Eton beamer PN2 performance build.
Oct 8, 2024 16:29:36 GMT -5
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190mech and aeroxbud like this
Post by proy on Oct 8, 2024 16:29:36 GMT -5
So I have been dailying my scoot to work since reinstalling the oem crank and a naraku 70cc cylinder. The stripped cvt side of the crank finally let go and whipped out the belt and front half of the variator. Was still running strong though with no vibration with the variator un installed.
So impressions of the naraku 70cc kit. I got it up to 42 on flats 44 downhill. Decent low end power over stock. As expected it revs lower then the polini sport 70cc. It will get into the upper revs and accelerate downhill but on flat ground slightly lower revs and top speed. The transfer ports were a little rough and could have had some noticable clean up done to make everything symmetrical and the propper shape. Will take photos or a port map when I pull off the cylinder.
All and all if you double check the cylinder for slag and rough or burred ports its a strong cylinder that I would recomend to anyone not wanting to replace a crank for a higher end cylinder.
Can not stress enough inspect everything before just slapping it on. Loose metal inside of the cylinder ports can come loose at any time. At best it will ruin the top end, worst caseinario it whipes out the bottom end too.
Also wanted to add a note to anyone thinking that the polini 70cc sport kit isn't any good or unreliable, thats not true at all. I abbused that cylinder every time I drove it. Wot all the time and at least 11k rpm downhill. Even with that said it lasted over 2 years getting the snott kicked out of it. Same goes for the naraku hpc crank. I abused the hell out of it and still lasted over 2 years. If you keep the revs bellow 10k rpm then it will mostlikely live a long happy life.
Also to anyone thinking of running a 10mm wristpin crank over 10k rpm that you beat on it downhill. Dont buy a 10mm crank and just pinch your pennies and get a 12mm crank and cylinder. I knew from reading several build threads on here that the smaller wrist pin bearing was likely to fail and kill the top and bottom end too. Ends up being more work and money in the long run.
So onto the race parts order. Although I really wanted to go with the polini 12mm wrist pin crank I had linked prior it is still on back order. So I changed my order to this malossi crank.
www.scootertuning.ca/en/crankshafts-racing/2015-crankshaft-malossi-mhr-rhq-12mm-4260088513632.html?search_query=538009&results=1
Huge shout out to the customer support at scootertuning.ca super easy to change the order. Also I think it was a 68 dollar differance they had me out the door and shipped the same day for only an extra 25 dollars twords the new crank.
So next on the list to order is a new variator and pipe. Most likely not at the same time but I might just so I don't have to tune the cvt twice.
My two main choices are mainly the yasuni c16, but im also toying with the idea of the c21? To be honest I know I should stick with the c16 but I dont wanna buy a 3rd pipe later on if I go to a higher output cylinder. What do you guys think, is the c20 a little to much to ask for on the malossi cylinder or crank?
Another question I had for you guys was if anyone had experience with this malossi crank, and what it will safely rev to for extended periods? Wanna get an idea of my targeted rpm and try to avoid trashing a second crank.
Will write another update once I get my hands on the parts tomorrow or once I get the engine rebuilt by the end of the week.
So impressions of the naraku 70cc kit. I got it up to 42 on flats 44 downhill. Decent low end power over stock. As expected it revs lower then the polini sport 70cc. It will get into the upper revs and accelerate downhill but on flat ground slightly lower revs and top speed. The transfer ports were a little rough and could have had some noticable clean up done to make everything symmetrical and the propper shape. Will take photos or a port map when I pull off the cylinder.
All and all if you double check the cylinder for slag and rough or burred ports its a strong cylinder that I would recomend to anyone not wanting to replace a crank for a higher end cylinder.
Can not stress enough inspect everything before just slapping it on. Loose metal inside of the cylinder ports can come loose at any time. At best it will ruin the top end, worst caseinario it whipes out the bottom end too.
Also wanted to add a note to anyone thinking that the polini 70cc sport kit isn't any good or unreliable, thats not true at all. I abbused that cylinder every time I drove it. Wot all the time and at least 11k rpm downhill. Even with that said it lasted over 2 years getting the snott kicked out of it. Same goes for the naraku hpc crank. I abused the hell out of it and still lasted over 2 years. If you keep the revs bellow 10k rpm then it will mostlikely live a long happy life.
Also to anyone thinking of running a 10mm wristpin crank over 10k rpm that you beat on it downhill. Dont buy a 10mm crank and just pinch your pennies and get a 12mm crank and cylinder. I knew from reading several build threads on here that the smaller wrist pin bearing was likely to fail and kill the top and bottom end too. Ends up being more work and money in the long run.
So onto the race parts order. Although I really wanted to go with the polini 12mm wrist pin crank I had linked prior it is still on back order. So I changed my order to this malossi crank.
www.scootertuning.ca/en/crankshafts-racing/2015-crankshaft-malossi-mhr-rhq-12mm-4260088513632.html?search_query=538009&results=1
Huge shout out to the customer support at scootertuning.ca super easy to change the order. Also I think it was a 68 dollar differance they had me out the door and shipped the same day for only an extra 25 dollars twords the new crank.
So next on the list to order is a new variator and pipe. Most likely not at the same time but I might just so I don't have to tune the cvt twice.
My two main choices are mainly the yasuni c16, but im also toying with the idea of the c21? To be honest I know I should stick with the c16 but I dont wanna buy a 3rd pipe later on if I go to a higher output cylinder. What do you guys think, is the c20 a little to much to ask for on the malossi cylinder or crank?
Another question I had for you guys was if anyone had experience with this malossi crank, and what it will safely rev to for extended periods? Wanna get an idea of my targeted rpm and try to avoid trashing a second crank.
Will write another update once I get my hands on the parts tomorrow or once I get the engine rebuilt by the end of the week.