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Post by christopher on Jan 17, 2020 11:39:58 GMT -5
What do you have for grounds? My last bike even with a good ground on my meter was to small. I added larger wires and the voltage went up 0.75 volts. You mean engine to frame, battery to frame, where specifically? I haven't checked, honestly... dangit. But, all connections are good that I've inspected. I am pretty sure the main engine ground is on the starter motor connector to the harness, then that goes to the battery. I'll double check on the battery tonight to see if there's a good frame ground. I added a ground from the stator to the battery. |
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Post by dexameth on Jan 20, 2020 10:16:17 GMT -5
Alright guys, another update:
I had a spare Minarelli clone that I forgot about, which was setup for AC. I took the CDI and stator from that engine and wired them into mine. Pickup and exciter direct to CDI. 2 charging leads to rectifier/regulator. I used a switch for the kill switch wire (ground to kill). Fired right up.
EXACT SAME ISSUES. Stator puts out upwards of 40v on the lead I tested (way more than the stock stator, so it must be the solution?!) but as soon as I plug the rectifier into the battery (or simply connecting the rectifier to a light bulb) the stator output drops to ~7v and RPMs drop as well. Same freaking charging issues with a different stator.
Now I'm confused and honestly getting fed up with this. The good thing is even with no battery I can drive this around since the CDI is AC fired. What sucks though is I drove about 15 mile round trip and got home to around 7v at the battery from the draw of the headlights. Turn scooter off and the resting volts come back - this morning it was at 11.8v.
What's weird is the rectifier can't even light a 12v lightbulb without struggling and choking off the stator.
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Post by christopher on Jan 20, 2020 13:08:24 GMT -5
Reading through this thread have you ever gotten to 14.1 volts DC to your battery? I’m curious if you have a parasitic load somewhere. I would start disconnecting everything as close to the rectifier as you can until you get a 14 volt output.
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Post by dexameth on Jan 20, 2020 13:43:16 GMT -5
Man, I have disconnected EVERYTHING with the same results. Started at the back of the harness: tail light, fuel tank, carburetor, oil tank, then up front... the HCU (Head Control Unit for the lighting) and the flasher relay have been unplugged leaving just the handlebar control switches hooked up (left for kill, right for hi/low, it's weird).
No matter what configuration of what I do will allow full charging volts. When the scooter is running with no rectifier hooked up I can get close to 40v now out of one lead from the new stator but as SOON as you plug in the rectifier it drops voltage coming from the stator. A DC test on the battery will show 12.8v with the scooter off and 12.3v with the scooter running at full RPM with the rectifier plugged in.
On lunch, just now, I changed to a 4-pin regulator/rectifier and bolted it to the frame. Connected it in just like it should be and had the SAME results only this one got to 11v when it dropped compared to 6.5v with the last test. Still, when I turn on the headlights it consistantly drops voltage.
This whole electrical system is driving me NUTS. Literally keeping me awake at night because this should be a simple fix. I've replaced stator, and have tried 3 different regulator/rectifiers now with the SAME DAMN RESULTS. I've rewired my other scoots multiple times, doing custom wiring and it's quite simple. But now this scoot is just unexplainable...
As I type this, I think about the starter relay - I haven't unplugged that yet. The electric start works fine (when the battery is charged) so I don't know how it could cause a drop in voltage when not cranking but I honestly don't know where else to look. Like, do I deflate the tire now? Or put a shorter shock on? I mean come on... I've been thru everything multiple times and I've gotten absolutely nowhere.
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Post by Zino on Jan 20, 2020 14:30:42 GMT -5
Deflate the tire shorter shock I like that,
reminds me of Auto Shop 101
Washing your car and getting new speakers and cranking it up loud always made any car run better.
These wiring gremlins suck
Could you have a pinched wire from taking off and on the seat causing a short .
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Post by dexameth on Jan 20, 2020 16:02:05 GMT -5
Deflate the tire shorter shock I like that, reminds me of Auto Shop 101 Washing your car and getting new speakers and cranking it up loud always made any car run better. These wiring gremlins suck Could you have a pinched wire from taking off and on the seat causing a short . I checked for a pinched or disconnected wire on my lunch break today, all was good. |
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Post by 190mech on Jan 20, 2020 16:17:30 GMT -5
I had a similar condition a few years back,finally found the harness got between the fork turn stop and squashed/shorted 2 wires together..  |
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Post by dexameth on Jan 21, 2020 13:34:52 GMT -5
So this came in today:   Now I can ditch the old digital multimeter I've had on the floorboard as a DC volt meter. Gonna tinker a little bit more tonight after work... Wish me luck. |
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Post by dexameth on Jan 25, 2020 8:01:05 GMT -5
So while I was installing this DC volt meter I also swapped batteries. New (used but good) battery had reverse poles so I hooked it up backwards and I think I damaged the meter haha whoops. It reads 12.4v max at WOT and 11.9 at idle.
I did figure out the issue, I think.
I removed the rectifier and hard wired it directly to the stator then powered a light bulb. Instantly the light bulb lit up but RPMs and voltage dropped again. Weird. Hooked everything up and noticed it was charging with the ground wire from the rectifier removed. Weird! It's been good for a couple days now. Even electric start works.
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Post by dexameth on Jan 30, 2020 16:01:17 GMT -5
Let's get this party started!!! I got the big bore kit installed... WOW. First thing I did was check ring gap. One ring was good at .009" and the other ring was only .006", too tight. I started to file the smaller gapped ring, then remembered I am only using a single ring anyway so I installed the ring that I didn't file. Ripped the stock top end off in about 10 minutes... until I got to the wrist pin circlips.  I could not find my needle nose anywhere, so I took a breather and ran to Harbor Freight for a pack of different styles. Returned home, yanked the piston off and was ready to install the new one. I smeared 2t oil all over everything: piston, wrist pin, bearing, cylinder... then installed it with 2 base gaskets and no head gasket. The single gasket looked like the ports weren't opening up fully so I added the 2nd base gasket and it helped. (Didn't get a pic of the 2 gasket and the ports dangit) I didn't touch any ports, nor the piston.    Everything torqued down, she fired 2nd kick! Sounds great, a little deeper than she was but that was to be expected because of the larger exhaust port. I did a couple rev ups and let her idle for a few, then shut off and cooled. Did that a couple times and then took it around the block, breaking her in the right way. I finished the break in at 930pm. 900am the following day I put around 45 miles on her, cruing the beaches and holding WOT for good periods... she did AMAZING. No worries at all. RPMs were 7900-8500 which I suspected were a little low. After the long ride I swapped to a lighter setup and 9500, saw 9600 a couple times. Felt like a LOT more power past 8500 but that's what the pipe is claimed to make power at. It feels best like 8900ish... but this is all new so we will find out. As far as the electrical, I'm able to electric start now, use high beams as well as low beams, the horn, and the battery is still staying charged. WOO HOO!! |
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Post by dexameth on Jan 30, 2020 16:11:01 GMT -5
And here's the next step:  21mm OKO PWK with powerjet (92, 95, 98 & 100 main jets), UNI filter and the performance intake with carbon reeds. This should compliment very nicely.  But, question: I still use the oil injector so is it okay to run the oil line to this smaller spigot? Is the oil going to mix well enough with the fuel? Now I don't wanna hear "premix this or that", I really wanna know if this port is okay to inject oil into to mix properly.  I'll be installing this in about an hour... I can't wait! Maddy should move pretty well come this weekend. |
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Post by geoffh on Jan 30, 2020 16:37:09 GMT -5
Dexameth,70cc kit? No pre mix,and I know you don't,t want to hear it but it,s Russian roulette without it.
Geoff
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Post by christopher on Jan 30, 2020 16:59:54 GMT -5
I used that hole on my 70cc kit. I did adjust the cable for auto lube so it is running almost wide open at WOT.
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Post by dexameth on Jan 30, 2020 19:36:13 GMT -5
Well...  Reeds are way bigger too!   Look how clean the gasket came off!  Took me a while to figure out how to fit the air filter in there.  |
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Post by dexameth on Jan 31, 2020 7:10:06 GMT -5
So during the carb install I removed the 103 main and installed a 98. Fired right up and idles amazing. Definitely snappier throttle, and when I took off I spun out like crazy... In the dirt but still.
Feels like it's a hair rich coming off idle so I'm gonna lower the needle a notch and see how that helps. Jetting feels right but I gotta check the plug and maybe invest in a CHT gauge. Yeah, I'm a lil crazy building these without knowing the temps, I know. Probably would have saved my Polini 177 in Stella if I was able to see how hot it was getting.
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