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Post by pinkflames420 on Mar 11, 2017 0:51:45 GMT -5
i'd hope you'd say that, its your design! Proof i been doin my research More specifically I like the paint brush and soapy water method. I don't like the carb cleaner idea since the rubber doesn't react well to it. Well mine doesn't anyways. |
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Post by niz76 on Mar 11, 2017 2:46:19 GMT -5
6 psi is as about max amount of pressure you'd want to put into your engine for a leak test so that 100psi gauge may be a bit difficult to read. Many of the gauges meant for everyday compressor stuff doesn't even start until 10psi so can be difficult to use with the such low psi we're working with for a leak test... Wow I think it's awesome that you's are learning so much and diving so deep into this 2t tech! I was just happy I got my first BBK running and the carb dialed in haha. It took me much longer to learn and understand about port timing, squish clearance manipulation, and leak down tests so KUDOS! Btw, here's a vid I made doing a leakdown test on my Vespa engine... totally different engine than our scoot engines but I use this same tester in the same way with my 49cc scoot engines... Thanks Niz! I always enjoy your vids.  And I appreciate yours and everyone's patience here because I really didn't know anything when i came here! This bbk install has and will teach me a lot, aswell as a new hobby! I will grab a new gauge instead of tearing them off my compressors lol. I can get one close by(surprisingly) Sounds silly now that I know the compression is set so low. Definitely go with^^^ Made sure my bike was running and took me awhile to file that dang nub sticking out of the port transfer. Wish me luck |
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Post by AtariGuy on Mar 11, 2017 11:38:10 GMT -5
Compression and leak down are 2 different tests. We realize you're thinking leak down pressure (low psi, testing for leaks in the sealing of the case halves, crank seals, intake/reeds, and cylinder/head).
Compression test refers to the high pressures the piston creates during its stroke as it would compress the air/fuel mixture up to the spark plug. Thats used to check for low compression problems (usually) like blown piston rings, a bad head gasket, or worn head/piston. High compression problems are a hard start, detonation (spark knock, pinging, or a sense of marbles rattling around inside your engine) or you use race fuel on your wheaties, rebuild your engine every morning, and love buying new cylinder kits and cranks often...
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Post by pinkflames420 on Mar 11, 2017 11:51:44 GMT -5
Compression and leak down are 2 different tests. We realize you're thinking leak down pressure (low psi, testing for leaks in the sealing of the case halves, crank seals, intake/reeds, and cylinder/head). Compression test refers to the high pressures the piston creates during its stroke as it would compress the air/fuel mixture up to the spark plug. Thats used to check for low compression problems (usually) like blown piston rings, a bad head gasket, or worn head/piston. High compression problems are a hard start, detonation (spark knock, pinging, or a sense of marbles rattling around inside your engine) or you use race fuel on your wheaties, rebuild your engine every morning, and love buying new cylinder kits and cranks often... Yes! Your right! I think at one point I got the 2 confused. The leak down tester should have all intakes/exhaust blocked off. Just checking that there is matter of fact compression. The compression gauge goes into the spark plug to check^^^quoted above, HOW MUCH compression...I guess I just need to forget about that right now. The gauge, well I think I'll need to look into that one a bit more. I think the gauge I was referring to is also in the higher up range. I have a ball bump, but no gauge on it. I'll have to go to the auto store on my way back from COFFEE CREAM RUN
I ain't doin this one without coffee   Ps. Should we create a new thread for after we install them? I honestly feel like I won't have any problems. I think it will start on the first couple kicks  (btw, tired of sucking on my petcock to get fuel to the bowl, might consider manual? Don't wanna put wear n tear on starter) |
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Post by AtariGuy on Mar 11, 2017 12:10:06 GMT -5
You probably won't -need- a compression test as long as its a new cylinder kit and the squish comes out right, but if you do still want to get the cylinder compression tester and try it, most auto stores would have a compression tester kit they would loan out or you could buy one for roughly 40 dollars. The dial indicator has a needle stopper built in to hold the needle at the highest reading it measures unlike the ones from a leakdown tester or your airbrush compressor dials. A good compression range would be 130-150psi as far as i recall, but i would have to go re-read some more and find that number range again to be certain. I remember brents project 90, he had compressions around 180 at one point which, when running premium octane, he was still on the verge of spark knock. There is also some math you can do to figure out a rough compression figure just knowing the measurements of your cylinder and stroke as well, but numbers in theory don't always match up to a good old fashioned test.
As far as the petcock, head into the 49cc tech library, look in the fuel section, and find the posts on replacing a vacuum petcock with a manual shutoff valve. No more sucking on lines - and avoids potential failures of that vacuum operated delivery system down the road!
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Post by AtariGuy on Mar 11, 2017 12:21:36 GMT -5
seems brent beat us to it already in this thread, and he's much more familiar with these numbers than my pre-coffee brain is lol |
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Post by AtariGuy on Mar 11, 2017 13:02:50 GMT -5
I literally just got my bits from fedex 20 mins ago. I've already done some inspection and noticed they scribed the piston arrow on the wrong side of my piston. I'll post pictures shortly to verify with you all. Otherwise i am fairly pleased with the quality. There are some chips but nothing to be too concerned about. I'll get to knocking down the sharp port edges tomorrow and prepping too.
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Post by pinkscoot on Mar 11, 2017 14:29:07 GMT -5
I found it easier to add vacuum to a petcock by using a plastic bottle like this:
 Give it a little squeeze then stick it in the vacuum hose and let go. it creates the vacuum needed to open the petcock.
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Post by pinkflames420 on Mar 11, 2017 14:34:40 GMT -5
seems brent beat us to it already in this thread, and he's much more familiar with these numbers than my pre-coffee brain is lol Yes he sure did! It's something I'd like to do for a piece of mind, but I can do without for now! I just wanna get everything installed LOL I DONT CARE ABOUT THIS DAMN RAIN ,.... I AM doing this today! Guys think I'll be fine riding my scoot right now with ALL the plastics off, including the headlight. I guess cover up the headlight connectors on the scoot so they don't get wet? I haven't read many people riding naked scoots in wet weather... Please PM me if need be, I don't wanna go off topic. 
pinkscoot , Great idea! I have something similar that will work just perfect! Beats sticking my finger and the hose in my mouth, then plugging it with the tip of my finger. Ew ew I know.  Another entree for my collections of TIPS n TRIX. |
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Post by 190mech on Mar 11, 2017 16:30:50 GMT -5
Gotta throw this one up,,have had 2 Chinarelli's that had a fit issue with a 70 cylinder crashing into the oil pump,,  Check that area before bolting it down and cracking the oil pump(ask me how I know..) |
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Post by pinkflames420 on Mar 11, 2017 16:49:02 GMT -5
Gotta throw this one up,,have had 2 Chinarelli's that had a fit issue with a 70 cylinder crashing into the oil pump,, Check that area before bolting it down and cracking the oil pump(ask me how I know..) THANK YOU, praising that you posted this while I'm just going outside to tarp up my scooter. I think I'll keep my iPad updated aswell as post up some installing pics. I think it'll only take me 15/20 mins or so so quickly file the sides down if I need to. The nail dremel is a bit light for this job. |
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Post by AtariGuy on Mar 11, 2017 18:19:22 GMT -5
Gotta throw this one up,,have had 2 Chinarelli's that had a fit issue with a 70 cylinder crashing into the oil pump,, Check that area before bolting it down and cracking the oil pump(ask me how I know..) i literally just came across this issue today, i posted a check your parts thread on my kit i got so i wouldnt hijack this thread - and good luck pinkflames! We're rootin for you! |
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Post by AtariGuy on Mar 11, 2017 20:13:05 GMT -5
(Suspense)
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Post by pinkflames420 on Mar 11, 2017 21:18:09 GMT -5
I know right lol same here. Had to take a break for an hour and watch the babes, but I'm just about to go back out and try ang give it a start. I plugged it with an 85. I only have increments of 5 right now tho. Might have to try the 80. My cylinder ---> oil pump clearance was good. Didn't have to change a thing. And this is piston at bdc, looks like it's right on the money?  
Sorry guys ill I'll have a video for you either tonight or tomorrow for sure. I'm gonna try and start err up |
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Post by pinkflames420 on Mar 12, 2017 0:17:09 GMT -5
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(btw, tired of sucking on my petcock to get fuel to the bowl, might consider manual? Don't wanna put wear n tear on starter)
