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Post by rockyrides on Nov 30, 2019 22:38:38 GMT -5
Greetings from North Myrtle Beach, SC. I bought a 2017 Honda Metropolitan NCW50. Looking forward to tuning it up over the winter, and cruising to the beach when the weather warms. I heard of you guys from a user on Reddit. There seems to be a lot of info and parts out there for the older Honda Mets, but not so much for the NCWs. Hoping to find some advice and pointers from the community. For example, how do I know what variator and weights are compatible which my scoot? Or, if I want to do a CDI mod, where can a get the compatible box? Anyway, I’ll be digging through the awesome content on here, but always welcome advice or tips from other NCW50 owners. ✌️
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Post by jbjhillbilly on Nov 30, 2019 23:08:46 GMT -5
Welcome!
On the road right now, but I’m sure one of good folks here will know a bit about your bike.
Variator rollers are by dimension and weight. Dimension is bike fitment, weight is for tuning the transmission.
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Post by lilpinny on Dec 1, 2019 1:04:40 GMT -5
Happypancake! should know where to get the box to chip it. Somewhere in Japan.
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Post by rockyrides on Dec 1, 2019 10:03:12 GMT -5
Welcome! On the road right now, but I’m sure one of good folks here will know a bit about your bike. Variator rollers are by dimension and weight. Dimension is bike fitment, weight is for tuning the transmission. Is there a guide on variator dimensions? I did see one in the forum’s tech library or on Google. Weight seems to be a trial and error type thing based on scoot config and driver weight. Another odd ball question... does engine oil type really matter? I was going to just use the synthetic Walmart 5w-30 that I always use. I know there is “motorcycle grade” oil out there- is that just a marketing gimmick? 🙃 |
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Post by rockyrides on Dec 1, 2019 10:04:35 GMT -5
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Post by rockyrides on Dec 1, 2019 14:49:26 GMT -5
Greetings from North Myrtle Beach, SC. I bought a 2017 Honda Metropolitan NCW50. Looking forward to tuning it up over the winter, and cruising to the beach when the weather warms. I heard of you guys from a user on Reddit. There seems to be a lot of info and parts out there for the older Honda Mets, but not so much for the NCWs. Hoping to find some advice and pointers from the community. For example, how do I know what variator and weights are compatible which my scoot? Or, if I want to do a CDI mod, where can a get the compatible box? Anyway, I’ll be digging through the awesome content on here, but always welcome advice or tips from other NCW50 owners. ✌️ Great instructions from Happypancake!! 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/20510/happypancake-honda-metropolitan-build?page=2#post-320297 . Step 1 is tune the CVT, before messing around with CDI. 👍 |
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Post by Happypancake! on Dec 1, 2019 16:01:43 GMT -5
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Post by rockyrides on Dec 1, 2019 20:09:47 GMT -5
I’ll reach out to Rolling Wrench. They have tons of cool stuff for the <2015s but nothing for the latest generation on their website. Thanks! |
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Post by aeroxbud on Dec 2, 2019 8:04:09 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum.
Not really a data base on standard roller weights, as you get better performance from an aftermarket brand variator. So most people change them.
I personally wouldn't use car oil in my scooter. It might be the same weight. But car oil is designed to a different specification.
A lot of people do though.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Dec 3, 2019 4:43:31 GMT -5
rockyrides, regarding engine oils. I am in aeroxbuds camp on this one, but I can give a bit of detail for your decision. I formerly was in fuels and lubes manufacturing...and lucky enough to do some testing. The short answer to your gimmick question is no. Not a gimmick, really. There is a formulation variance based on friction ratios and such...given rpm ranges and overall heat generated. The reality, though is just additive differences. ANY oil sold in the US must go through very expensive testing. There are not very many qualified testing labs for that reason. (My former employer did all oils and fuels testing for the West Coast, no matter the manufacturer) So, for each and every formula, the oils must be tested and meet multiple standards. The true "gimmick" is in recommended oil change intervals, usually given for standard passenger cars and trucks. Most will say 3000 to 5000 miles. Total bullsquat. In the early 60's, motor oil recommendation were 3000. All base oil blends with no synthetic stocks. I will tell you from extensive testing on our vehicles, (and other test results) that we go 7000 to 10,000 between intervals on four stroke cars and trucks, using synthetics. That is with grade 4 and 5 motor oils. Avoid grade 3's. That is a gimmick loop hole. A grade 3 has cheap base oils blended with grade 4's. SHIT. What you need to be concerned with IMO...is a few factors working against you. First, you have tiny oil capacity, yet still generate a lot of energy. Second, you have constant oil and fuel contamination in your crankcase. Every other cycle has a bit of residual surface contact with your crankcase oil as it whips around. Oil molecules quickly make love to other oil molecules. They bond. Gasoline, motor oil and 2T oils all come from the same place. So my opinion is this: If you change crankcase oil often, as I do? Who cares what it is? (Car or MC) If you tend to go longer and wait until you smell bad shit happening? Use properly formulated oils. It offers longer protection. Last word: I live in SE Asia, so run synthetic 30W. (no need for multi-vis) Cold here is 24C.(75 degrees F) I change my oil when I smell too much fuel or 2T oil. Often! I know that does not solve your problem... You can if you are serious, drain it, let it sit in a glass jar, sealed for a day and see what happens. The motor oil should be at the bottom, 2T oil just a bit lighter, but often remains mixed, though you might see a color change, and petrol on top. Hopefully that gives you an idea to compare cost of changes versus cost of purchases. For me, it is such a small amount that I do not worry about it. The used oil goes into chain saw oiler's. Recycle to extinction. The gardeners/landscapers love us motor heads.
My edit: MC rated oils are primarily due to wet clutch applications, where there is extreme thermal and friction actions. In a CVT, there is non of that, everything in power transmission is external, thus just a quantity versus quality issue. The MC formulas do have extra corrosion inhibitors. Good for old engines to become elderly. Like my personal direction. I am old but trying to become elderly with injections of love and imperial stouts.
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Post by rockyrides on Dec 3, 2019 8:06:56 GMT -5
MC rated oils are primarily due to wet clutch applications, where there is extreme thermal and friction actions. In a CVT, there is non of that, everything in power transmission is external, thus just a quantity versus quality issue. The MC formulas do have extra corrosion inhibitors. Good for old engines to become elderly. Like my personal direction. I am old but trying to become elderly with injections of love and imperial stouts. [/div][/quote] ThaiGyro, sending a stout your way 🍺 😁. I appreciate the remarks. I change the oil in my vehicles pretty frequently so it gets expensive. The Walmart Super Tech brand synthetic oil is like $15 for 5 quarts compared to $30 for a premium brand. That said, the scooter takes about .68 quarts oil. I think I can step up my game for the price of a quart oil premium MC oil. |
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Post by Zino on Dec 3, 2019 9:10:46 GMT -5
With 4 strokes the rpms have a upper limit that the cdi's protect you from hitting you can get a performance cdi but it adds hundreds not 1000's to the rpm limit.
So a best bang for the buck
Add a performance variator to get a higher final gear ratio and then tune it so you still have similar take off.
Next steps
No replacement for displacement add a big block kit more power top to bottom so you can increase gear ratio further.
Run bigger tires change out gears.
Swap out CDI to pick up more rpms .
Just buy for the cool factor
pipes do way more for sound than performance on 4 strokes
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Post by rockyrides on Dec 4, 2019 10:14:45 GMT -5
With 4 strokes the rpms have a upper limit that the cdi's protect you from hitting you can get a performance cdi but it adds hundreds not 1000's to the rpm limit. So a best bang for the buck Add a performance variator to get a higher final gear ratio and then tune it so you still have similar take off. Next steps No replacement for displacement add a big block kit more power top to bottom so you can increase gear ratio further. Run bigger tires change out gears. Swap out CDI to pick up more rpms . Just buy for the cool factor pipes do way more for sound than performance on 4 strokes Awesome thanks. So how do I figure out which variator will fit this scoot. I’m struggling to find the part from searching on part sites. Is there a particular size or spec I should be searching for? Same question for a CDI. |
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Post by Zino on Dec 4, 2019 18:24:14 GMT -5
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Post by Tanuki on Dec 5, 2019 0:08:45 GMT -5
Sorry to say the met thats compatable with the ruckus stopped being produced in '09. The newer met has much less available gofas parts. (From what I hear, anyway) good luck man! |
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