|
|
Post by Zino on Aug 21, 2020 8:08:11 GMT -5
Minarelli
|
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on Aug 21, 2020 8:19:54 GMT -5
You are correct! Now for the bonus question Lucass. Do you know what motor the cylinder kit is intended to be used on? I am gonna guess minarelli horizontal because coolant port location. All other brands (Piaggio, minarelli AM6 and Derbi) have a coolant port in the base of the cylinder which isnt handy I assume. |
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Aug 21, 2020 8:23:41 GMT -5
I bet this is a piaggio cylinder.
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Aug 21, 2020 9:54:53 GMT -5
It is the horizontal Mina cylinder kit. I am also trying to use the TP 44/85 crank meant for the minarelli. I just have to fit a 90mm con rod and it should good. There are a few other obstacles in the way of using this kit, but I should be able to work them out.
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Aug 23, 2020 0:35:23 GMT -5
One thing that has to happen if I am to move forward using the TP 86cc cylinder on this build is to change the rod on the crank from one that is 85mm long to one that is 90mm long. That means I have to take a crank apart, which is something I have never done. Lucky for me 190mech has been coaching me on the details and he also provided pictures of the crank splitting fixture he made. I stopped by the scrap yard Friday just before closing and just happened to find a roughly 4" OD pipe I thought would make a good fixture. The pipe was about 6' long and connected to the remains of some kind of lift. It just happened to be in reach of the guy who was cutting stuff up using a big cutting torch rig. I asked him to cut me a roughly 16" section of the pipe out, he did it in about 3 min flat. I kicked it over to a puddle to cool it off and picked it up, the friggin thing was HEAVY. It turned out to weigh 14.5 lbs, I paid them $3.50 for it and headed for scootopia. After I cleaned it up and got a good look at it I found it was 5/16 wall pipe, really thick stuff and waaay overkill for what I needed, but the scrap yard was closed so I made it work. I put it in the band saw and after about 5 minutes chopped one of the torched ends off. I measured 7" and chopped it again. It came out fairly square but not perfect. I decided to try and turn it in the lathe to clean the ends up nice and square. It took a couple hours to get it chucked up in the lathe and indicated, but I got one end turned before going home for the evening. I have a new respect for the lathe, I thought I was going to kill it for sure but somehow it got the job done! That is about 7lbs chucked up in that poor little lathe!  I made it back over to scootopia this morning and squared upp the other end of the fixture in about an hour. I also cut the notch in one end and made a plate to to hold the crank in the fixture. I had to leave and go do some work but I got back over to scootopia this evening and set the fixture up in the press and tried it out.  It took all of two minutes to press the pin out of the crank. The crank in the picture is the Phongeer crank that the flywheel stub broke off of while I was riding. It just happens to have a 90mm long rod in it that I may be able to use to replace the 85mm rod in the TP crank. Feeling confident I made some measurements of the TP crank as 190mech told me to, then I loaded the TP crank up in the fixture to press it apart. The TP crank required quite a bit more pressure to get it apart than the phongeer crank did. Now that the rods were out I could make some measurements.   I am not sure what happened to my other pictures ATM, but the TP rod is 11.78mm wide and the Phongeer rod is 13.48mm wide, so some width would have to be ground off of the phongeer rod for it to fit the TP crank. The plan was to use the big grinder I have to take a bit off of each side of the phongeer rod, but I ran into another problem. The Phongeer rod will not fit on the TP bearing and pin. The ID of the big end of the phongeer rod is 24.12mm and the ID of the big end of the TP rod is 24.18mm Its enough difference that the phongeer rod will not slide on the TP bearing. I went ahead and pushed to phongeer pin out of the crank cheek. The phongeer rod will fit if I use the TP bearing with the phongeer pin, however the phongeer pin is only 32.82mm long and the TP pin is about 37mm long. So thats not gonna work. 190mech has found a pro-x rod that may fit. I guess the next step is to give that one a try, otherwise the other option is to buy the 2Fast 44/90 crank for $$$ and that is not in the budget, especially since I am not 100% sure this will all work out! |
|
|
|
Post by AtariGuy on Aug 23, 2020 10:54:39 GMT -5
Fyi - i'm verrrrry intently watching this thread. You're inspiring me to do stuff to my scooty i've been wanting to do for quite some time now! Keep up all the amazing work!
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Aug 24, 2020 19:38:17 GMT -5
I managed to get a little scooter work done after a crazy day on the job. I ended up pressing some used cranks apart in search of an 18mm pin that would work with the Phongeer rod and the TP bearing and washers. 2 of the pins fit, a solid one from the stock Kymco crank and a hollow one from the Phongeer crank. The issue with both of them is they are about 4mm shorter than the TP minarelli pin. I am thinking about using the hollow Phongeer pin and rod with the TP bearing and crank. The pin will be about 2mm short of the pin hole on the outside of the crank web. Its either that or find a shop that can hone the big end of the Phongeer rod out by .0025  Here is a picture of the grinder I am planning to use to thin the Phongeer rod a bit.  |
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Aug 25, 2020 3:51:31 GMT -5
If the replacement crank pin is a smaller OD than the TP pin,the crank wheels will slip on that pin causing crank failure,,shorter length will also reduce the press in grip..The PG rod has been heavily trimmed down for the stroker setup to clear the cases which makes it weaker ..I think the safest bet would be source a quality rod and have it honed to the proper(strange) TP internal diameter...
|
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on Aug 25, 2020 4:35:48 GMT -5
man, that big-end is skinny!  |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Aug 25, 2020 5:31:31 GMT -5
OK, good reasons from two guys recommending a better solution.
I ordered the ProX 03.1102 rod kit. So far I have not been able to find anyone locally that can hone the rod out a bit.
|
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Aug 25, 2020 5:43:42 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Aug 25, 2020 5:54:29 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Aug 25, 2020 17:08:27 GMT -5
HMMM,thats the standard size for Yamaha cranks,,TP must use a bigger needle bearing to need that size of rod big end id..  |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Aug 26, 2020 20:17:02 GMT -5
The rod I ordered should be here Saturday. I may have found a place that can hone the rod out for me. I talked to a guy on the phone at a business listed as an automotive shop, however all I have ever seen there are motorcycles. Anyway he said he thought he could do it and for me and to bring it by when I get it. The brake parts arrived today I haven't had a chance to see if they fit the Kymco ZX forks.  |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Aug 27, 2020 8:29:29 GMT -5
The caliper adapter mounts are 92mm center to center. The Kymco mount points are 68mm center to center. Does anyone know where I can get an adapter that will adapt this Adelin caliper to my Kymco forks? The new rotor fits and is 220mm.  |
|
