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Post by 1quikvento on Jul 13, 2011 10:35:30 GMT -5
SO i recently rode my scoot up to the nearest scooter repair place to see if they had any cool parts for it and he sold me a cdi box that I dont think is going to work on my r4.
First it took us a half hour to find it. I knew where it was but he said that wasnt it. So now im stuck with a cdi that i cant use. mine has five wires and is mounted by the fuel tank. he sold me one of those anodized blue boxes that look like a mini amplifier thats got six wires. prolly wont work,right?
I was reading somewhere on this site that sometimes all u gotta do is clip one wire and I was hoping someone can help me out with this dilemma.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 13, 2011 12:58:39 GMT -5
Are you sure there's not a 6th wire tucked up somewhere? I once installed a CDI and somehow missed the last wire. Later located it and hooked it up after the kill switch failed to work at first. lol
Are you sure yours is even restricted? Neither of my Tritons had any CDI restriction.
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Post by 1quikvento on Jul 13, 2011 16:00:31 GMT -5
Im not sure if it has any restrictions or not. I'll tell you that its stock and does 45 all day- 50 mph on a flat road with the wind at my back and I weigh 240 lbs.
I kinda feel taken advantage of cuz this is the second time I'm having trouble with this guys parts. Im pretty sure I counted five wires-
I just wanna be able to go 50-55mph tops and not feel like my little motor and trans is being stressed too much and worked to death.
Since you've had two of em, can you give me some advice on the best way to get a little more umphh outta her without a complete teardown and rebuild? Im kinda honestly comfortable with its top end, but I wish it picked up speed a little better from a stop. Guy I've been confiding in hasnt been much of a help.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 13, 2011 16:25:14 GMT -5
No restrictions on it if it's doing that, especially with a 240lb rider.
Forget the CDI. It's not worth the money. Get your money back if possible.
You can try and aftermarket variator, like the Hoca that PFS sells. A set of slider weights in the stocker should help acceleration some, and is a bit cheaper than the new vari. A set of later engaging clutch springs would help you get off the line from maybe 0-10MPH a little faster.
What I really suggest is a big bore kit, but you said you don't wanna tear it down.
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Post by 2strokd on Jul 14, 2011 10:04:22 GMT -5
Ahhh, that last 5-10MPH sounds so sweet and simple. It can be a bit of a challenge on a 49cc scooter tho.
I agree, a decent BBK would get you were you want to be but ya gotta take the top-end off.
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Post by 1quikvento on Jul 18, 2011 9:37:53 GMT -5
I am totally down with a big bore kit!! I was gonna order one today! after I read the post from the guy that did one and posted detailed instructions, photos and the whole nine yards in the tech section I believe- it actually seems like quite an easy endeavor. I dont ride hard, so do you guys think I can get away with one of the cheaper taiwan kits? Id love a polini, but I kinda wanna start with a cheaper one just to learn how its done. Once my skills improve, then Ill do the quality stuff. 2stroked and 90gtvert- u guys have been hella good to me since I joined!
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 18, 2011 9:47:01 GMT -5
Something from Autotech355 on eBay or a Hoca from Parts For Scooters are good choices at reasonable prices. I used to be able to buy Polini kits from overseas at SIPScootershop pretty cheap, but then shipping can add up. I wouldn't really put the Polini kits above the others I just mentioned though. They are all good kits that I wouldn't think twice about using. Autotech's kits often include extras. Only downside from him is that you have to wait a little longer since it comes from Taiwan. If you can find something cheaper, it's probably OK, but make sure it comes with everything. Some kits don't even include a new cylinder head. Also, look at the exhaust port if you buy some unknown kit. I saw one 70cc kit with a port cut like a stocker, a half circle, not the best for performance. |
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Post by 1quikvento on Jul 31, 2011 11:41:01 GMT -5
so i finally ordered and installed my bbk. i ordered the basic kit w/ iron cylinder and they sent me an all aluminum kit(oops!!). the install was a breeze and went better than expected. How many miles should i do before I can open her up and check my top end? Im putt putting around the neighborhood at varying throttle positions as a break in. Also added a cap full of oil to the gas tank as an aid.
I put a new belt on and now the bike has no acceleration. doesnt seem to be revving as high too. I noticed the rollers were flat spotted, but even before the work the bike seemed to be decent from 0-10. i can feel the bbk's new torque from 20-40 and i still have to upjet the carb.
And i weighed the rollers that were in there and they are 4g weights. So i cant really go lighter to help me. I was hoping they were heavy so I can play around with lighter ones. Apparently the original owner wasnt informed that someone installed 4g weights and a bando belt in the cvt. it was running good before the bbk...
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Post by 1quikvento on Jul 31, 2011 11:50:58 GMT -5
Also when i pulled the cvt cover off, I didnt know you could leave the kickers snap ring in place and pull the kicker off with the cover, and the spring came undone. Havent had luck getting it back on. Both thumbs feel like theyre on fire and i need some help with it.
anyone got a how-to replace the kickstart spring link??
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tango
Scoot Enthusiast
Ad agendum semper parati
Posts: 389
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Post by tango on Jul 31, 2011 13:35:30 GMT -5
You added oil to the fuel in the tank and you're running an auto mixer? <scratching chin> I'm no expert at 2 strokes, but I would think you may be in danger of running the engine lean as a result. Too much oil in the mixture takes the place of fuel, while the amount of air remains the same. Hence, you run lean. I'd ask one of the more experienced guys to chime in here.
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Post by 1quikvento on Jul 31, 2011 14:09:00 GMT -5
While I was reading the thread about installing a bbk here on this site- I remember reading how the author made the proper adjustment of the oil pump cable- and I think twice he mentioned how he added a capful or two "of your favorite 2t oil" to the gas tank. But just for break-in. I thought it made sense to have that little bit more of lubrication while the rings are seating properly and such.
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Post by brandonscoot on Jul 31, 2011 18:57:08 GMT -5
i sure would like to know how to properly adjust that oil pump cable, that way i knwo i have at least close to proper fuel to oil ratio, my tail pipe is kinda oily inside as if i was running 50 to 1 or something, i wouldnt mind using a bit less oil. i used to ride motocross and it seemed like 32:1 was always real nice,
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 31, 2011 19:16:33 GMT -5
50:1 would be less oil than 32:1. I don't really know the proper way to adjust the oil pump. I premix so I know what I've got for sure instead of hoping it's right and hoping the pump never quits on me. I adjusted the pump to inject more oil in that article and added a couple of capfulls of oil to be on the safe side for the customer, who thought premix would be too much trouble for him. Last I heard it's still running like a champ, but it's not something I do myself. Every one of mine has had the injection removed.
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Post by 1quikvento on Jul 31, 2011 19:19:31 GMT -5
Im pretty sure its in the builds section, and the author used a keeway as the donor of the kit. But check it out- its highly detailed and the pics are great. It could be a book called " Big Bore Kits For Dummies". If i run across it I'll post a link.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 31, 2011 19:45:38 GMT -5
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