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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 26, 2019 23:36:38 GMT -5
Yes, you can gain a little clearance without that collar.
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Post by ryan_ott on Nov 26, 2019 23:46:59 GMT -5
That writing is from the manufacturing facility. Both of my cases have it.
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Post by Kenho21 on Nov 27, 2019 6:43:20 GMT -5
That writing is from the manufacturing facility. Both of my cases have it. That makes me feel a little better. |
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Post by chehystpewpur on Nov 28, 2019 21:47:08 GMT -5
i havent seen markings like that before but most likely is like a serial batch or inspector number or something. big manufacturing industries use them all the time but run it through a stamping machine all the time like your engine code on the top of the case. and what style blind hole puller do you have? they are life saver but can be a pain to use sometimes if your not familiar with them.
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Post by Kenho21 on Nov 28, 2019 21:55:33 GMT -5
It’s just the cheap puller you see all over eBay or whatever. No matter how I try to secure the puller in the bearing, it just pops out with ease the first time you pull. It did work on one bearing though. The end of the bolt that screws into the puller and spreads it even started crumbling on one of them. Just cheap. I’m sure a quality puller would work much better.
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Post by 190mech on Nov 28, 2019 23:22:48 GMT -5
Warm the cases up with a propane torch or heat gun around the bearings,they should fall out then,,
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Post by Kenho21 on Nov 28, 2019 23:27:59 GMT -5
Warm the cases up with a propane torch or heat gun around the bearings,they should fall out then,, I'll give it a shot, but I have very little faith in this puller. Heat does work wonders though... |
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Post by 190mech on Nov 28, 2019 23:37:47 GMT -5
Aluminum expands waay quicker than steel,so heat is your friend..Get it hot,flip it over and bump the case against an old 2X4 wood block that all backyard builders have laying on the floor..  |
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Post by chehystpewpur on Nov 30, 2019 16:59:32 GMT -5
if its the one with all the fingers you can use a hose clamp to get the fingers to close a little farther to get a bigger size in sometimes. always make sure that that ridge sticking up on the end is just inside of the bearing wiggle it in and out some till it snugs up to make sure its up against the lip before you expand the tool to bite. if it has any slip when you start slide hammering it will pop right out.
if its the style with the 2 fingers with a roll pin through it and you turn it sideways to get through the bearing keep outward pressure on it or it will pop through.
if all else fails heat the cases some and tap it with a socket and it should just about fall out. or if you have a work bench that is pretty handy you could put the puller end in the bearing and tap the back side of the puller with a tapered punch as that will spread the fingers out and keep it from sliding though if your lucky. also i doubt this is the case but just to make sure there arent any retaining clips or anything holding them in are there? ive seen it before with seasoned mechanics and not very inclined people alike so it does happen.
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Post by Kenho21 on Nov 30, 2019 18:45:23 GMT -5
I may give it another shot with the puller, but I really think they’re just too cheap to work. The metal starts to crumble when I expand them. I may try a different bolt or something and could grind it down on the ends to somewhat match the profile of the ones that came with it.
May be one tool I just actually have to spend some money on.
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Post by jloi on Nov 30, 2019 19:27:41 GMT -5
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Post by chehystpewpur on Nov 30, 2019 20:21:29 GMT -5
aha thank you jloi for reminding me of something. go to the car parts store and rent a blind hole puller. or a pilot bearing puller set. if your a cheap old coot like i am. you can use a deep well socket or shallow thats wide enough to catch around the bearing. or stack a couple things to make the hole bigger than bearing. make sure the hole is big enough to fit some all thread through. you can get it at parts stores or some hardware stores. all thread is a bolt but its all threads. try to get atleast 5/16 or 1/2" if you can fit it through the bearing.
get some nuts that fit the all thread and some washers that fit tight get a few like 10. all thread is a couple bucks a foot usually so its really cheap. like 5-10 bucks to make crappy puller. put all thread through the bearing put 2 washers on the back side use 2 nuts on the end of the all thread. it helps keep the nut from comming off. you tighten the nuts together and it basically makes a knot. then stick spacer you found like a socket over the bearing where its gonna come out then use the side that goes on the ratchet to tighten the other nut and washers on. the washers will bend some and thats why you got many. get it nice and tight and tap the case on the outside around the bearing with a small hammer but not on any sealing surfaces but very close to the crank case seals. the vibrations will get the bearing to "jump" and let you tighten nut some more. go a few more times and it should noticeably have moved if it doesnt just come out.
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Post by Kenho21 on Nov 30, 2019 22:31:33 GMT -5
Pretty sure mine is of Harbor Freight quality as well. Probably from the same factory. |
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Post by Kenho21 on Nov 30, 2019 22:32:35 GMT -5
aha thank you jloi for reminding me of something. go to the car parts store and rent a blind hole puller. or a pilot bearing puller set. if your a cheap old coot like i am. you can use a deep well socket or shallow thats wide enough to catch around the bearing. or stack a couple things to make the hole bigger than bearing. make sure the hole is big enough to fit some all thread through. you can get it at parts stores or some hardware stores. all thread is a bolt but its all threads. try to get atleast 5/16 or 1/2" if you can fit it through the bearing. get some nuts that fit the all thread and some washers that fit tight get a few like 10. all thread is a couple bucks a foot usually so its really cheap. like 5-10 bucks to make crappy puller. put all thread through the bearing put 2 washers on the back side use 2 nuts on the end of the all thread. it helps keep the nut from comming off. you tighten the nuts together and it basically makes a knot. then stick spacer you found like a socket over the bearing where its gonna come out then use the side that goes on the ratchet to tighten the other nut and washers on. the washers will bend some and thats why you got many. get it nice and tight and tap the case on the outside around the bearing with a small hammer but not on any sealing surfaces but very close to the crank case seals. the vibrations will get the bearing to "jump" and let you tighten nut some more. go a few more times and it should noticeably have moved if it doesnt just come out. I'll give that a shot when I get back home and have a little time to mess with it. Thanks for the info. Appreciate all the help I can get. |
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Post by jloi on Dec 1, 2019 9:36:48 GMT -5
yeah, I tied renting - buy and return from auto parts; at that time, but they didn't have the right one. thinking long threaded bolt - threads would be stronger than all thread - I think.. ? and some kind of small steel plate with hole drilled in it. impact sockets work great too.
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