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Post by Kenho21 on Mar 20, 2020 23:22:21 GMT -5
It will be good for a daily driver set up like that Alright, I'll build it with just the one gasket and the ~0.75mm squish. |
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Post by Kenho21 on Mar 21, 2020 14:27:21 GMT -5
Got her together! Hopefully smoother sailing from here on out!  |
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Post by jloi on Mar 21, 2020 14:30:55 GMT -5
looks great man
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Post by Kenho21 on Mar 21, 2020 20:06:51 GMT -5
How long after sealing it up should I wait to leak test? Is 4-5 hours good enough for Hondabond to set up or should I wait until tomorrow?
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 21, 2020 23:00:33 GMT -5
Unless it's a rush, I prefer to give sealants overnight to 24 hours. That's to play it safe. It should be able to hold much sooner.
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Post by Kenho21 on Mar 21, 2020 23:11:36 GMT -5
Unless it's a rush, I prefer to give sealants overnight to 24 hours. That's to play it safe. It should be able to hold much sooner. Yeah, that’s kinda what I decided on anyway. Ran out of steam for the day and just decided I’ll get back at it tomorrow. Psyched for the video on the Malossi and Peace Pipe by the way! Sweet idea. |
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Post by Kenho21 on Mar 21, 2020 23:11:52 GMT -5
Going to be working on getting the Koso DB-03 is installed tomorrow most likely. I’ll likely be needing input lol.
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Post by jloi on Mar 21, 2020 23:13:54 GMT -5
I'll be watching you with your Koso hookup. maybe it'll help me with mine.
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Post by Kenho21 on Mar 21, 2020 23:43:25 GMT -5
I'll be watching you with your Koso hookup. maybe it'll help me with mine. Guy at Scooter Tuning installed the DB-03 on his Ruckus/Minarelli swap and said everything went well, so I’m hoping for the same. |
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Post by Kenho21 on Mar 22, 2020 18:29:56 GMT -5
Two air leaks...   I think I can handle the reed valve leak, but what should I do for the crank seal? Is it a rather slow leak and on the shaft of the crankshaft, so should I just let it go and hope it will seal as the grease wears away and it seats itself? |
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Post by tsimi on Mar 22, 2020 19:03:17 GMT -5
Where does the crank seal leak exactly? Is it the inner lip that touches the crankshaft or from the outer edge of the seal that touches the engine case?
If it's the first, I would ignore it. Focus on the intake leak since that can affect carb tuning and idle/driving performance.
To be honest I never could "completely" air seal any of my builds. They usually leaked a tiny bit of air at the crank seal lip that touches the crankshaft.
But never enough that oil or fuel would leak out of it.
IMO, as long no fuel or oil leaks through the crank seal you're good. I mean besides replacing it there is not much you can do about it. And even if you replace it there is no guarantee it won't leak again.
I just replaced my one on my Prebug because a tiny bit of oil started to accumulate around the inner lip and to be honest new or old crank seal, it did not affect my scooter performance at all. It was more a peace of mind replacement.
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Post by Kenho21 on Mar 22, 2020 19:16:05 GMT -5
Where does the crank seal leak exactly? Is it the inner lip that touches the crankshaft or from the outer edge of the seal that touches the engine case? If it's the first, I would ignore it. Focus on the intake leak since that can affect carb tuning and idle/driving performance. To be honest I never could "completely" air seal any of my builds. They usually leaked a tiny bit of air at the crank seal lip that touches the crakshaft. But never enough that oil or fuel would leak out of it. IMO, as long no fuel or oil leaks through the crank seal your good. I mean besides replacing it there is not much you can do about it. And even if you replace it there is no guarantee it won't leak again. I just replaced my one on my Prebug because a tiny bit of oil startet to accumulate around the inner lip and to be honest new or old crank seal, it did not affect my scooter performance at all. It was more of a peace of mind replacement. Yeah, it’s leaking from the lip that touches the crankshaft. I kinda figured there’s not a whole lot I can do for that one. It’s a pretty slow leak too, so I’m not super worried about it. Lots of micro bubbles from the seal between the intake and the reed valve though. I think I’m going to try removing the gasket and just putting some Hondabond on the rubber lip of the intake tube. Good news is I didn’t see any leaks from any of the cylinder seams. Was kinda worried about that spot that had a gouge from some fancy press work trying to get a bearing in. |
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Post by ryan_ott on Mar 22, 2020 19:22:33 GMT -5
Try running the seal in a little deeper. It looks like it’s sitting just on the shoulder to me. It that doesn’t work get OEM Yamaha seals. I never had much luck with those blue ones. Also put a dab of grease on the inside lip prior to assembly.
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Post by Kenho21 on Mar 22, 2020 19:36:05 GMT -5
I’ll try running it in a little deeper. It is already seated past the recess that the C clip sits in, so I thought that was as far as I should go?
I did put a little grease when I installed too.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 23, 2020 7:46:03 GMT -5
IMO it wouldn't hurt to try moving the seal in just a little deeper, but then I'd replace it anyway if it didn't stop leaking. I don't ignore leaks anywhere when I pressure test. I usually try to keep spare seals around because they are a common trouble spot. It may indeed be overkill to replace these with a small leak, because I've tested engines that ran fine and found leaking seals before... but I'd rather know it's sealed while I'm testing.
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