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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 23, 2019 23:04:24 GMT -5
The ramp plate should work. I think 13mm is the smallest. Can't swear there's not some oddball, but I'd guess maybe something is buggered up. My Malossi star washer/key wouldn't fit on the splines out of the box, even though it was the same size. May have to look it over and see if the ramp plate (that part that holds the rollers in) looks clean on the splined area. A small triangular file (you can get cheap kits at Harbor Freight) works well for cleanup when needed.
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 24, 2019 6:08:34 GMT -5
I have one of those rectangular files for some reason. Almost returned it once, but kept it. My scooter part and tool hoarding just came in handy hahaha.
I knew it was super close, but when I couldn’t slide it right on and measured with my $20 calipers and unsteady hands, I lead myself to believe they were different sizes. That combined with the fact Scooter Tuning lists a 13mm size on some of their variators. I think they do that just to differentiate the Polini stuff from one another since some of it uses that 16mm smooth sleeve over the splined shaft.
Anyway, whew! So used to buying parts and then having to buy more parts haha. I was ready to buy an over range kit. Gladly do a little filing this time!
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 25, 2019 19:41:41 GMT -5
Is my 08 Zuma a long or short case? Long case?
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Post by ryan_ott on Oct 25, 2019 19:49:18 GMT -5
Long case.
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 29, 2019 21:52:03 GMT -5
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 29, 2019 22:13:00 GMT -5
Its current overall state...  Yamaha did not skimp on the amount of screws and plastic on these things. |
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Post by nelson on Oct 29, 2019 22:35:30 GMT -5
You can cut a slot in it with a dremel and back it out with a flat head. Make sure to soak it in pb or wd. Once you have a good deep grove tap the corner or the groove in the direction you want it to go. Once it moves should be good
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 30, 2019 4:00:11 GMT -5
I don't know if you have it in the U.S. But plusgas is very good at getting this sort of thing out.
I have used both hammer right smooth paint, and Simoniz tough black when painting frames before. Both work well.
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 30, 2019 6:45:37 GMT -5
You can cut a slot in it with a dremel and back it out with a flat head. Make sure to soak it in pb or wd. Once you have a good deep grove tap the corner or the groove in the direction you want it to go. Once it moves should be good It’s basically completely flush with the surface, so not sure how much of a slot I’ll be able to cut, but was going to give that a shot. Worse comes to worst, that slot turns into a starting point for the backward drill bit to seat itself and hopefully do the job lol. |
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 30, 2019 6:49:51 GMT -5
I don't know if you have it in the U.S. But plusgas is very good at getting this sort of thing out. I have used both hammer right smooth paint, and Simoniz tough black when painting frames before. Both work well. Doesn’t look like we have that specific spray in the US, but I think we have things like it. Probably just going to be doing lots of sanding and covering with whatever kind of “tough” paint is available. I think I’ll give it a wipe down with muriatic acid and water mixture prior to painting to hopefully eat away all the microscopic rust beforehand. Just always terrified at the thought of the rust continuing to worsen beneath whatever I put on it. |
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Post by Zino on Oct 30, 2019 7:32:29 GMT -5
Rustoleum has great products for fixing rust.
I use the ezout type drill bit that is reverse thread called "grab it"
Harbor freight or Lowe's is where i got it from
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 30, 2019 7:37:36 GMT -5
Rustoleum has great products for fixing rust. I use the ezout type drill bit that is reverse thread called "grab it" Harbor freight or Lowe's is where i got it from Pretty sure that’s the same extractor set I have. Worked great to get the oil pump screws out on my Jog. Believe I already have to Rustoleum laying around for paint and primer too, so that’ll probably be the plan. |
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 30, 2019 9:33:55 GMT -5
if you cant get the bolt out drill it out. or if your lazy and have a welder just knock that little nut off that its stuck in and tack weld a new nut back on and your done. if you have a propane torch some heat will help alot with getting it to free up. heat the area around the bold but try to heat the bolt as little as possible. it will make the threads expand but not the bolt and give it some wiggle room/break the rust free.
undercoat is also a pretty good sealer to stop rust as it doesnt let it breathe anymore and since its rubberized it seals.
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Post by Kenho21 on Oct 30, 2019 11:58:44 GMT -5
if you cant get the bolt out drill it out. or if your lazy and have a welder just knock that little nut off that its stuck in and tack weld a new nut back on and your done. if you have a propane torch some heat will help alot with getting it to free up. heat the area around the bold but try to heat the bolt as little as possible. it will make the threads expand but not the bolt and give it some wiggle room/break the rust free. undercoat is also a pretty good sealer to stop rust as it doesnt let it breathe anymore and since its rubberized it seals. I'm trying to avoid drilling it out because I would like the preserve the threads. I don't have access to a welder or I'd try tack welding onto the nub and unscrewing. Saving drilling and tapping as a last resort though. Definitely going to be using some heat too. Should've done that in the first place. Undercoat is an option, but I prefer to go with something that will match the original finish a little more closely. I think I may just go with a good sanding, rust "neutralizer" of some sort and then paint and clear. A LOT of the bolts on this thing are way tight. Not sure if someone did this, they came from the factory like this, or the elements are responsible. |
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Post by ryan_ott on Oct 30, 2019 12:06:36 GMT -5
To me it looks like it’s spent sometime outside, riding in the rain and those nice salty Michigan winters. During reassembly some anti seize or just oil on the threads will make life easier the next time. Even if you drill that bolt out and destroy the threads you can always use a nut on the backside. The floorboard on the Zuma is the last to come off so you’ll have access to it when the belly pan is off.
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