|
Post by 808ministroke on May 5, 2022 22:50:01 GMT -5
wow man I would really love that, it sounds like your a pro at this kind of stuff would live to see how it is supposed to be done as there are a few helicoil projects in my shed and I personally never have done it before, I wouldn't forgive myself if I messed up this case.
|
|
|
Post by repherence2 on May 6, 2022 14:29:31 GMT -5
wow man I would really love that, it sounds like your a pro at this kind of stuff would live to see how it is supposed to be done as there are a few helicoil projects in my shed and I personally never have done it before, I wouldn't forgive myself if I messed up this case.
i am not a pro but i have experience doing it at work and on my moped. i have inserted coils on chinarelli blocks for the bore studs. they are notorious for engine case threads ripping out while torquing the cylinder nuts. on one chinarelli block, i drilled out all 4 bore stud holes in the case, tapped it for M7 helicoils for the chinarelli studs. on another chinarelli block where 1 stud pulled out of the case, i drilled out all 4 holes and inserted 1/4-20 keenserts (threaded inserts) and have 1/4-20 bolts for that. so basically converted the metric hole to standard. i just did it because i had access to keenserts, 1/4-20 bolts, and the keensert installation tool. have inserted coils on the exhaust flange of an aluminum bore because i hit a transition between the asphalt and the concreted bus pad and it ripped the V8 exhaust completely off the engine. i have inserted coils for the exhaust bolts on chinarelli block and dd50 block as well as CVT bolt holes. too much torque-till-loose. basically, along the way, where ever i fuct up an aluminum threaded hole on the engines, or bought a used engine and found damaged holes, i ended up inserting a helicoil. i got "trained" on how to do it it work and we even got tasked with removing damaged coils and installing new coils. thread repair and removing broken bolts is just stuff we are supposed to know at work and it is only a small part of the craft. most of the craft is nuts, bolts, washers, sealing surface repair, o-rings, back-up rings, mechanical seals, gaskets, pumps, valves, and actuators or machinery.
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on May 6, 2022 18:02:40 GMT -5
the one thing that is think will maybe make this harder than cylinder studs is that the bolt that broke off is so small, m4 I believe, hopefully I won't need threaded inserts for this only need to remove.
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on May 12, 2022 3:07:37 GMT -5
Alright so I'm not sure if the stage 6 will even work it's almost exactly the same diameter but it's a lot thicker and obviously and obviously more durable than the MVT makes me think that that rotor will just run into the stater plate, So II am not even getting spark at all anymore anymore when I reassembled with the old plate that I did a little more repairing to, I Checked all connections and even cut the spark plug wire to make sure it wasn't bad Even with new plug no spark.... I can only think that Maybe all the damage done to the inner part of the state or finally did it in. Only other option in my mind would be if the state stater plate somehow wasn't grounding to the aint grounding to the case because of small parts of JB Weld may be blocking except for the fact that there's still 2 screws going through the plate into the case so regardless it shouldn't have a trouble being grounded, I'm gonna try maybe a few more things don't don't think it's the CDI or the Ignition coil initially as they are both undamaged and brand new basically, At this point I'm really looking into buying a stelletra From maxi scoot I would have already ordered it probably but I'm still unsure if that rotor will fit onto my lawn larger crank I mean If that rotor will allow AA nut for the larger threads on the arm of the crank, Standard is M10 and these are M12. Please if anybody's worked with those ignitions and has any clue let me know....
|
|
|
Post by pete130 on May 17, 2022 19:09:36 GMT -5
Alright so I'm not sure if the stage 6 will even work it's almost exactly the same diameter but it's a lot thicker and obviously and obviously more durable than the MVT makes me think that that rotor will just run into the stater plate, So II am not even getting spark at all anymore anymore when I reassembled with the old plate that I did a little more repairing to, I Checked all connections and even cut the spark plug wire to make sure it wasn't bad Even with new plug no spark.... I can only think that Maybe all the damage done to the inner part of the state or finally did it in. Only other option in my mind would be if the state stater plate somehow wasn't grounding to the aint grounding to the case because of small parts of JB Weld may be blocking except for the fact that there's still 2 screws going through the plate into the case so regardless it shouldn't have a trouble being grounded, I'm gonna try maybe a few more things don't don't think it's the CDI or the Ignition coil initially as they are both undamaged and brand new basically, At this point I'm really looking into buying a stelletra From maxi scoot I would have already ordered it probably but I'm still unsure if that rotor will fit onto my lawn larger crank I mean If that rotor will allow AA nut for the larger threads on the arm of the crank, Standard is M10 and these are M12. Please if anybody's worked with those ignitions and has any clue let me know.... I have a spear backing plate for piaggio as I didn't need with rc-one case I can dig it out and take a pic see if same but I don't know if that's the problem, It can be a head ake trying to sort out, getting no spark at all, could be cdi coil but sounds like you have tested and are ok, and my backing plate is for malossi team digital, but I would expect to fit as its made for standard case sorry when I did mine was all new parts, and worked I was lucky, good luck with it ill send pic asap
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on May 18, 2022 20:51:25 GMT -5
Alright so I'm not sure if the stage 6 will even work it's almost exactly the same diameter but it's a lot thicker and obviously and obviously more durable than the MVT makes me think that that rotor will just run into the stater plate, So II am not even getting spark at all anymore anymore when I reassembled with the old plate that I did a little more repairing to, I Checked all connections and even cut the spark plug wire to make sure it wasn't bad Even with new plug no spark.... I can only think that Maybe all the damage done to the inner part of the state or finally did it in. Only other option in my mind would be if the state stater plate somehow wasn't grounding to the aint grounding to the case because of small parts of JB Weld may be blocking except for the fact that there's still 2 screws going through the plate into the case so regardless it shouldn't have a trouble being grounded, I'm gonna try maybe a few more things don't don't think it's the CDI or the Ignition coil initially as they are both undamaged and brand new basically, At this point I'm really looking into buying a stelletra From maxi scoot I would have already ordered it probably but I'm still unsure if that rotor will fit onto my lawn larger crank I mean If that rotor will allow AA nut for the larger threads on the arm of the crank, Standard is M10 and these are M12. Please if anybody's worked with those ignitions and has any clue let me know.... I have a spear backing plate for piaggio as I didn't need with rc-one case I can dig it out and take a pic see if same but I don't know if that's the problem, It can be a head ake trying to sort out, getting no spark at all, could be cdi coil but sounds like you have tested and are ok, and my backing plate is for malossi team digital, but I would expect to fit as its made for standard case sorry when I did mine was all new parts, and worked I was lucky, good luck with it ill send pic asap Thanks! It seems as though my problem is intermittent, What I mean by that is when I reassembled it But just to a completely random timing meaning I didn't set the timing whatsoever just put the rotor ond as it sat and was able to get a good spark,however once timing was set the spark seemed to come and go as it pleased.... I am wondering if its the rotor contacting the screw on the backplate is causing my problems, as it's countersunk but bot entirely as It was first attempt and didn't have any proper bits to do the job. when I tested for continuity the sator was grounded with the case as it should be, but so was the rotor. Am I crazy or is that the entire problem right there? ? Is the rotor supposed to be grounded to the stator or is it always like this beca7se rotor is connected to crank arm therefore always guna be grounded to the case??? Someone please LET ME KNOW.THANKS.
|
|
|
Post by repherence2 on May 18, 2022 23:27:53 GMT -5
Bruhdder, bottom line though, rotating machinery like that should not be binding, sticking, or "contacting" screws like that. something is not right. did you do a side by side comparison with the MVT plate and the Stage6 plate? did you take measurements/dimensions to make sure they are the "same". bottom line, no one designs rotating machinery to rub on a surface or fastners/screws, especially without lubrication.
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on May 19, 2022 3:47:54 GMT -5
Bruhdder, bottom line though, rotating machinery like that should not be binding, sticking, or "contacting" screws like that. something is not right. did you do a side by side comparison with the MVT plate and the Stage6 plate? did you take measurements/dimensions to make sure they are the "same". bottom line, no one designs rotating machinery to rub on a surface or fastners/screws, especially without lubrication. No I was running it with the original plate I just drilled a hole out for where the other screw would have gone, That was originally solid and was only utilizing 2 of the threads in the case, Still have a small bolt stuck in one of the threads so I figured I would try with with the other 2 just just until I finally got a replacement the replacement the damage to the rotor to the rotor was caused a long time ago I think I'm not being clear all that scraping and stuff was previously done I'm just trying to figure out if thif the stater And the rotor should be on on the same ground, Or on the same circuit I don't know what the proper term is....
|
|
|
Post by repherence2 on May 19, 2022 22:01:24 GMT -5
808ministroke i see what you mean now. my perception was that the scraping on the face and screws had just happened, i did not realize that it was from the original event.
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on May 20, 2022 4:17:47 GMT -5
Your no spark issue could be when the screw head got between the rotor and stator some of the windings inside the epoxy coated stator got shorted or broken..When they coat them like that there is no way of knowing where the problem is!The only way to check it would be to OHM meter test it.You'll need to know the values of a known good one first before checking yours,,The old Spanish dirt bikes had a Motoplat ignition that were epoxy coated too,we threw many in the bin and bought new(EXPENSIVE) ones when they crapped out...
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on May 23, 2022 7:38:37 GMT -5
Your no spark issue could be when the screw head got between the rotor and stator some of the windings inside the epoxy coated stator got shorted or broken..When they coat them like that there is no way of knowing where the problem is!The only way to check it would be to OHM meter test it.You'll need to know the values of a known good one first before checking yours,,The old Spanish dirt bikes had a Motoplat ignition that were epoxy coated too,we threw many in the bin and bought new(EXPENSIVE) ones when they crapped out... Well checks for spark in the nighttime and and with the darkness making it easy to see I was able to notice a spark, Even a pretty decent one at that. Now things are getting tricky as I am running out of things to troubleshoot, My guess is that either there's a bunch of water somehow in the crank case or the pipe, Or the staterside crankseal is is damaged or leaking that badly it seems like it really wants to start sometimes it will Give the 1st hiccup of coming to life, But won't go any further than that....
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on May 24, 2022 0:13:50 GMT -5
Try starting while choking the carb with your hand.
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on May 24, 2022 5:42:55 GMT -5
Questions Good compression? Strong or weak spark? Try gapping plug to .015" if weak Known good spark plug? Plug wet or dry after start attempt?
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on May 26, 2022 1:55:48 GMT -5
Questions Good compression? Strong or weak spark? Try gapping plug to .015" if weak Known good spark plug? Plug wet or dry after start attempt? Good and prudent suggestions 19090 I will give them all a quick check over and Come back with the verdict and yes Lucas I did try choking it with my hand... To be continued.... Matter fact Will continue for as long as nowhere's long as You aint got no in your heart
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on May 30, 2022 21:52:49 GMT -5
so I found my gremlin turned out the Ignition ( other than the jacked up stator plate) is just fine. it was the vforce reeds almost all four out petals had damage, non of the inner pedals were however. two pedals were not sealing from the missing material. I put I'm some stock reeds just to make sure there weren't any other issues hiding still, I just can't believe the reeds went south after a month of riding . also have I done possible damage to my bike by nit removing the tiny carbon fiber fragments before running it??? It didn't even cross my mind , it didn't do anything funny on the one minute test ride so I don't know if the carbon fiber may have bean ejected or burnt , I did complete lly remove the exhaust and clean that inside and out plus gave it a little sanding, anodizing and clear coat so reeds could have went into the pipe that had a few shot glasses of fuel in it when I finaly removed it.
|
|