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Post by Zino on Oct 22, 2019 21:36:30 GMT -5
by your thumb
in the bottom picture the one by your thumb is for over flow of oil from the air filter you need a clear tube attached to that that is closed shut on one end zip tied or hose clamped on. .
you want it to be air tight
the hole by your pointer finger is for the catalytic converter air supply for the stock exhaust .
you wont need it plug it up tight.
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 22, 2019 21:38:59 GMT -5
by your thumb in the bottom picture the one by your thumb is for over flow of oil from the air filter you need a clear tube attached to that that is closed shut on one end zip tied or hose clamped on. . you want it to be air tight the hole by your pointer finger is for the catalytic converter air supply for the stock exhaust . you wont need it plug it up tight. Awesome! Thank you! |
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 23, 2019 9:38:55 GMT -5
ryan_ott did you happen to install a “third support” bearing with your gears? And if you did, do you have the dimensions handy?
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Post by ryan_ott on Oct 23, 2019 10:45:01 GMT -5
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 23, 2019 11:54:31 GMT -5
Ohh okay sweet. Got the idea in my head from one of Brent's recent videos, but I know he mostly messes with the Chinese stuff. |
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 23, 2019 14:30:53 GMT -5
i really like the method my old boss gave me whether or not other people do it just makes life easier. if you have a crank installer it would be simpler than shaving a tiny bit of material off but i dont own one and wont buy one at this point. this is cheaper and hasnt given a problem with many motors ive seen it on including my own.
as for the air box that is a goofy looking one mine didnt have any holes either in it but the exhaust had a tube going to a filter and then the filter went to a closed hole on the frame lol. they made it look like it supplied air but it did nothing.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 23, 2019 15:18:00 GMT -5
Ohh okay sweet. Got the idea in my head from one of Brent's recent videos, but I know he mostly messes with the Chinese stuff. Just for reassurance, I took the time to put a Zuma gearbox together and a clone with standard and 3rd support setups and the Zuma's standard setup had as little play as anything. The 3rd support did do a little better, like 0.001", I think... but it had brand new bearings and the Zuma gearbox still had used bearings. |
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 23, 2019 17:34:38 GMT -5
Ohh okay sweet. Got the idea in my head from one of Brent's recent videos, but I know he mostly messes with the Chinese stuff. Just for reassurance, I took the time to put a Zuma gearbox together and a clone with standard and 3rd support setups and the Zuma's standard setup had as little play as anything. The 3rd support did do a little better, like 0.001", I think... but it had brand new bearings and the Zuma gearbox still had used bearings. Appreciate that. On my Jog there is a ton of slack, that’s why I was concerned in the first place. As long as there isn’t lots of play, I’m cool with it. Want to be able to run it with the CVT cover off briefly just to check belt travel and stuff and on my Jog that would definitely be a bad idea. I assume as long as there’s not too much play, I should be good to go, right? |
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Post by Zino on Oct 23, 2019 18:27:32 GMT -5
The zuma runs fine with the cover off
I run with mine off when I am dialing in the trans and running a hour of tuning runs .
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 23, 2019 18:30:12 GMT -5
There's no bearing under this cover, so I don't see why it would matter to not have the cover as far as support. Gonna be kinda hard to kick start it without the cover. The cover does add structural rigidity to the "swingarm". Not sure how the Zumas are. We have had a couple of people break clones in half without a cover. Basically, I just limit the time without a cover to what time I actually need to observe something.
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Post by ryan_ott on Oct 23, 2019 20:56:27 GMT -5
Without the cover I’d limit time to the absolute minimum, it’s a structural part. As Brent mentioned some have broke cases without the cvt cover in place. Most items can be observed on the stand with a brake dragging to load up the engine. Be safe!
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 23, 2019 21:36:16 GMT -5
I will keep all of that in mind. Probably be able to so a little CVT cover venting and avoid running it without the cover altogether.
Now my first issue and next question haha... Just got my crankshaft and went to slide my variator on to make sure everything would work and it doesn't fit. My crankshaft has a 13mm splined end and all my variators are 12mm (or whatever is the stock size) it appears. So, I'm going to need a new variator (things are definitely getting pricey at this point) and am unsure of which route I should go. Does anyone know of a decent 13mm variator and front pulley to hold me over until I get an over range? If it's going to be very much money though, I may just go for the over range right off the bat to save money in the long run.
Second, will my stock woodruff key fit this crank as far as anyone knows? Trying to have my ducks in a row as much as possible before I get this build going.
Lastly, the crank says it requires a 73mm case bore. Am I going to need to bore my case somehow?
Sorry for all the questions and don't mean to be asking silly ones, but these are the only things I have not been able to figure out on my own thus far.
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 23, 2019 21:40:01 GMT -5
Just watched a second of one of your videos Brent (the TPR crank video) and looks like my stock crank bore should be good since yours were ~74mm stock.
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Post by ryan_ott on Oct 23, 2019 21:45:37 GMT -5
Crank, key and variator should all fit without issues. Maybe try a different boss for the variator. Variator bore are all the same, the boss will have a different ID depending on the application.
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 23, 2019 22:06:32 GMT -5
Sorry, I'm talking about the plate (variator cover?) that slides on with the variator and holds the weights in... is this the same diameter as well? Just sticking for me for some reason then? I can mess around with it again tomorrow.
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