|
|
Post by oldgeek on Aug 27, 2020 19:24:28 GMT -5
No luck so far finding a caliper mount adaptor for this Kymco front end. I have never really done anything with brakes, so Ill just send it all back if I cant find something that fits.
Spent some time mid morning on the mounting the front tire. As usual cursing, sweat, tears and blood were required to get the tire on the Kymco rim. I did not even scratch the rim up so I guess I did that part good, however spent over an hour and a half and I still haven't got the bead to seat all the way around. I gotta find time when I can put it in the sun for a while, then seat it. I feel certain it will slip right on when it is warmed up good.
|
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Aug 27, 2020 20:14:26 GMT -5
No luck so far finding a caliper mount adaptor for this Kymco front end. I have never really done anything with brakes, so Ill just send it all back if I cant find something that fits. Spent some time mid morning on the mounting the front tire. As usual cursing, sweat, tears and blood were required to get the tire on the Kymco rim. I did not even scratch the rim up so I guess I did that part good, however spent over an hour and a half and I still haven't got the bead to seat all the way around. I gotta find time when I can put it in the sun for a while, then seat it. I feel certain it will slip right on when it is warmed up good. I just did a tire change on my roughhouse wheels. I found a YouTube video that had the ultra quadruple top secret tech that made tires easy. The trick is to put the wheel on the ground and kneel on the edge of the tire. Use two tire spoons (in my case flathead screwdrivers) and from the center where your knee is work the tire over the wheel equally on both sides. Each time you get the tire over the wheel you move your knees up over the tire until the tire just pops right on. This for me left the tire totally lopsided on the rim. One side was essentially seated but the other side was way into the bead-drop. The ticket for me was dropping the wheel over over and over again all the way around the tire. Hit it with some air and repeat. In maybe 10 minutes the tire was on and seated! As for the Kymco caliper adapter im not totally sure. From what I have seen is that a lot of the Taiwanese & Chinese brake stuff is only available in Jog and Dio fork layouts. Maybe the Kymco forks are similar to the Dio layout? Not totally sure though, i don't have a Dio caliper adapter to measure. |
|
df41590
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 285
|
Post by df41590 on Aug 27, 2020 21:22:18 GMT -5
The caliper adapter mounts are 92mm center to center. The Kymco mount points are 68mm center to center. Does anyone know where I can get an adapter that will adapt this Adelin caliper to my Kymco forks? The new rotor fits and is 220mm.  Would drilling and tapping a new hole on the adapter work? |
|
|
|
Post by jbjhillbilly on Aug 28, 2020 11:45:47 GMT -5
No luck so far finding a caliper mount adaptor for this Kymco front end. I have never really done anything with brakes, so Ill just send it all back if I cant find something that fits. I feel like Carter over at Scooterswapshop would know which bracket would fit. The man carries an impressive amount of arcane knowledge around in his head. |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Aug 29, 2020 17:16:35 GMT -5
The ProX rod arrived today. I was hoping it would fit right out of the box but it was right on spec so it is also just a tad to small to fit with the TP bearing and pin. I am hoping the guy I talked to last week can hone it out properly for me.  I decided to do a test run to thin out a rod on my big grinder, because I will have to do the same to the ProX rod at some point. I chose the Phongeer rod to experiment with, it started off at 13.48mm wide and needed to be 11.78 like the TP rod is. So since a total of 1.7mm needs to come off, I divided that by 2 and came up with .85mm to be removed from each side. So my target thickness after grinding one side should be 12.63mm, I just started holding the rod to the grinder trying to apply equal pressure to each end, pausing to cool it in some water and to measure it. I went slow and it came out pretty good. It is not easy to get it to remove material from both ends equally, I suspect the small end grinds slower due to it's thicker areas and the fact that its difficult to apply equal pressure to both ends simultaneously. When I got the first side ground down to 12.63mm, I flipped it over and did the other side of the rod, grinding until I reached 11.78mm thickness. I learned some technique, so it was a worthwhile test run.   |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Aug 31, 2020 20:27:57 GMT -5
Over the last few days I spent a sickening amount of time trying to get the tire bead to seat all the way around on the 110/70-12 front tire. I had some help from my buddy along the way, we tried so many different things it is insane. I know......I must be doing something wrong. I was thinking of doing a video but I did not want anyone to see my tears LOL! Anyway it finally popped into place on one side, and after another 30 min it popped into place on the other side. I figured I should attack the rear tire next to get all of the tire BS out of the way. After flip flopping a bit on whether to use the 130/70-12 or the 120/70-12 I decided to use the 120/70-12 Only problem is I had already mounted that tire on another Kymco wheel, so I had to take it off of one wheel and put it on the freshly coated wheel. I REALLY wish I had just ordered another 120/70-12 or just used the 130/70-12 To make another long tire story short, I got it done. I dont understand why I have such a time with tires, I have tried all the stuff suggested by others, but it is never easy for me to mount a decent speed rated tire on these Kymco alloy wheels. I will say the most help seemed to come from leaving them out in the sun. However the sun was not really cooperating with my schedule.   |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Sept 5, 2020 22:59:07 GMT -5
I think this bracket is gonna work out, still a little trimming and painting to be done but....   I am thinking about shaving the fender brackets from each fork tube to clean them up a bit. |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Sept 6, 2020 19:50:33 GMT -5
I have not yet been able to take the ProX rod to the shop that thinks they can hone out the big end for me. Mostly because we are busy at work and still have a bunch of work coming up this week. Today, as a test, I decided to hone out the Phongeer rod and fit it to the Top Performances crank. Having never assembled a crank before I wanted a practice run before I do the final for the build. I had my buddy pump the jack while I held everything aligned in the press. It all went fairly well, the exception being was I found had to thin the rod itself so it would rotate between the crank cheeks. I took a look at and measured the ProX rod, It will also need to be thinned approx 1.4mm along the length of the rod, along with being thinned at the bearing areas and also honed out on the big end.   I did not bother getting it all perfect since this crank will be coming back apart to put the proper rod on. Putting this crank together also allowed me to check the the setup of the cylinder with a 90mm rod. It all looks really good, I will need to use a 1 mm or so base spacer but that is a good thing because it will help with sealing the cylinder to the cases. I will still need a 3-3.5 mm spacer between the case halves but I dont think it will be a problem. I still need to sort out the crankshaft seals, the iggy and a slew of other things. |
|
|
|
Post by 2stroked on Sept 7, 2020 17:17:07 GMT -5
The Mad Scientist... Dude. Inspiring. Crazy as hell but in a great way.
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Sept 17, 2020 22:14:30 GMT -5
Despite our current heavy workload, I have been working on this build a little almost every evening. I am taking a break from the motor build partly due to frustration, and partly due to me not having time to go to the place I am hoping can hone out the 90mm rod for me. Since I have recovered from getting the tires fitted up, I am moving on to mocking up the radiators and trying to figure out a seat and a gas tank. One thing I consider a must have on this build is a frame brace. Since the frame brace will interact with the radiators and anything else in the general area I decided to make the brace first. I had another stainless hand rail in the corner, just like the one I used to make the frame brace for my naked Kymco , I whipped out the porta band saw and started chopping it up. A few trial fits and some time at the bench grinder got it done.  Now I can better see where the rads will need to be mounted. I also picked up some 9 lbs of aluminium from the scrap yard today, some really nice stuff like the square tubes you see under the scoot. There were 2 dumpsters full of all different shapes and profiles, sadly I only had time to grab a couple pieces.  I thought I had a great idea for a gas tank/seat pan, made out of four pieces of the aluminium square tubing. But then I realized a gas tank just above the exhaust pipe may not be that great of an idea. What do you guys think about that? Another possible location for the gas tank would be just under the floorboard area, using a couple of the square tubes under each side and possibly extending them up along the steering tube. That setup would require fuel pumps of some sort. Business has been off this year, until recently. We are covered up with work ATM. So much in fact that I am considering trying to persuade my brother to allow me to buy a china TIG welder for the business. To be used for the "business", of course! I dont know if I have the patience to learn to TIG aluminium or not. It looks fairly easy on tube videos, but then again everything looks easy on utube.  |
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Sept 18, 2020 4:52:06 GMT -5
Like the frame brace!Looks like it was made for it..Lots of scoots have floor pan tanks,why not pick up a used one somewhere?Rad location might make for a 'hot seat' unless ducting is used..Will need an AC-DC tig to weld aluminum.I got an AHP and like it,also PrimeWeld makes a good one also.They are China inverter welders with a good following..
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Sept 18, 2020 8:47:25 GMT -5
First thing this morning I decided to go back to the scrap yard to get some more of the aluminum before it got processed and bailed up. I got there just in time as they were dumping one of the 2 dumpsters into the machine. 25lbs for $25 this stuff is expensive in the profiles I have here!  |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Sept 18, 2020 11:01:20 GMT -5
I think you could make it work with a tank over the pipe. Maybe a heat shield between the two. I've always liked the simplicity of gravity feed. One less thing to fail. Pretty sure a decent pump, like a Mikuni, wouldn't give you a lot of headaches though. A tank up high in the back may make it a little easier to wheelie. A tank low in the floor lowers the center of gravity slightly and is probably the smarter choice for handling and even launching a powerful scoot, aside from heat proximity concerns. That said, you and I are big dudes so I don't know how much 15lb of fuel and tank placement really makes with our mass primarily high up and to the rear of the scoot. You'd be able to change whatever characteristics you're after way more with seat placement than anything that you could do with the tank.
I definitely don't think this will be the scoot to use an old solid steel tractor seat on given the rads and pipe. My radiators never bother me, but I can feel the heat if the fan is on so you'll likely notice them whenever you're sitting still.
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Sept 19, 2020 22:07:46 GMT -5
I think you could make it work with a tank over the pipe. Maybe a heat shield between the two. I've always liked the simplicity of gravity feed. One less thing to fail. Pretty sure a decent pump, like a Mikuni, wouldn't give you a lot of headaches though. A tank up high in the back may make it a little easier to wheelie. A tank low in the floor lowers the center of gravity slightly and is probably the smarter choice for handling and even launching a powerful scoot, aside from heat proximity concerns. That said, you and I are big dudes so I don't know how much 15lb of fuel and tank placement really makes with our mass primarily high up and to the rear of the scoot. You'd be able to change whatever characteristics you're after way more with seat placement than anything that you could do with the tank. I definitely don't think this will be the scoot to use an old solid steel tractor seat on given the rads and pipe. My radiators never bother me, but I can feel the heat if the fan is on so you'll likely notice them whenever you're sitting still. ^ Pretty much the same as I was thinking.^ I would love to do a seat/tank, However I am concerned that I just have too much weight shifted to the back. This thing is gonna end up wheelie prone due to its small frame, rads mounted back, short wheelbase, and rider position. I have a couple ideas for a floor tank, that may possibly extend up along the steering tube. Whatever I do I have decided that the existing floorboard mount must go. I used the dremel to carefully cut the 4 welds holding it in place, I can put it back on if plans change later.   |
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Sept 20, 2020 19:17:49 GMT -5
|
|
