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Post by 190mech on Jan 3, 2020 12:51:30 GMT -5
Looks good!Howz it run??
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Post by dexameth on Jan 3, 2020 15:40:14 GMT -5
It's great! First time I've kept up with traffic on a marked 45mph road... on a 49cc!! There was a good amount of tailwind but oh well. Speedo read 47mph which is dead accurate to GPS. I gotta check the plug cuz... I didn't even upjet it yet. Feels normal, pulls good, no weirdness to it but I have only gone 3 miles with it so far. After work I may go from 78 to 86 main jet and then tinker with CVT stuff. I have the Hoca performance variator and clutch with a new Continental 788x17 belt (seems too short really). Weird thing: @90gtvert claimed the Hoca variator boss is SMALLER than stock with the 15 spline cranks; it's actually larger than stock with the 17 spline cranks ): even with all 2k springs the clutch it wants to engage right when I twist the throttle. Makes me think I need a slightly longer belt. I have access to a 798x17 Gates belt... hmm... Tonight I'm gonna tinker with CVT stuff.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 3, 2020 20:14:32 GMT -5
Put the Gates and the current belt side by side before you install the Gates. I bought a Gates 798 to replace a Bando 788 years ago and it was actually shorter.
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Post by christopher on Jan 3, 2020 20:49:24 GMT -5
Yeah, I bought three new belts all longer according to the box labeling, to find all three different lengths shorter. Some should have been 10mm longer and were same length or shorter. I ended up contacting parts for scooters, explaining what was going on and how I had measured mine using parts for scooters video on belt sizes. They measured a few longer sizes I was interested in and found me a longer belt from there selection. You almost need to pick a brand and stick with it just for sizing purposes.
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Post by dexameth on Jan 4, 2020 9:19:42 GMT -5
Yeah, I bought three new belts all longer according to the box labeling, to find all three different lengths shorter. Some should have been 10mm longer and were same length or shorter. I ended up contacting parts for scooters, explaining what was going on and how I had measured mine using parts for scooters video on belt sizes. They measured a few longer sizes I was interested in and found me a longer belt from there selection. You almost need to pick a brand and stick with it just for sizing purposes. Nice! That was before I worked there cuz I don't remember that (I'm currently employed there btw). I spent a good amount of time going thru our inventory for any belt longer than 788 with a 17mm wide profile and there's only 2 now: that Gates 798 and our Universal Parts 792x16.6. I haven't used either one yet, buy I will compare the two for sure before I purchase.
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Post by dexameth on Jan 4, 2020 9:46:51 GMT -5
Here's my current setup: 6g sliders 2k springs all around Hoca Variator and Clutch Continental 788-17-28 belt I removed the variator boss washer and put it behind the backplate in hopes of more belt travel. I feel quicker off the line with this setup, but with 5g and a stock contra I was about 5mph faster on top end. It has been wicked windy so I've been trying to factor that in too... I ended up taking off Stella's tachometer and putting it on the Matrix to help. Old lisence plate bracket haha only temporary Some Google help let me know that the NextR pipe comes on hardest around 8500rpm so I've tuned to that. The current setup gets there perceft... except off the line with the instant engagement it takes a second to get moving... but once I'm moving and get up in the 8k range its really powerful. I'm gonna move back to the stock contra and see if the 5g setup puts me back in that range, also I'll be trying with and without the boss washer. I'll do the sharpie trick as well, really see where this travel is.
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Post by Zino on Jan 4, 2020 12:42:50 GMT -5
Since you have a tach I found over 5500 rpms was what I needed to set the clutch for good take off So I went to harder clutch springs. I Also found around 8500-9100 rpms worked equally well with that pipe to set the variator weights at.
The Etons are a nice Zuma clone about 10 lbs lighter than a bug eye with the quivalent of 2008-2011 final gear ratio .
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Post by dexameth on Jan 5, 2020 18:00:18 GMT -5
So I have the CVT dialed in for the time being... 8200 average is good for all around riding. But... last night my battery died leaving me stranded. Luckily i was close to home so a friend let me use his Grom tongo home and get a spare battery. Had a 4ah in, replaced with a 9ah. Was able to finish our quick ride and get home.
This morning I went for another ride and had the battery get low so it felt like a bad plug... sputtering off the line until rpms rose and it drove okay. I pulled over and disconnected my headlights and was able to get home.
I did a lot of wire chasing to see if the headlights were actually drawing that much and it seems as they really are... but why? I don't have AC volt reading on my multimeter so I cannot test the stator output, but I was able to wire the multimeter to my battery and go for a ride. Not the best results:
Rpms don't help it charge over 12v. Why? So weird. I can ride for a while and it slowly discharges until it cannot fire the CDI anymore. Everything stock except the exhaust. So, I'm lost. I need to invest in a AC volt meter so I can see what this stator is pushing out.
I almost wanna install an AC stator, CDI, rectifier and rewire the whole thing...
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Post by 190mech on Jan 6, 2020 0:15:23 GMT -5
The DC CDI works real well,keep it and resolve your charging problem..Could be the stator or the regulator/rectifier.I have a voltmeter on my old Eton and it reads 14.2 volts when riding..
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Post by Zino on Jan 6, 2020 1:05:14 GMT -5
My Regulator went Bad on my last Beamer . Had similar symptoms to yours .
So i would second looking there or the Stator like 190 mech suggests. I had a rotted wire on the ignition coil that just basically fell apart hat caused my spark to be weak also .
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Post by geoffh on Jan 6, 2020 10:38:30 GMT -5
If it helps over in Europe ac and DC current are depicted as V with a straight line at the side and dashes under that ac is shown as V with a curvey line after it,you yanks might have it different . Geoff
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Post by 190mech on Jan 6, 2020 13:19:22 GMT -5
I noticed you have the AC settings your meter,they are straight up..
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Post by dexameth on Jan 7, 2020 9:48:58 GMT -5
That meter is the free meter with purchase you get at Harbor Freight haha and the AC volts reads 200-750v so trying to read anything under 200 just reads 000. I guess it's time I invest in a good one, they are less than 25 bucks at HF and read 2-700v so I'll probably pick that up later today.
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Post by dexameth on Jan 9, 2020 10:16:26 GMT -5
So what do you guys think? I did a little test last night:
Started up scooter with volt meter attached to battery. 12.5v off, 12.2v "key" on. Start up and it drops to 12.1v and when I rev up I can get another .1 or .2 volts. Start to rev up even more and the volts start jumping (mostly downwards). Like, I started revving up to right before the clutch engages and the RPMs read 11.4, then 8.5, then 12.2, then 12.0, then 11.4 and so on.
I turned everything off, unplugged the rectifier, then started back up. 12.5v off, 12.2v "key" on. Rev up, nothing changes. After about 10 seconds or so the volts dropped to 12.1v but there was absolutely no flickering or jumping of the volts.
I never got a chance to pick up the multimeter that read AC volts, been way too busy. Last night I had a few minutes after work to run that test and now I feel like the rectifier could be toast. I sell a Kymco 5 wire rectifier that I think may work... Kymco are DC and so is ETON. Here's my wire configuration: RED - to battery BLACK - to ground BROWN - to key switch WHITE - to stator WHITE/RED - to stator
So, the Kymco wiring being identical just different colors should be a direct fitment, right? RED - to battery GREEN - to ground BLACK - to key switch YELLOW - to stator YELLOW - to stator
I wish my service manual gave me the correct testing numbers... the stator test section tells me to test wires I don't even have (since this is a DC Minarelli stator and they have a AC Minarelli stator wire configuration).
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Post by 190mech on Jan 10, 2020 5:02:31 GMT -5
The Eton DC stator is identical to the AC chinarelli except there is no source coil winding on the DC(its blank)..Can get you some running voltages on the AC side today if you like..What are you looking for?
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