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Post by dexameth on Jan 10, 2020 7:08:49 GMT -5
So on my stator:
BLACK - ground
WHITE - to stator
WHITE/RED - to stator
YELLOW/RED - to enricher.
A friend came over with a nice multimeter and I tested last night and got ~21v out of each wire going to the stator and no more than 14v going to the enricher. That should be at least 40v going to the rectifier, but mine reads all crazy. I'm getting the rectifier from work today and we will see what happens...
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Post by dexameth on Jan 10, 2020 9:40:34 GMT -5
Bought it as soon as I got to work since there was only 2 left in stock.  Should work perfect being the wiring is the same as mine, just different colors. Looked up the Kymco weird diagram and it seems legit: BLACK - key switch YELLOW - stator PINK - stator RED - battery GREEN - ground  The connector is not the same but that's no big deal. I'll wire it up after work and report back! |
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Post by dexameth on Jan 10, 2020 14:14:45 GMT -5
Plugs were completely different between old and new rectifiers (go figure haha) so on lunch I did this:   Direct plug and play now, only I'm back on the clock so I won't know if this works until 5pm. The anticipation is already killing me! |
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Post by dexameth on Jan 11, 2020 7:19:35 GMT -5
Plugged in, checked volts. 12.8v. Flip key, 12.2v start up and idle at 12.3v. Take off and ride home and it hovers at 12.5 and never got above. Come to a stop and it idles at 12.3 then I take off and it gets back to 12.5v.
I wasn't able to ride around enough to see if the battery is draining, I'm gonna cruise around a bit today and test it out for the long run.
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Post by Zino on Jan 11, 2020 8:59:45 GMT -5
I believe the fix is in.
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Post by dexameth on Jan 13, 2020 11:15:03 GMT -5
So the battery is still not charging. I am getting volts, but not enough to charge fully... I rode to work this morning and the battery was resting at 12.6v and while driving was 12.3ish all the way here. I haven't used my turn signals at all, and only used the electric start twice all day... it's hard to believe my lights are drawing that much - so it must be a faulty stator? Idk... I was able to drill a hole in my swingarm and attach my Tecnigas exhaust a LOT more secure. 
You can see a little nut that I used as a spacer, but the mounting bracket still made contact with the bracket that holds the rear fender on, so I used an old innertube as a rubber buffer to stop any vibrations.   this thing does 40-45 easy now, and I tucked up to 50mph GPS! I cannot wait to get a BBK and larger carb on... |
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Post by dexameth on Jan 13, 2020 12:59:43 GMT -5
So this is strange... Got home on lunch just now and unplugged my headlights. Battery is 12.39v and I flip the on switch and kickstart at the same time, rev up and the volts jump to 13.1v!
These 35/35w halogen headlights must be drawing THAT much... I would not think so but this kinda verified it.
Gonna watch the volt meter on my 1.6 mile ride back to work and see what happens.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 13, 2020 13:29:02 GMT -5
Are both lights on at the same time? If so, 70 watts is a lot for a scoot's charging system. Might wanna see if you can find LED replacement bulbs to drop that number down (tail/brake light too if you haven't done that).
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Post by dexameth on Jan 13, 2020 13:36:37 GMT -5
Yes, manual says "left-off, middle-60%, right-100%" but left never shuts it off... just low/low/high. The stock bulbs were standard 35/35w I thought (I'll dig them up when I get home tonight and verify), so I replaced with my spare halogens for the Stellas to get brighter, whiter light. They indeed are brighter! But I thought the same thing, 70w is a bit much. I'll probably try the 18/18w setup and see what happens and then look for an LED option as well. The tail light assembly is fully LED, which is cool.
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Post by dexameth on Jan 13, 2020 14:26:56 GMT -5
Well, check this out... I unplugged my headlight assembly and rode back to work FULLY CHARGING MY BATTERY
Time to take out the 35/35 and install 18/18 I'd say.
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Post by dexameth on Jan 14, 2020 9:03:53 GMT -5
Well this sucks. Her charging system can't even keep up with ONE 18e headlight installed. As I'm putting everything back together I notice that there's markings in the headlight assembly  So it definitely has 35w stock, I need to figure out this problem. The final piece of the puzzle is the stator but this stator has different wire outputs... confusing. 3 outs and a ground and a pickup. 2 go to the rectifier and 1 is for the auto enricher. Last time I checked I got 20v from each and no more than 14v from the enricher wire. My guess is maybe the enricher has a 20v and the rectifier is getting 14v+20v bit that's just a guess. I wanna verify that before I buy the stator. Ughhh I just wanna ride with my headlights haha dangit |
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Post by dexameth on Jan 15, 2020 19:59:47 GMT -5
So it's not the headlights. Everything is testing back to the rectifier dropping the INPUT volts from the stator to the rectifier. I've tested both white/red and white wires and well... watch the videos.
I've never seen or heard of this issue before... I'm stumped. Getting to my nerves, not gonna lie.
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Post by christopher on Jan 16, 2020 20:17:17 GMT -5
What do you have for grounds? My last bike even with a good ground on my meter was to small. I added larger wires and the voltage went up 0.75 volts.
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Post by dexameth on Jan 17, 2020 8:56:47 GMT -5
What do you have for grounds? My last bike even with a good ground on my meter was to small. I added larger wires and the voltage went up 0.75 volts. You mean engine to frame, battery to frame, where specifically? I haven't checked, honestly... dangit. But, all connections are good that I've inspected. I am pretty sure the main engine ground is on the starter motor connector to the harness, then that goes to the battery. I'll double check on the battery tonight to see if there's a good frame ground. |
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Post by dexameth on Jan 17, 2020 11:30:04 GMT -5
I THINK I FIGURED IT OUT (but I cannot test my theory until lunch break...) So the Matrix is equipped with a "head control unit". I've been curious as to what this little bugger is. Look how the pickup coil is tied into the HCU.  1 is ground 4 is 12v from keyswitch 21 is pickup coil 22 is headlight switch input 23 goes to the headlight switch too (the resistor?) Then I read this:  So basically if you're idling and it's below the manufacture preset in the HCU, the unit will drop the volts to the headlights. Well, the 2nd time I started the scooter up I noticed the headlights were not working. That's when I tied the 12v lead into the headlight switch input and the lights worked again. After that is when I killed the battery and started researching this issue. So, the unit could have went out completely and turned into the biggest resistor ever - creating the huge load on the battery as soon as the rectifier is connected. What's strange is I have completely disconnected this box from the wire harness and still had this issue but this is the biggest lead I have had yet... pun intended. I guess I'm gonna disconnect #23 from the headlight switch and #21 run ONLY to the CDI. We'll see. If this doesn't work - I'm going to AC with a new stator and CDI. |
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