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Post by fuzzybabybunny on Mar 4, 2021 5:05:54 GMT -5
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Post by jbjhillbilly on Mar 4, 2021 19:12:22 GMT -5
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Post by fuzzybabybunny on Mar 4, 2021 22:14:08 GMT -5
Thank you. That seems like quite the modification - I think it's telling me to disconnect everything on my stator that connects to the stator ground... Meaning snip four coil connection points and also the green ground wire. I've actually been running my LEDs with the stock stator, which is grounded, and it has been fine. No flickering or big drop in brightness at low voltages. The only problem is that the LEDs are on the same DC rail as the battery charging circuit, so when I have headlights on the battery loses charge even while running. In the stock configuration, all the lights run off the AC circuit with the DC circuit used only for charging the battery, but now I've got nothing on the AC circuit and everything on the DC one. The AC circuit was just no good at running LED headlights (lots of flicker at low RPMs and I think it even decreased the lifespan of the LEDs). |
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Post by jbjhillbilly on Mar 4, 2021 23:16:00 GMT -5
Electrical are not my forte. But I figured that there would be some info in there for you. There was another full wave thread recently if you search for it.
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 5, 2021 8:51:48 GMT -5
Thank you. That seems like quite the modification - I think it's telling me to disconnect everything on my stator that connects to the stator ground... Meaning snip four coil connection points and also the green ground wire. I've actually been running my LEDs with the stock stator, which is grounded, and it has been fine. No flickering or big drop in brightness at low voltages. The only problem is that the LEDs are on the same DC rail as the battery charging circuit, so when I have headlights on the battery loses charge even while running. In the stock configuration, all the lights run off the AC circuit with the DC circuit used only for charging the battery, but now I've got nothing on the AC circuit and everything on the DC one. The AC circuit was just no good at running LED headlights (lots of flicker at low RPMs and I think it even decreased the lifespan of the LEDs). Put the LED headlights back on the headlight circuit. The LEDs will not be harmed by the low RPM flickering. The regulator is a SHUNT REGULATOR that regulates the voltage on both the battery and headlight circuit at about 14VDC. The headlight circuit is DC just with a strange waveform that confuses digital voltmeters. Try an analog voltmeter. If you are worried about the flickering raise your idle speed a little. |
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Post by snaker on Mar 5, 2021 12:27:28 GMT -5
The link from jbjhillbilly should get you going but you have to figure out what you have to start with.
Your photos show it to be a DC style stator, in that there doesn't appear to be a separate AC CDI power coil.
1. No wires shown for it and
2. No poles appear oddball
It would have the lighting coil only, which is AC, but no ignition power.
Something is strange about the photos, maybe I'm seeing things
Do all the posts have equal windings?
Is there damage to some of the windings? Some look like the insulation resin is missing.
You make a point of saying the ground is attached to posts at 4 points.
I don't understand.
If some points are terminals on plastic, they are probably insulated from the stator plate
Check with ohm meter.
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 5, 2021 15:17:31 GMT -5
The coil picture is showing a 'DC style' stator with no AC power for a CDI unit. It does appear to be in bad shape. The regulator shown is a common 4 terminal shunt type regulator that shorts or shunts the negative AC votage waves to ground and positive voltage waves above 14V are shorted to ground also which produces a strange waveform net DC output on the system. The regulator gets very hot. Placing the LED lights on the battery side may have destroyed the regulator and possibly the stator also. My best suggestion would be to get a new 12 pole stator similar to this but for your Honda: www.amazon.com/TC-Motor-Ignition-Magneto-Chinese-Scooter/dp/B01CGFYO26/with a matching rectifier/regulator similar to this one but connectors may have to be modified: The above are for a GY6 type motor.
Hopefully the links will work and the OP is able to wire it up. I make no guarantee the regulator and stator will match. It will require a matching 12 pole flywheel also for your motor. Some of our vendors here may be able to supply a complete matching system with flywheel, stator, regulator, and wire harness. Don't buy crap off eBay. |
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Post by fuzzybabybunny on Mar 5, 2021 23:09:50 GMT -5
The coil picture is showing a 'DC style' stator with no AC power for a CDI unit. It does appear to be in bad shape. The regulator shown is a common 4 terminal shunt type regulator that shorts or shunts the negative AC votage waves to ground and positive voltage waves above 14V are shorted to ground also which produces a strange waveform net DC output on the system. The regulator gets very hot. Placing the LED lights on the battery side may have destroyed the regulator and possibly the stator also. My best suggestion would be to get a new 12 pole stator similar to this but for your Honda: www.amazon.com/TC-Motor-Ignition-Magneto-Chinese-Scooter/dp/B01CGFYO26/with a matching rectifier/regulator similar to this one but connectors may have to be modified: The above are for a GY6 type motor.
Hopefully the links will work and the OP is able to wire it up. I make no guarantee the regulator and stator will match. It will require a matching 12 pole flywheel also for your motor. Some of our vendors here may be able to supply a complete matching system with flywheel, stator, regulator, and wire harness. Don't buy crap off eBay. Thanks. I'm not sure why it's called a "DC style" stator? There is no DC coming from it. When I measure the stator while running: Yellow and Green gives 30-60 VAC depending on RPM White and Green gives 30-60 VAC depending on RPM
Yellow, White, and Green are the only three wires coming out of the stator.
The blue wire is the pickup coil.
The white and green wires from the stator are paired together into a connector.
The blue CDI wire and yellow wire are paired off as well, I'm assuming to run the CDI and ignition coil.
But the bike will kick start and run with the stator completely disconnected except for the one blue CDI wire, so it seems capable of running the ignition coil from the battery power alone.
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Post by fuzzybabybunny on Mar 5, 2021 23:11:36 GMT -5
The link from jbjhillbilly should get you going but you have to figure out what you have to start with. Your photos show it to be a DC style stator, in that there doesn't appear to be a separate AC CDI power coil. 1. No wires shown for it and 2. No poles appear oddball It would have the lighting coil only, which is AC, but no ignition power. Something is strange about the photos, maybe I'm seeing things Do all the posts have equal windings? Is there damage to some of the windings? Some look like the insulation resin is missing. You make a point of saying the ground is attached to posts at 4 points. I don't understand. If some points are terminals on plastic, they are probably insulated from the stator plate Check with ohm meter. I don't understand the grounding in 4 points either, and I confirmed with an ohm meter. The copper coils connect to the stator ground in four spots. There is no OL anywhere. |
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Post by fuzzybabybunny on Mar 5, 2021 23:30:07 GMT -5
I did some measurements last night with the thing put back together:  |
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 6, 2021 3:37:03 GMT -5
Scoots run with a DC CDI powered from the battery or an AC CDI powered from a large AC coil on the stator. Your stator is the DC type that does not have the AC power coil on the stator. The 4 terminal regulator is NOT a rectifier, it is a SHUNT regulator that shorts parts of the AC waveform the stator would be making to ground. With the regulator connected the voltage is limited to about 14VDC on the yellow or yellow-white wires from the stator. Wire colors are not consistent. You absolutely can NOT measure the voltage on the stator to regulator wires with a digital voltmeter, the strange waveform present will confuse a digital voltmeter. To measure the voltage you need an analog voltmeter or even an oscilloscope. An analog meter like this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YUN4C/Quit playing with a digital meter, they are worthless on this old technology. To use a digital or analog meter takes an understanding of electricity and electronics. Just having a meter does not make one an instant electrical engineer. Reading idiotic posts on the internet does not make one an electrical engineer either. The green wire from the stator and regulator is ground. The yellow-whatever color wires are power. The red wire from the regulator is to the battery. The battery should show about 14VDC when fully charged and the scoot is running at speed. A capacitor to ground around 1000uF 35V will smooth out some of the ripples in the power leads to the headlights. |
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