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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 18, 2018 19:41:06 GMT -5
I'm assuming it's because of the Chinese origin. Is there a Taiwanese axle you can find? I posed the issue to TRS in an email this evening. It's too late for anyone to answer the phone, apparently. Been a long-ass day for me, day job always gets in the way of this stuff. Anyway I chose to contact TRS because they explicitly state "Taiwan made not chinese" on their website. Price-wise, the axles ain't bad at 25 bucks. The hub has to be replaced as well, and that's around $150.
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 21, 2018 10:38:59 GMT -5
Wasn't sure to post a new thread or add to this one... it's all part of the same story, so continuing here. Need to dig out the axle to examine and most likely replace. In the meantime, I have a few questions regarding CVT MaintenanceThe FAQ on this site suggests a belt size of 842-20-30 for 150cc GY6. The engine came with 835-20-30. Looking at the drive faces, it doesn't appear to be getting full range. If I went with an 842-20-30, would that help with getting better top speed? It needs a new belt anyway - it measures 19mm width, and the threads popped out at one spot. Drive face wear: Thread wear: The print on the outer face of the belt is also showing some signs of wear. The bottom inside of the tranny cover have evidence of rubbing. Not sure if it's cause for concern or just normal. General comment, as with the 50cc Ruck, the GY6 Ruck seems to need CVT maintenance about every 1000 miles. The GY6 has 1300. So far, the 50cc rollers/sliders seem to wear out quicker than on the GY6, though I am going to get some Dr Pulley sliders and install with the new belt. That should get be back up to 70mph on those long downhills. Axle / Hub IssueWorking with TRS, we are still trying to figure out what's going on with the axle. They seem to think the C-clip on the axle must have moved or something. They verified that the correct axle is installed based on the part number off the shipping list that came with the kit. I will end up ordering their "made in Taiwan" axle but I want to get their opinion on whether or not the hub needs replaced as well. I sent them the pics posted earlier in this thread.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 21, 2018 11:47:17 GMT -5
A longer belt may help both high and low speed performance. It could let the belt travel outward more up front for speed, and outward more in the back to help takeoff.
You may also want to see if heavier rollers or sliders help you get more belt travel. If you don't have any on hand, stuff each roller evenly with aluminum foil. You must weigh them though, because they need to be even. You can add 1-2 grams per weight that way with rollers that size.
It's pretty normal to see the belt skimming the cover. May actually get worse with the longer belt. As long as it's just wearing off print, I don't worry about it. I've tried sanding covers before, but there's usually enough slack in a belt at some point that it doesn't matter.
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Post by Happypancake! on Jul 21, 2018 15:39:36 GMT -5
If variator is fully closed the a longer belt will help. But if it is too long, it also will lessen top end.
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 29, 2018 9:32:58 GMT -5
This is a bit perplexing. There are only small subtle differences in the axle geometry that apparently make a huge difference. New axle on left, old on right throughout these shots. The C-clips look spot on. Slight variation on the spline ends angle, tranny side. Spline end angle on hub side. Hub side of gear-stop ridge is rounded off. I have put probably close to 200 miles on the new setup, and the hub has shown no signs of wear. There is only a slight bit of side-to-side movement (hear soft "clicks") when I get down and really try to force the wheel back and forth, but no slop at the hub. After using the impact wrench to tighten down the hub nut just as precautionary measure, the "clicking" is still present, so assuming that's all in the tranny gears. Fingers crossed, one nasty gremlin bites the dust. Also installed the longer belt and threw in some 14g DR sliders. Nothing like a fresh CVT overhaul. It brought engine speed down by about 500 RPMs and the bike doesn't shutter as much. Tranny engagement also kicks in a little sooner, so thank-you for the feedback. There are some really fun long sweeping downhills around here, and some short twisties too. Tucked in, it does 68mph quite readily. The speedometer is pretty accurate against those road-side radar detectors telling you how fast you are going. Also new header pipe installed, to wrap it all up. Back in business!
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 29, 2018 10:12:15 GMT -5
Odd problem while putting the gear box back together though. All but one or two of the bolts never really bottomed out, and I was worried about stripping something. After checking the torque spec (11 ft lbs) I got my precision torque wrench out to be sure, and ended up snapping one of the bolts at something less than 11 ft lbs. How can that be? Are these crappy chinese bolts or what, and they should all be replaced?? After eyeing one of the other bolts from the opposite end of the hole and screwing it in just a tad, I could see it turning. So I dunno, I left it as-is and went riding.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 29, 2018 12:52:45 GMT -5
Glad to see you making progress. The little bit of play that you feel moving the wheel back and forth is probably backlash in the gears. You can usually feel it easily if you move the clutch bell.
I've never had a gearbox bolt break, but Chinese fasteners can be pretty suspect. As long as you don't mess up the cases, count your blessings. I've stripped out case threads at or before torque specs before. Would be a good idea to make sure the threads in the case are OK before anything else goes in. Another possibility is a torque wrench out of calibration.
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Post by mrkswthwrth on Jul 29, 2018 20:10:00 GMT -5
Eyy glad to see its back up and attem! Now i need to finish my swap so we can cruise
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Post by jbjhillbilly on Jul 30, 2018 10:17:57 GMT -5
Another possibility is a torque wrench out of calibration. I had that recently. Luckily I only pulled some middle threading out of the case, but the top and bottom of the threads were fine. Ran a thread cutter thru the hole to clean it up, and no problems.
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 31, 2018 16:59:29 GMT -5
Eyy glad to see its back up and attem! Now i need to finish my swap so we can cruise Yeah, it was a bit naive of me to think of driving so far away from the garage with so few miles on the odo. No major issues at this point. If I wrote about every issue I had, there would be no time left to actually fix anything. Mostly minor annoying stuff that I'd rather spend the time riding instead of wrenching. Hit me up with a PM some time to gauge my confidence level. Averaging 55mph with no break-downs, it should be less than a 2-hour ride. Well, uh, no actually, prob hit some twisties in Moravia on the way down/up! Cheers
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 31, 2018 17:03:55 GMT -5
Another possibility is a torque wrench out of calibration. I had that recently. Luckily I only pulled some middle threading out of the case, but the top and bottom of the threads were fine. Ran a thread cutter thru the hole to clean it up, and no problems. Just by feel, I was definitely not hitting 11 ft lbs. Good thoughts though. The precision wrench I have goes by in. lbs. and I rarely use it. Though it sits out in the garage when it's -20F in a nice solid plastics case, pretty sure there isn't anything wrong with it.
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Post by mrkswthwrth on Jul 31, 2018 17:05:32 GMT -5
Hah definitely feel that, im still not even done with my swap. Still need to finish up the motor mounts and then get a back wheel. Hopefully have it on the road in a week, but I'll still have plenty of troubleshooting to go through before any real riding. Good luck with the build!
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Aug 29, 2019 19:02:52 GMT -5
Guess what folks, 1 year later, the hub splines gave way. So I went ahead and ordered/installed new hub, what else ya gonna do? About a month now, I am having the same issue as what prompted this thread to start with. The hub nut has to be torqued down every 100 miles or so. Again, I know the bolt is not slipping because there is copious red loctite on that thing. Apparently the hub/axle are not a good match again? I'm still bewildered how replacing the axle (with a Taiwan-made piece) fixed this previously. What now? I'm tempted to put the old axle back in again and see if it is a better mate with the new hub. Thoughts?
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Aug 29, 2019 19:59:39 GMT -5
Drill it safety wire or cotter pin or quick release pin !
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Aug 30, 2019 4:47:11 GMT -5
Drill it safety wire or cotter pin or quick release pin ! But the problem is not that the nut is backing off. The axle and hub do not mate well, so the slack is coming from hub wear - it's aluminum hub vs. steel axle. The hub splines will eventually wear out again and I will be stuck having to buy another hub.
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