of summer.

Save some money, ask a few questions and have fun!!!!

I hate to see a person get screwed but, Pay the money and ask how to fix it yourself later if ya want.

[scottkooi]

Thanks Bong. I know I'm getting screwed, guess I was just wondering how bad. Lmao!

[Bong]

Just to help a bit with the "break in" question. NO!!! As long as you vary the rpm's your ok. The rings usually seat within the first few miles anyway.

Most of us are unable to "Baby" the scoot as much as recommended anyway thus the hard break-in theory

Again Just my opinion.

[reveeen]

I sometimes question the "break-in" thing.

It all depends on how your motor was assembled.
Drag racers assemble their cylinders relatively dry, I am not going to say they use no oil, but they certainly do not pour the oil to the cylinder/piston/rings like we've all been taught to believe is "normal". They (drag racers) claim a motor is broken in in about 5 seconds this way, and promptly go out and run it full out, until the next rebuild.
Most folks do it the traditional way, pouring the oil to the cylinder/piston/rings upon assembly. In a way "over lubricating" an engine from start-up, and prolonging the break-in period, probably a carry-over from times past when machining/manufacturing was not as accurate as it is today.
Personally, I would go easy for the first 100 miles, varying my rpm, with no prolonged WOT operation for the first 500 miles

[scottkooi]

Thanks again reveen, you're putting out a lot of helpful information, and I appreciate it.

[scottkooi]

Ok, I may be getting ahead of myself here, but given my situation, I feel like I have to be prepared. If you refer back to my carb pics on page 2 of this thread- the a/f screw is the one closest to the air filter, yes? The screw in the front center of the carb is the idle screw, yes? I asked my mech to up-jet my carb and he said he's going to put the biggest jet he can in it. If it starts to run too rich and fowl plugs like crazy, can I adjust the a/f screw to help that out at all?

[Bong]

Dude, Make sure you find out what size jet is installed. Pilot and main!!!! Or just check yourself unless the # is ground off again. You can fine tune it but, if you go to large the plugs will foul and you'll be taking it back to him in a few days again. JMHO. Do what you will though. 4 screws and you can look at the jets to verify what he told you was installed.

[scottkooi]

Going to make sure he writes down what is in there, he's also supposed to give me all of the parts that he replaces. I'm a bit nervous about messing with the carb. I've never had any mechanical experience with them and I'm really not even sure what is what on mine. Like ya say, just ask questions and do my research. I am totally not bringing it back to him. I think I'll burn it first.

[Thebatman]

:light: Burn it down....... :rofl:
Dude, i still ask ? constantly.. I actually am finally learning something.... :nana: Questions, trials/errors, "finger-fkn" parts, is what's needed to learn.. I jumped in with both feet and what a :stars: it was but it does all come together at some point. I have been printing stuff off left and right and still i :stumped: , It's all good.. Trying things out and then asking ? seems to help also, that way you can give a good detailed, better feel of things, post..The old saying "one thing at a time" does work.... ;D..(but of course i'm one to do 2-3 ata time and really be screwed up. :scared:

[scottkooi]

Ok, so we know that my scoot is running a touch lean. Is raising the needle on the pilot jet sufficient to cure this? Apparently my f-ing mech. decided NOT to upjet for me, and just raised the needle instead. I was supposed to get the bike back today(after 6 da*^&d days in his shop) but he isn't finished with it yet. 6 days to upjet and fix a horn switch and replace the fuel sending unit. Supposed to be delivered tomorrow sometime. Good thing it's supposed to rain.

[jmkjr72]

raising the needl will help richen it up depending upon where it is lean at
the needle has a very large effect on a good chunk of the throttle
but there is no needle on the pilot jet

[scottkooi]

Ooops, noob mistake. I think that it's too lean at WOT, but it doesn't seem to be too bad. I guess I'll just have to give it a run when I get it back, then check the plug to see where it's at.

[scottkooi]

Of course, the pics of the plug that are on page 1 of this thread are after 100 miles, with very little WOT-because of the "crackle" issue.