|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Oct 31, 2019 19:50:34 GMT -5
Is a vise not precise enough to use as a press?
|
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on Oct 31, 2019 20:33:13 GMT -5
That should be the gear used on the 2008+, Stage6 has preprsssed assemblies. I’d use a press over a vise, it takes a bit of effort and your likely to crack your vise. I’ve used a jaw puller in the past but a press is the safest.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Oct 31, 2019 21:46:26 GMT -5
i'll steer clear of the vise and head to my buddy's shop then lol
|
|
|
|
Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 31, 2019 23:24:42 GMT -5
some auto parts stores near you may have a press. a good bit of napas do for example but smaller ones dont. most machine shops also will for a few measley dollars. i was going to have an aftermarket toyota shop do mine as i didnt have a press available at the time and they were within a mile of my job but their press wasnt strong enough they had about a 20-25 ton press and my gears were very very tight press. they sent me to a machine shop close by they had a 40 ton press and used a torch for heat but decided it was safest to get the gear opened up slightly and then the other piece pressed in just fine. it was to factory spec so its not like it was going to be an issue and i have lots of miles on those gears since then with no ill effect but i was worried about them removing material.
|
|
|
|
Post by Zino on Nov 1, 2019 7:58:35 GMT -5
It cost me 2 12 packs of Coors light at the auto shop down the street .
He did use a torch to make the gears expand a little bit with a 20 ton the job took about 20 minutes .
I also had him press on a new bearing on the new primary shaft and press it back into the transmission cover.
One tip for you
that worked real well before you swap the gears take your scoot for a run down the road .
Open up your trans the trans cover will be warm and expand a little bit you can knock the primary shaft out with a couple light raps with a rubber mallet.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Nov 1, 2019 17:14:21 GMT -5
I may even buy my own press. Looking at Harbor Freight, they're only $180 and with a coupon I can save about $30 or so...
|
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Nov 2, 2019 3:05:43 GMT -5
Would always come in handy, if you buy one. We could all turn up at your place to press our gears  |
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Nov 2, 2019 8:18:11 GMT -5
If anyone wants to come all the way to MI (not exactly a tourist destination), you’re more than welcome!
|
|
|
|
Post by chehystpewpur on Nov 2, 2019 16:01:57 GMT -5
lmao ive almost bought a press a few times and even the crappy harbor freight ones can be good. when the cylinder goes out you get a better one and you can press alot of things with them at that point. you get more plates and all kinds of shims from bearing races or old broken things you press and can save alot of money on press tools.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Nov 16, 2019 0:16:06 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Nov 16, 2019 5:44:35 GMT -5
CVT cover bolt;Drill a 1/16 hole into the case behind the broken bolt,fill that cavity with liquid wrench and let it sit..After a few hours tap on the end of the broken bolt,the blows tend to loosen the dissimilar metal corrosion between them,get a REAL pair of vice grips on it and rock it back and forth slightly,if no go tap on some more..Heat can help also Allen bolt on tranny cover;Liquid wrench,let sit,get a sharp cold chisel on the outside of the head and tap it counter clockwise..  |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Nov 16, 2019 6:40:32 GMT -5
Hot/cold has always worked for me. I carefully heat the fastener only, to red hot with a oxy/actl rig. Then quench it with lots of water. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 times but the fastener usually backs out easily. I think the heat expands the fastener then the water cools the case at a faster rate than the fastener, enough to break the bond between the dissimilar metals.
Good luck.
|
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on Nov 16, 2019 9:32:48 GMT -5
Also try spraying down the fasteners before you even try breaking them free. Once everything is apart run a tap through to clean out the threads. The number on the case is an engine serial number. Mine never had one when I first got it. My assumption is my engine was replaced before 1500 miles... and many times since.
|
|
|
|
Post by Kenho21 on Nov 16, 2019 11:34:03 GMT -5
Going to pickup some liquid wrench because I don't have a proper penetrant other than WD right now and some other odds and ends. Will be trying some or all of the above as well... wish me luck.
Is there a more universal thread cleaner upper or just a tap is what's generally used?
|
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Nov 16, 2019 17:39:58 GMT -5
The right size tap should be all you need, to clean threads.
|
|
