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Post by 1quikvento on Aug 9, 2011 20:07:54 GMT -5
Dont know if im being paranoid. Im waiting on my helicoil kit for the head bolt threads, so im cruising lightly and testing weights. At one point, I coulda swore I got exhaust fumes in my face when I pulled the cvt cover off. Also thought that a lil leftover belt dust under my vari seemed a little wet/oily like it was seeping from behind the flywheel.
Is this even possible?? If so then this scooter is taking ME for a ride. Its just weird that after my 70cc kit, I get a pulled head stud, and now a crank seal??
If thats the case, then I cant do a leakdown test till i repair the leaky head gasket right? And i definately shouldnt sign up for a c16 pipe right now, right??
Its hexed.
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Post by jmkjr72 on Aug 9, 2011 20:22:41 GMT -5
yeah you have to be able to be sealed up good to do a leak down test
unless you do what some of the vespa guys do
and that is fill the case with kerosene and see where it drips out at
but a leaky crank seal would casue you to be very lean too
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Post by 2strokd on Aug 10, 2011 3:47:00 GMT -5
lol, thats one way to check i guess. Never heard that one. Thanks!
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Post by 1quikvento on Aug 10, 2011 14:03:21 GMT -5
What about the "wet,oily feeling" on the inner case under my vari, and the exhaust fumes that I may-may not be smelling.? Could they be characteristics of a seal thats going bad??
The case gasket is missing a few inches in that area.
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Post by jmkjr72 on Aug 10, 2011 18:57:13 GMT -5
lol, thats one way to check i guess. Never heard that one. Thanks! an old vespa guy told me that one there you would open and drain the trans and if you had kerosene comeing out your trans it was a clutch side seal and if it was comeing out by the fly wheel fly side seal if it was your base gasket it would leak out there or if it was just a bad case seal you could see where it was leaking from |
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Post by jmkjr72 on Aug 10, 2011 18:57:50 GMT -5
yes it could be
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 10, 2011 18:58:23 GMT -5
Could be. I'd just wait till I got the helicoil done and then do a leakdown test. If you really wanna know before the helicoil, maybe clean the CVT area very well and let it run for a few then see if it's oily around the seal if you don't do the kerosene test.
What case gasket? If you have one between the CVT cover and case, it's pointless. The cases themselves use a sealant and seals.
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Post by 1quikvento on Aug 12, 2011 20:51:04 GMT -5
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 12, 2011 21:01:18 GMT -5
Hey man, that "crap" you speak of is carbon deposits, it looks like. You can get it off but i am a firm believer in "SEA-FOAM" now. That shit will remove everything very quick, within 1 tank, already worked.. GReat stuff....
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Post by 1quikvento on Aug 12, 2011 21:01:35 GMT -5
Despite knowing it only had 80psi of compression, I still drove it to work and back a few days this week. Surprisingly, since Ive put that nico vari and red clutch springs in, Im still topping 44-45mph with my flat spotted rollers( dr. p sliders should be here tomorrow).
Im hoping that with 2x the amount of compression(well, approx. 2x) and a normal reading,that this bike shows me a little love back by rewarding me with better acceleration.
On a side note, I also noticed a bit of that build up on the top side of the exhaust outlet, while the bottom and part of the sides were oily clean. Like the exhaust flow is out of whack.Ill have to shoot pics of the jug. Dunno where my buddy bought the kit from, but I was looking at the ports and casting n such and Im happy with the way it was built. Id love to lightly port it before going back on, but Im not sure if it has that nikasil coating or not...
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Post by reveeen on Aug 13, 2011 13:42:05 GMT -5
On the crank seal:
The only other thing you could have going on there is some leakage through your starter/starter hole. If I am not mistaken, your starter indexes with the gear behind your variator, so it is quite possible some oily "stuff" could be being blown into your starter's location, and seeping through the hole the starter mounts through, or the starter itself.
Not that I wish to see someone change a crank seal unnecessarily, but it shouldn't pose a BIG problem anyway, they aren't that big a deal to change.
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Post by 1quikvento on Aug 15, 2011 10:19:17 GMT -5
Im just assuming it might be a difficult job to do. Hell, it took me about an hour at the most to pull my jug, drill out the threads and install a heli coil. That was a breeze. Took me way longer to relocate my rear turn signals.
I just dont have the greatest amount of confidence when doing a job Ive never done before. I stay super cautious cuz " If something can go wrong, more that likely it will".
Now that i think about it, if its like doing one on a car it should be a breeze. remove the pulley(or vari and flywheel) to access the seal, pull it and reinstall fresh one.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 15, 2011 10:34:16 GMT -5
You've got it. Remove everything in the way and swap it out. You'll have to remove the variator assembly, starter clutch, spacer, and then you'll have a snap ring in front of the seal.
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Post by 2strokd on Aug 16, 2011 10:34:59 GMT -5
its not that bad man. I know you can do it!
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Post by 1quikvento on Aug 16, 2011 11:52:43 GMT -5
I will reinspect for any fumes or wetness in the cvt when my new sliders get here. Im so excited I finally ordered an ehaust too! big step in my scoot build.
Will post new compression reading today and depending on the reading I may do a leak down as well. Can anyone tell me about how much line pressure ill be safe with?? Shop pressure here is pretty high...
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