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Post by geoffh on Oct 27, 2020 16:04:28 GMT -5
OK I have not the time to check,but I think the spark pick up coil is supported by the stator giving it a fixed point to flywheel and your alterations have thrown the timing way off,in the tech sect Brent alters a stator adjust the timing but it,s just a tad,check through the directory.another option is to try and undo your mods by putting the old stuff back on!!.
Geoff
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Oct 27, 2020 19:15:41 GMT -5
Aw sheeit! well it looks like my airbox might be hard/impossible to find. What's my next best option? geoffh in my case, the stator and pickup coil are not coupled, so I'm able to move the pickup independently of the stator. I really believe in this configuration. Just need to get everything else tidied up before I decide whether to toss the mods. Fingers crossed.
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 27, 2020 20:47:17 GMT -5
It wouldn't be hard to adapt a different air box to fit. Most of them mount in a similar way as the keywest, with mounting holes at the bottom.
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Oct 28, 2020 3:13:55 GMT -5
Found one for my scoot for $55. Seems fair. No hoses though. Can those be cheaply improvised?
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Post by 190mech on Oct 28, 2020 4:16:37 GMT -5
If you switched your stator to a different pole count,a matching flywheel will be needed as the magnet orientation is critical for proper spark..
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 28, 2020 8:56:21 GMT -5
Found one for my scoot for $55. Seems fair. No hoses though. Can those be cheaply improvised? At 8:30 Brent modified an air box.
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Oct 28, 2020 15:46:15 GMT -5
Brent <3 fantastic asmr at 9:10 Turns out the one I found was out of stock. Found another including hose. No sure when it will arrive. Gonna have to do some coarse tuning in the meantime. 190mech the magneto is new as well.
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Oct 29, 2020 13:49:03 GMT -5
Alright, everything is fitted properly as far as I can tell, but my piston is getting caught in one spot in its rotation near TDC (spark plug is removed). Same spot every time, and if I give it some moderate force, it'll pop past that spot and keep going until the next time around. Happens going backwards as well. It's a pretty squishy pop so it doesn't feel like anything's knocking or grinding. This has happened once before (I've removed and re-installed the cylinder once since then) and when I took off the transmission cover, it stopped for good.
Any wizards out there wanna make a guess?
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 29, 2020 13:58:21 GMT -5
Are you sure your not at top dead centre and it's fully extended. There will be a slight hesitancy as it starts going down the bore again .
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Oct 29, 2020 14:56:05 GMT -5
Figured it out. Head was overtorqued. You were right about the hesitancy but this was excessive. Gonna re-gasket AGAIN. Stay tuned, brothers/sisters.
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 29, 2020 15:22:01 GMT -5
This saga better than the walking dead!
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Oct 31, 2020 17:39:37 GMT -5
Alright.
Airbox came today. Some still-sticky glue on the packaging, but no big deal, just cleaned it up and put some extra glue on. Intake has a removable rubber tube that I guess allows for modifying of the intake size. Inside and output look solid. Hooked it up no problem.
Cleaned the carb (stock) and set it up. Muffler's on as well (no gasket yet, not sure if this is critical). If I turn the kickstart real slow, I can see that I'm sparking right before TDC (reluctor is set up as close as I can get to 15 degrees without precision tools). Fuel and oil t-valves are open and carb is definitely getting fuel. Not sure how to tell if fuel is leaving the carburetor.
Also worth mentioning, I'm using stock jets because I don't think a jet set can be bought for my carb. Either way, carb and airbox are now stock. Only muffler is aftermarket. No dragging or clunking of the piston and cylinder is very clean. The only electrical components I have set up are in the ignition circuit.
I done good, right? One problem: no start.
Tried some throttle, no good. Haven't tried electric start because not hooked up. Is this something I should try?
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Post by jloi on Oct 31, 2020 18:18:38 GMT -5
does the flywheel have marks on it? timing marks ? yes your muffler absolutely needs a gasket . how about some pix of the flywheel and reluctor, stator
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Oct 31, 2020 21:22:27 GMT -5
Cool so, new problem. Muffler came with two gaskets, one between the engine and the exhaust, and one where the exhaust meets the silencer. As I was tightening that second one, one of the screws came out: Not a good halloween. Can I glue this back in? JB weld maybe? jloi hold tight for those photos
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vacationer
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Post by vacationer on Oct 31, 2020 22:20:07 GMT -5
In other news, I was able to get her started for a sec! Spritzed some starter fluid into the spark plug hole and pulled on the throttle a bit. Got a very inconsistent churn, and I was able to replicate it 2 or 3 times more. Got a huge puff out of the exhaust at one point (I put the silencer back on, just without the one nut).
As for the inconsistency, I'm pretty sure I can explain. I DIY'ed a woodruff key out of JB weld and 3 smaller woodruff keys I bought hoping one would fit. At the time it was my only resort, as I can't find the proper woodruff key anywhere. Now, I'm back to that particular square since the flywheel annihilated my makeshift key just now when she started up.
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