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Post by spaz12 on Aug 5, 2017 4:04:26 GMT -5
Looks cool. You might have issues with your pipe hitting the ground though with the motor slanted down like that.
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Post by 'O'Verse on Aug 5, 2017 11:12:05 GMT -5
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Post by harronek on Aug 5, 2017 17:30:08 GMT -5
After some consideration and study I think I agree with the observations that its to low with the standard shock setup .
Does anyone have a suggestion or link to a longer shock that will fit the Aerox ? The standard shock is 280mm long from center to center of mounting holes , after measuring it up I need a shock that is 310mm - 320 mm , any suggestions
Ken
Edit - just found one 310mm made by Malossi , and its here in Australia , so have ordered it .
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Post by spaz12 on Aug 5, 2017 18:35:27 GMT -5
After some consideration and study I think I agree with the observations that its to low with the standard shock setup . Does anyone have a suggestion or link to a longer shock that will fit the Aerox ? The standard shock is 280mm long from center to center of mounting holes , after measuring it up I need a shock that is 310mm - 320 mm , any suggestions Ken Edit - just found one 310mm made by Malossi , and its here in Australia , so have ordered it . www.maxiscoot.com/scooter/chassis-and-accessories.htmlRacing planet EU (something like that) has shocks and that's where Raizer , whose in New Zealand, orders from.
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Post by spaz12 on Aug 5, 2017 18:37:09 GMT -5
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Post by spaz12 on Aug 5, 2017 18:38:07 GMT -5
lol didn't see that you had edited your post.
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Post by Raizer on Aug 5, 2017 18:39:44 GMT -5
www.racing-planet.deAnd if you order this weekend it's 20% off using the code P-Rb4-Xhb-J4A They have flat rate DHL shipping too. I've ordered from them at least 3 times, first time shipping took ages, but it was right around Christmas, the others were under 10 days from Germany to my door. Am digging your build too man!
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Post by harronek on Aug 5, 2017 19:36:20 GMT -5
www.racing-planet.deAnd if you order this weekend it's 20% off using the code P-Rb4-Xhb-J4A They have flat rate DHL shipping too. I've ordered from them at least 3 times, first time shipping took ages, but it was right around Christmas, the others were under 10 days from Germany to my door. Am digging your build too man! I didnt realise you are in NZ , its good to know I'm not the only Scooter nut in the Antipodes . I'm not sure that the rest of the world realises how much we have to pay for shipping to fuel our Scooter habit down here . Thanks for the kind words about the build . Forgot to mention earlier that the rear end plastics arrived last week so thats one less thing to worry about . As well as a huge box containing a full plastics kit for an Aerox that was originally destined for General Grievous before it was decided to go half naked with him . These will get used on my wifes Aerox ( Blue Steel ) and will make it look a millon bucks . Ken
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Post by Raizer on Aug 6, 2017 3:18:16 GMT -5
Yeah mate, just over the ditch!
It's crazy the prices on bits here, even with shipping I'm doing better ordering from Germany or Japan than if I could find the items in NZ. And somethings just don't exist here lol.
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 6, 2017 5:35:47 GMT -5
That looks like a nice finish on the panels
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Post by harronek on Aug 18, 2017 23:45:10 GMT -5
Update Finally got to do some work on General Grievous today . I've had a few weekends of commitments , but today was build time . I'm slowly accumulating parts and pieces , but I won't bore everyone with those until its time to bolt them on . Totally stripped the bike down to bare frame and started removing all unwanted metalwork . I have spent many hours contemplating what to remove and what stays because it has to be right . I started by just roughly removing the unwanted lugs and steel . I ended up with quite a pile by the time I was finished ( the strange white dots are there to tell me to cut it off , no dots - no cut ). I slowly got the ugly ground down to smooth . I don't have to make it perfect because the frame is booked in with a custom spray/bodyshop and they will blast , sand and prepare it hopefully to perfection . Ken PS - I'm new to this , so this will probably sound like a dumb question , but ......... How do I remove this collar / nut on the steering stem ??
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Post by AtariGuy on Aug 18, 2017 23:52:42 GMT -5
Old joe trick if you can get spare castle nuts is to use a punch and hammer to tap them free. Don't help to retighten though. Otherwise look for a castle nut socket or spanner wrenches. Best way to research into the tools you're looking for is to do youtube lookups on how to replace steering stem bearings. Get a rough outer diameter of the castle nuts to narrow down which socket/spanner you'll need to use. Edit - m.opentip.com/product.php?products_id=6247883&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqJyWwcDi1QIV3rbACh1OWwneEAQYBCABEgJ_ofD_BwE - having a pair of these, you can hold the bottom one still while you tighten/lock the top one down - or verse vica when removing. Just find something closer to you
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Post by harronek on Aug 19, 2017 16:00:23 GMT -5
Cool ,
Thanks for the link . Im still a bit confused as to how this works , is it two nuts with the top one locking the bottom one ? How do you turn the top one when it has the tag that sits into the bottom ones recess ?
Im confused .
Ken
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Post by geoffh on Aug 20, 2017 10:53:13 GMT -5
Ken,it,s a while since I did this job but remove the handlebars and the top nut,replace the bottom set of roller bearings then assemble the top set, use the top two nuts to adjust the left right play and the front to back play,have a mate sit on the seat and you pull the wheel up and down till you "find" the balance.Then lock it down with the third nut.Hard nut to crack but try over tightening to find out where you don,t want to be.
6 spanner job IMO geoff
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 21, 2017 9:59:44 GMT -5
Cool , Thanks for the link . Im still a bit confused as to how this works , is it two nuts with the top one locking the bottom one ? How do you turn the top one when it has the tag that sits into the bottom ones recess ? Im confused . Ken That tang that goes through two nuts to keep them in place should be a separate piece. Not part of the nuts. This is the one on my TMAX so maybe you can see more clearly that it's not part of a nut.
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