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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 17, 2020 19:22:55 GMT -5
Having trouble with CVT my belt broke it was a Bando belt and I switched to a Kevlar belt which is 750 mm long a few more than the Bando and now the belt sits pretty low in the rear pulley the picture you’re showing above Is of CVT with the Bando belt when it was running smooth
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 18, 2020 0:36:03 GMT -5
Did you clean and check the whole CVT after the belt broke? Could be rollers/sliders out of place in the vari not letting it open as it should or something like that after a belt fail. Is the new belt wider?
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 18, 2020 8:06:22 GMT -5
Yes the new belt is a little bit wider , the rollers were all fine I even switched back to stock variator but no luck. This did allow me to notice the belt was not riding on the bottom or the low gear so I sanded it flat a little with a draw file n sand paper this should allow the wider belt to sit at full low gear am I correct in my approach?
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 18, 2020 8:07:29 GMT -5
I only sanded the center we’re belt would not reach ofcoArse
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 18, 2020 10:15:05 GMT -5
Oh and I ordered a new stage6 street race set up the cylinder was usable but the rings were stuck n one broke of in a groove so n e way I. Excited to see how they compare seeing as i have already had a polini n a Malossi Sport i went with because it Is supposed to have a wider and higher revving power band.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 18, 2020 13:55:30 GMT -5
Removing material there may help. The easy way is to try shimming a little. Even 0.5mm makes a nice difference sometimes.
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 20, 2020 22:50:25 GMT -5
Plus it’s a few of the clutch springs when the bell l came off and just then did I realize after 5+ years of scooter time that the clutch n the rear pulley r two interchangeable Andy separate parts 🤷🏻♂️💡🎇Once realizing that I quickly took apart my clothes on Delta flight that looks very similar to a stage six torque control Anyway here’s a pic of the old clutch somewhat of an upgrade I assume probably Taiwanese never seen a brand SLT before
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 20, 2020 22:53:21 GMT -5
OSo I’m running an Athena evolution kit with that exhaust leak and a polini corsa head with no groove flat gasket style he pg pipe .... if the belt situation was fixed I’m sure this set up would actually have me very impressed as I’m not too disappointed with it but I know for sure once I get the stage six Street raise in my mailbox I have a feeling it will work awesome with the PG pipe 👌🤞🚨.
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Post by islandscrub on Jan 21, 2020 17:20:45 GMT -5
I'm a bit confused here.
You have a running 100cc (black rexy) And a parts rexy that's a 70?
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Post by islandscrub on Jan 21, 2020 17:25:41 GMT -5
The stock belt is 747-16-28, anything fatter than 16 will ride higher on takeoff. That clutch you posted pics of is done, the spring holes are all stretched out!
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 21, 2020 20:10:39 GMT -5
I'm a bit confused here. You have a running 100cc (black rexy) And a parts rexy that's a 70? It did not turn out to be a 100cc. Initially 808ministroke thought it was a 100cc built at Motosource.
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 27, 2020 8:49:34 GMT -5
Install the stage six street raceWas not too impressed by the casting on the portsBut the rings and the head were nice I chose this one because I’ve already ran Malossi n Polini Sport n wanna see if there is any difference One study was showing that this one had lower peak horsepower then the previous two mentioned above stage6 is supposed to make alotmore power at 11 and 12 rpm as the power band does not drop off immediately.... I’ll let you guys know How true that is but so far every night for two or three tanks as well as fix the CVT issues by replacing the fixed variator fees with a stock one and she’s riding pretty good
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 29, 2020 20:05:13 GMT -5
F#*$&$&k! Part of my fixed half by s6 literally melted onto my crank arm. So the bushing and the ramp are still unable to be removed I was able to flake away small bits of it what would be the best way to try to remove the melted center off my arm without damaging splines hopefully?.... Can i melt it off using a butane torch since it’s aluminum or would I be better off trying a different method anyone ?
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 29, 2020 20:27:30 GMT -5
F#*$&$&k! Part of my fixed half by s6 literally melted onto my crank arm. So the bushing and the ramp are still unable to be removed I was able to flake away small bits of it what would be the best way to try to remove the melted center off my arm without damaging splines hopefully?.... Can i melt it off using a butane torch since it’s aluminum or would I be better off trying a different method anyone ? Is it "melted" or galled? I would not use a torch. Applying heat like that might anneal the crank metal and soften it (annealing makes metal softer) leading to future issues. I would use a file to remove the bulk of the aluminum. When you get close to base metal (crankshaft steel) switch to sand paper to clean the remaining aluminum from the shaft.
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 30, 2020 0:51:18 GMT -5
Thx I’ll try that I assume melted since so much of it fused in a thin layer the arms of the star washer were all gone odd enough it was still running when I took it apart the center of the star still hadsplines and had made its way threw most of the s6 drive face!
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