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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 30, 2019 14:41:02 GMT -5
good point on that one just using a nut and not having to weld. if you do drill it you could always just use a self tapper as much as i had to say it. no tapping required. you could also helicoil and you dont have to do much for that either. your bound to need them anyways if youd like to use original style bolts since you said many bolts were missing or stripped. youd have to tap larger or helicoil to keep the stock size. i used to try to preserve threads alot when i worked on cars but that doesnt make money and there are a million products out there to fix the problem afterwards. spending 2 days on 1 bolt doesnt pay the bills half of the time on cars the threads come with the bolt or the bolt breaks because its steel or pan steel into aluminum and rusted and corroded or was just cross threaded in at the factory and over torqued. sometimes thanks to allmighty loctite rust and corrosion it takes whatever the bolt was threaded into with it on removal.
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 30, 2019 18:59:00 GMT -5
To me it looks like it’s spent sometime outside, riding in the rain and those nice salty Michigan winters. During reassembly some anti seize or just oil on the threads will make life easier the next time. Even if you drill that bolt out and destroy the threads you can always use a nut on the backside. The floorboard on the Zuma is the last to come off so you’ll have access to it when the belly pan is off. I agree, definitely spent some time outside. Sucks that it's kinda hard to tell how these things have been treated until you start tearing into them. So far though, nothing too horrible that I can't work with. Good point about the just replacing it with a nut. You got your thinking cap on, sir. |
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 30, 2019 19:03:03 GMT -5
good point on that one just using a nut and not having to weld. if you do drill it you could always just use a self tapper as much as i had to say it. no tapping required. you could also helicoil and you dont have to do much for that either. your bound to need them anyways if youd like to use original style bolts since you said many bolts were missing or stripped. youd have to tap larger or helicoil to keep the stock size. i used to try to preserve threads alot when i worked on cars but that doesnt make money and there are a million products out there to fix the problem afterwards. spending 2 days on 1 bolt doesnt pay the bills half of the time on cars the threads come with the bolt or the bolt breaks because its steel or pan steel into aluminum and rusted and corroded or was just cross threaded in at the factory and over torqued. sometimes thanks to allmighty loctite rust and corrosion it takes whatever the bolt was threaded into with it on removal. Tapping and a helicoil are definitely an option as well, but I am not a fan of helicoils personally. Not sure if it's me or them, but I've never had crazy success with them staying in. I recently watched a video on some type of alternative. I'll have to see if I can find it. |
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 30, 2019 21:23:14 GMT -5
it takes a few tries to get comfortable with a helicoil but the biggest thing is using the right size drill bit and keeping it straight. break the tang off of it and use the right depth helicoil and there isnt much to worry about especially for a foot rest. i had to use these things for spark plugs on a regular basis and i thought that sounded sketchy. but sadly it held up better than the threads in the stock heads on those stupid fords. they are even recommended to hold heads down on some motors as the stock threads can let go under normal driving or upon removal of the head bolts. if your really concerned about them staying in place you could possibly put some loctite in the hole before you ran the helicoil in and im sure it wouldnt go anywhere in the forseeable future.
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 30, 2019 22:01:57 GMT -5
it takes a few tries to get comfortable with a helicoil but the biggest thing is using the right size drill bit and keeping it straight. break the tang off of it and use the right depth helicoil and there isnt much to worry about especially for a foot rest. i had to use these things for spark plugs on a regular basis and i thought that sounded sketchy. but sadly it held up better than the threads in the stock heads on those stupid fords. they are even recommended to hold heads down on some motors as the stock threads can let go under normal driving or upon removal of the head bolts. if your really concerned about them staying in place you could possibly put some loctite in the hole before you ran the helicoil in and im sure it wouldnt go anywhere in the forseeable future. Yeah, that's what I've heard others say about helicoils as well. Someone even told me that some nascar teams use them, so I'm sure it's user error in my case. If I end up stripping the threads though, that's probably the route I'll go. Just to save the hassle of losing another nut all of the time haha. |
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 31, 2019 3:30:24 GMT -5
good point on that one just using a nut and not having to weld. if you do drill it you could always just use a self tapper as much as i had to say it. no tapping required. you could also helicoil and you dont have to do much for that either. your bound to need them anyways if youd like to use original style bolts since you said many bolts were missing or stripped. youd have to tap larger or helicoil to keep the stock size. i used to try to preserve threads alot when i worked on cars but that doesnt make money and there are a million products out there to fix the problem afterwards. spending 2 days on 1 bolt doesnt pay the bills half of the time on cars the threads come with the bolt or the bolt breaks because its steel or pan steel into aluminum and rusted and corroded or was just cross threaded in at the factory and over torqued. sometimes thanks to allmighty loctite rust and corrosion it takes whatever the bolt was threaded into with it on removal. Tapping and a helicoil are definitely an option as well, but I am not a fan of helicoils personally. Not sure if it's me or them, but I've never had crazy success with them staying in. I recently watched a video on some type of alternative. I'll have to see if I can find it. Brent has a time-sert video. Probably what you are thinking of. |
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 31, 2019 6:53:36 GMT -5
Tapping and a helicoil are definitely an option as well, but I am not a fan of helicoils personally. Not sure if it's me or them, but I've never had crazy success with them staying in. I recently watched a video on some type of alternative. I'll have to see if I can find it. Brent has a time-sert video. Probably what you are thinking of. Yes! That’s exactly what I’m thinking of. If it’s useful and related to scooters in any way, I should’ve been able to guess that source haha. Thanks! |
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 31, 2019 10:15:29 GMT -5
i always forget about these things due to how much harder they are to get ahold of. they are recommended by gm when removing heads on some of their aluminum block engines in the past that used loctite on the head bolts. the mixture of metal aluminum and coolant getting into the threads makes it pretty much impossible to get the old head bolts out and new ones to torque properly. at some point the threads go poof and waste your day. these are stronger than a helicoil by a good deal and you dont have to worry about the helicoil binding in the hole and causing bigger issues. also nice if you dont have a steady hand or made a mistake when drilling the bolt out and the hole ovals.
if you have some epoxy laying around and a proper size nut though it will be alot cheaper to epoxy the nut where the old nut was tack welded to the foot rest bracket and you dont have to worry about the nut falling off it will stay put for a long time and way less time if you can knock that old nut off easily.
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 31, 2019 11:45:34 GMT -5
JB Welb will probably be the route I go. Sadly, going out of town for the weekend and not going to have any time to mess with it. When I get back I should have at least a day or to spend on it.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 31, 2019 14:19:44 GMT -5
hey atleast its a simple easy solution. should be quick and painless. and sounds like your not too hot on heading out of town so that sucks. good luck and stay safe.
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 31, 2019 16:09:09 GMT -5
ryan_ott You swapped to 13/43 gears at some point, didn't you? I was looking at the Stage6 gears I was planning on buying and they say I need a 14 tooth intermediate gear. The ST website even says I'll need to replace the intermediate gear... is this the case for our Zumas? If so, where do I find a 14 tooth intermediate gear, any ideas? The plot always seems to thicken...
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Post by Zino on Oct 31, 2019 16:24:42 GMT -5
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Post by Zino on Oct 31, 2019 16:37:20 GMT -5
I used the athena 14/42 gears to get to the magic 11 to 1 final gear ratio withe 2002 -2005 zuma.
If you use the polini 44/13 or Malossi 44/13 or doppler 15/50 gets you in that 11 to 1 range With the 2008-2011 zuma.
If you go 14/42 with 2008 -2011 you get down to around 10 to 1 final gear ratio .
Upping the gears was the single biggest increase in top end that I was able to do so far added 8 mph You just have to pair it with a bbk so you can push them all the way out .
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 31, 2019 19:46:48 GMT -5
I can probably gain access to a press. By swapping the intermediate gearsthat doesn't mess with the gear ratio/final drive though? |
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 31, 2019 19:49:24 GMT -5
I used the athena 14/42 gears to get to the magic 11 to 1 final gear ratio withe 2002 -2005 zuma. If you use the polini 44/13 or Malossi 44/13 or doppler 15/50 gets you in that 11 to 1 range With the 2008-2011 zuma. If you go 14/42 with 2008 -2011 you get down to around 10 to 1 final gear ratio . Upping the gears was the single biggest increase in top end that I was able to do so far added 8 mph You just have to pair it with a bbk so you can push them all the way out . Since there is a 13/43 option out there, I figure I might as well use that since it gets me closest to the final result I'd like (that magic 11:1 ratio). It's probably going to be a bit more of a pain in the ass, but worth it in the long run I think. And with all the other options I'm already dealing with having to press gears anyway, so I might as well get exactly what I want. At the very least, it'll satisfy my OCD. |
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