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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 2:23:20 GMT -5
I broke my knee riding trials and got bored. Thats about all i'm going to explain as to why. This isn't slow, it's already 82cc ![](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BXsbK3Juf64/WkMV_0DAS4I/AAAAAAAAQC8/dsk5Oq4YZWwfZ4usUqdQ6yQ9O_dvCGQ4wCKgBGAs/s1600/DSC_0003_1.JPG) But I want more. Que this picture I found on the net. ![](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y6R4fpOItVA/WkNJ1-aCE7I/AAAAAAAAQEU/L6kab6B6nbQUU1_RCiPvSGayR7AjqNitQCLcBGAs/s1600/20229329_157678398115945_4585885637004480920_n.jpg) ![](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ck62eNILx0E/WkNJ1-56dKI/AAAAAAAAQEQ/D6jIN_vwPjA9Bz0ZOALjUKiAzDXhNeFTACLcBGAs/s1600/18678824_120300003922574679_90070888_n.jpg) So im not the first, but probably the first around here. Those are 2 different builds, one using the minarelli base, and one using the piaggio, but who knows if they ever ran. But im a machinist, so I don't let that discourage me. So I dragged my old early AF18E small crank out of the shed and ordered the last R/T95 kit from ScooterTuning ![](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D7XBkGhMbpo/WkNLZ1JGQ2I/AAAAAAAAQEg/E_xcY_NiBWwewrubxup5d1x9bt0U-N-9QCKgBGAs/s1600/20171223_134447.jpg) So the first thing is the cylinder skirt does not fit exactly. You could easily take it out with a dremel but I have a mill, so I bored it. ![](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1C5loQVHgb8/WkNLZ1ES4_I/AAAAAAAAQEg/qlbDtDPu6bICmBbDdh_9n7Nav--EgLAxwCKgBGAs/s1600/20171226_161321.jpg) And the bolt spacing needed to be opened out from the Minarelli 50mm spacing to the 47mm of the Honda. I also had to open up the counterbores a tad. ![](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GHraB-tZbPc/WkNLZ9I7NnI/AAAAAAAAQEg/HVzrZMUQJywlzd8mu1V2Z2JrDhNb1z6lACKgBGAs/s1600/20171226_174518.jpg) Now it all fit, but the kit comes with M7 TSHCS I was going to leave it m6 but I decided to tap the cases out to M7, however it could probably just be left M6.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 2:40:26 GMT -5
So I tapped and bolted it on for a test fit. ![](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9vRpou0W7Y0/WkNLZ8ZnXAI/AAAAAAAAQEg/JxMT5GolsGMY1HOe3mqjuJ4hkrZli9fuwCKgBGAs/s1600/20171226_225456.jpg) It looks like the inlet will work with some massaging. However it will be a restriction even with a big CT. Im working on that. ![](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xo2Ju3ZHmXY/WkNLZ9cbnxI/AAAAAAAAQEg/UTGIj1gLAAYk_odHMah9eTU9ms9ERBPggCKgBGAs/s1600/20171226_225525.jpg) ![](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iUIjR1zGztM/WkNOHAFdFXI/AAAAAAAAQEs/0YQLAf3jc9wTxNvOalKlXceN18nEGrQTQCKgBGAs/s1600/20171226_225448.jpg) I can share how I am going to build a crank from scratch to make this work next I guess.
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Post by 190mech on Dec 27, 2017 4:22:21 GMT -5
Super COOL!Looks like you could mill a notch in the cyl adapter to wedge the reed box in..Would love to see the crank build up also!! ![(thumb)](//storage.proboards.com/2855264/images/eDWyTTokntcMJkJGHuZO.gif)
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 4:30:25 GMT -5
Heres where i'm at with the reed block.
this cylinder can produce 25-28HP without breaking a sweat. the inlet wont flow that in it's current state. Nor will the CT reed.
I want to adapt an RC-One reed and inlet there, but the cases will still be a restriction. I want to make an entirely new baseplate that will allow me to cut away the Honda cases and will allow maximum flow and provide a mount for the RC-One inlet.
i'm making 2 cranks, going to take a stab at making a bob weight, balancing and adding tungsten or carbide to try and balance it out. I am still waiting for the Pro-X rods to get here but they should be here soon.
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Post by Lucass2T on Dec 27, 2017 7:14:41 GMT -5
Cool project! Im looking forward to you inlet solution! Have you thought about relocating the inlet to the front of the engine somewhere beneath the exhaust?
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Post by drc174 on Dec 27, 2017 10:06:33 GMT -5
I have a Malossi VL6 here you can snag for cheap.
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Post by 'O'Verse on Dec 27, 2017 13:23:58 GMT -5
There’s also this route. Intake window built into the spacer. Then just cap off the stock window. Or utilize it! ![](https://s18.postimg.org/68vkb43cl/B755_AA31-418_E-4428-_AD17-_CDF188_CC6_A31.jpg) ![](https://s18.postimg.org/lgbjw2339/CE1_FE6_D2-4642-4033-_BC3_F-3_EEF4052_DE43.jpg)
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 14:55:13 GMT -5
I have a Malossi VL6 here you can snag for cheap. Thanks for the offer, but I've already ordered the Malossi unit.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 14:57:00 GMT -5
There’s also this route. Intake window built into the spacer. Then just cap off the stock window. Or utilize it! ![](https://s18.postimg.org/68vkb43cl/B755_AA31-418_E-4428-_AD17-_CDF188_CC6_A31.jpg) ![](https://s18.postimg.org/lgbjw2339/CE1_FE6_D2-4642-4033-_BC3_F-3_EEF4052_DE43.jpg) I have seen simliar to that. I want to do something like that, but use both, by bolting the plate on in the original valve spacing and then cutting away the original cases. Are those for a Jog engine?
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 15:02:23 GMT -5
Cool project! Im looking forward to you inlet solution! Have you thought about relocating the inlet to the front of the engine somewhere beneath the exhaust? Not really. I kinda just want the thing to bolt in like OEM (motor wise) and that would cause some mounting issues.
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Post by lilpinny on Dec 27, 2017 15:11:52 GMT -5
looks good!
:popcorn:
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Post by 190mech on Dec 27, 2017 18:04:29 GMT -5
I was gonna say look into the MX 80/85/100/105 reed setups,but I guess its already done.. As to crank mods,its a trade off to narrow the rod,or face the crank wheels for a wide rod,,narrow rod may need a new bearing/cage,faced wheels wont grip the big end pin as well,,tuners decisions,,,,, ![(stumped)](//storage.proboards.com/2855264/images/TrRhLBrvtEBpEPtfhzws.gif)
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Post by 'O'Verse on Dec 27, 2017 19:26:48 GMT -5
It seems it's for minarelli vertical. Made by F1 racing parts. ![](https://s13.postimg.org/g884ppt83/IMG_0669.jpg)
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Post by vlatx on Dec 27, 2017 19:33:33 GMT -5
is there a space for making an rotodisk intake on the honda block ![](https://www.frcomoto.si/9063-thickbox_default/rotodisk-set-piaggio-gilera-parmakit.jpg)
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Post by pitobread on Dec 27, 2017 21:58:47 GMT -5
Well the Malossi mount means I can stuff a Banshee reed cage in there if need be. So the rod is this. Pro-X 03.1102. It is a 91mm length 17mm small end 24mm big end. Factory is 80mm length, same big/small end. ![](https://www.3pracing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/600x/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/0/3/03.1102.jpg) I will probably widen the crank slightly to allow for the bigger bearing, this makes the most sense to me vs grinding down the rod. I have 2 different cranks on the way, the CMR 44mm stroke And also a Taida, 43.6mm stroke. Here is the page that lists the Pro-X rod dimensions by brand. Very useful to figure out big and small end dimensions. www.pro-x.com/prox-connecting-rod-dimensions-brand/
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