throttle cable suggestions

[fuzzyruttin]

So I got this "new" Keihin CVK and have a few issues with the throttle cable. The cable is stock Ruckus. The overall length is about 6 inches too long, the "free" cable is about 1/2" too long even after full adjustment, and the cable end diameter is too big to fit in the mounting bracket. Any suggestions on how and what to order?

1) A proper measurement should not include the elbows, correct? In other words, only measure the length of the black plastic sheathing?

2) I'd prefer to not drill out the bracket. How do you go about sizing the bracket end? I'm not sure how standardized these are.


Couple pics for reference. Old carb





Keihin carb. Note how the elbow is too long and will be forced to make a nasty bend getting around the frame. Also note the cable slot on the throttle pulley is about 1/2" lower on the Keihin carb as compared to the old one; hence I need about 1/2" less free cable.



Anyone else running a Keihin on GY6 Ruck?

[FrankenMech]

Can you rotate the throttle pulley on the shaft to get more wrap? It looks like there is a set screw.

It looks like there is enough meat in the bracket to drill it out.

I put a knurled knob on my throttle adjustment screw.

Modifications are always fun...

[fuzzyruttin]

Right, the set screw prohibits changing the rotation angle. And yes, the bracket can be drilled, but that will be my last resort.

[FrankenMech]

If it is a normal set screw you can change the pulley angle. Remove the pulley and file another flat spot. Then reinstall the pulley in the new position. Sometimes I file a groove in the shaft so the set screw prevents rotation and sliding off the shaft.

[gsx600racer]

If you're really really really good with a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel, you can cut the outer sheath to shorten which makes the inner cable longer.

The trick is use side cutters to spread the outer coiled cable apart so you can see better when you cut with the dremel




You need to slowly close the tool at an angle to feel for the spiral. Close just enough to split it apart without going into the center wire.


Then take a couple pliers and reverse the twist of the outer cable to see better.




 Remove the outer plastic and slowly start slotting the outer cable. Id suggest doing both sides(180 deg apart)



 
Eventually you can take needle nose pliers and try breaking into individual segments.


Then take the segments and twist them apart(with the cut on the opposite side they should break vs bending) so you can remove them off the center cable.


 Bend the center cable away from the outer sheath and cutoff the excess tab



PS: I know the cable end was missing. I was not going to cut up a good cable.

[geoffh]

I have seen cable ends replaced with a 'solder less nipple 'they are commonly found on pedal bike brakes,not sure what you yanks call them.

Geoff

[islandscrub]

I've found that if you peel off the plastic, vise-grip near the spot you want to cut to, then grab the end of the coil and --STRETCH-- out the coil you can just clip the one end and spin off the coil sheath from the cable. No little rings everywhere to get stuck in your shoe later.

[FrankenMech]

If you nick that inner cable with side cutters or a dremel tool the cable is done for.

[fuzzyruttin]

Yeah, no kidding. Not only that,
- it would not solve the elbow problem (could probably just cut it)
- it would not solve the free cable length problem (could replace with solderless nipple, thanks geoffh),
- it would not solve the mounting bracket problem (not convinced that simply drilling out the hole will solve this, given the geometry with respect to the pulley wheel. Probably have to cut off the metal cable end at the spot where there are no threads.)

I'm gonna bring the cable to a couple bike shops after work today and see if they can help size something up.

I appreciate all the suggestions so far though.

[fuzzyruttin]

After stopping by my favorite local bike shop and talking to them, it sounds like what I would be getting into is a custom made throttle cable, which would likely cost close to $100. I wasn't convinced that the measurement translation and exact needs would be properly communicated to whatever online company I chose to go through, so I decided to do my own custom mod, and purchase a properly sized bracket mount and cable end barrel/nipple (or whatever they're called).




Re-installed the cable to figure out exactly where the cut should be.




Pulled the inner cable all the way to the throttle grip end, and dremel-cut everything off at the elbow.




Removed the outer sheathing up to the marked cut point, then measured how much inner cable to pull though at the throttle end to ensure I wouldn't cut through it, 8 or so inches.




Dremel-cut the metal sheathing and did a quick mock-up.






Re-installed on the bike again to determine where to cut the inner cable.




Soldered the new barrel on and ground everything flush.




The barrel is about 1/8" too wide, so I decided to dremel-cut to proper length. After basically having everything done, the barrel heated up enough to melt the solder and the cable pulled through during cutting. ARGH!!!! Only a couple f-bombs and other colorful four letter words. Damn, so close. Done for the night. I'll have to go back to the bike shop and get another barrel, optionally try to melt all the old solder out of this one, but the chances of getting the frayed cable end back through a crumby hole is just going to lead to frustration. Screw it, couple bucks for a new barrel, or if they're nice they'll just give it to me because they feel bad.

[gsx600racer]

Jan 15, 2019 5:24:05 GMT -5 fuzzyruttin said:

Yeah, no kidding. Not only that,
- it would not solve the elbow problem (could probably just cut it)
- it would not solve the free cable length problem (could replace with solderless nipple, thanks geoffh),
- it would not solve the mounting bracket problem (not convinced that simply drilling out the hole will solve this, given the geometry with respect to the pulley wheel. Probably have to cut off the metal cable end at the spot where there are no threads.)

I'm gonna bring the cable to a couple bike shops after work today and see if they can help size something up.

I appreciate all the suggestions so far though.

I thought you could of shortened the cable on the throttle end, not the carb end.

[FrankenMech]

Unless the cable barrel hits something you can leave it long.

I make my own cable barrels often from brass, copper, or steel tubing. I fray the cable on purpose to spread the strands inside the barrel then fill it with solder.

I always start with a known type of cable so I can reproduce it easier.

The lack of threads on the cable may cause problems when adjusting the throttle.

[fuzzyruttin]

Jan 15, 2019 21:34:32 GMT -5 gsx600racer said:

Jan 15, 2019 5:24:05 GMT -5 fuzzyruttin said:

Yeah, no kidding. Not only that,
- it would not solve the elbow problem (could probably just cut it)
- it would not solve the free cable length problem (could replace with solderless nipple, thanks geoffh ),
- it would not solve the mounting bracket problem (not convinced that simply drilling out the hole will solve this, given the geometry with respect to the pulley wheel. Probably have to cut off the metal cable end at the spot where there are no threads.)

I'm gonna bring the cable to a couple bike shops after work today and see if they can help size something up.

I appreciate all the suggestions so far though.

I thought you could of shortened the cable on the throttle end, not the carb end.

The carb end is where all the geometry problems are. Either way, one of the barrels would have to be redone.

[fuzzyruttin]

Jan 15, 2019 22:46:14 GMT -5 FrankenMech said:

Unless the cable barrel hits something you can leave it long.

I make my own cable barrels often from brass, copper, or steel tubing. I fray the cable on purpose to spread the strands inside the barrel then fill it with solder.

I always start with a known type of cable so I can reproduce it easier.

The lack of threads on the cable may cause problems when adjusting the throttle.

The throttle wheel is cupped where the barrel is inserted. It had to be cut.

I don't have any small metal tubing lying around, but that's not a bad idea. Solder could be added to the end of the tube, might be easier, actually.

There is sufficient cable length adjustment at the grip end of stock ruckus cable. The elbow is threaded into the grip piece and also has a fairly long adjustment mechanism on the downward side of the elbow end, like a good 1/2".

[sToRm]

What size is that new carb, 28mm or 30mm?
Do you know what it was made for? (scoot, go kart, atv)