|
Post by hippo008 on Sept 19, 2021 19:51:10 GMT -5
Awesome! Really looking foward to it. The addition of drawings could make this a much easier build for anyone else trying this same swap. Unfortunately there is a big barrier to entry with the headtube fabrication. Ive been trying to brainstorm ways to make this accessible to somebody who cannot weld but I have come up short. I thought about using Alumaweld to try and braze that joint together but that joint wont hold up to the heat. I tossed around some muffler patch paste to try and glue it together but that probably wouldnt hold up either. Im all ears if anyone has any ideas.
I also want to do a Brent style decibel measurment with the Arrow, C16 and NCY Dio pipe with and without modified airbox. I hope it will help people decide what setup could be right for them.
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Sept 20, 2021 9:49:26 GMT -5
I'll get the flange adapter drawn up tonight..Be glad to make some for folks,problem is finding the 30mm OD tube,,I machined yours out of thick wall 4130 and that takes time..If some tube could be sourced in USA the job would be much quicker!!
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Sept 20, 2021 14:17:10 GMT -5
I'll get the flange adapter drawn up tonight..Be glad to make some for folks,problem is finding the 30mm OD tube,,I machined yours out of thick wall 4130 and that takes time..If some tube could be sourced in USA the job would be much quicker!! I found a few online suppliers for metric tubing. Whats the preffered wall thickness and material? I found some extruded 30mm tube with a 1mm wall thickess online. Its about $120 for 5' of the stuff.
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Sept 20, 2021 18:40:07 GMT -5
The Yasuni flange adapter tube is 1.5mm wall,thats waay overpriced for a piece of steel tubing.. Here is the flange drawing; Another,Happiness is sleeping next to a new C16!!
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Sept 20, 2021 18:51:47 GMT -5
Even your cat likes a bit of Yasuni goodness. 👍
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Sept 21, 2021 11:57:55 GMT -5
FWIW: ran an endoscope inside the C16 to see if there was the perforated baffle that others have said were welded into the baffle cone..NOPE!Just a nice smooth hollow pipe!!
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Sept 21, 2021 18:40:56 GMT -5
I think it's only the street pipes have it. The ones that carry CE certification. The C16-Carrera is sold as a race pipe. That's why it does not have any restrictions. This is the baffle inside.
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Sept 21, 2021 20:51:26 GMT -5
Aeroxbud i believe youre right. The "city" line of Yasuni pipes come with a homoligation from the Spanish government. When I purchased my Yasuni R it also had a homologation and restrictions.
|
|
|
Post by repherence2 on Sept 23, 2021 23:30:53 GMT -5
Awesome! Really looking foward to it. The addition of drawings could make this a much easier build for anyone else trying this same swap. Unfortunately there is a big barrier to entry with the headtube fabrication. Ive been trying to brainstorm ways to make this accessible to somebody who cannot weld but I have come up short. I thought about using Alumaweld to try and braze that joint together but that joint wont hold up to the heat. I tossed around some muffler patch paste to try and glue it together but that probably wouldnt hold up either. Im all ears if anyone has any ideas. I also want to do a Brent style decibel measurment with the Arrow, C16 and NCY Dio pipe with and without modified airbox. I hope it will help people decide what setup could be right for them. brudder, the method i used to fit up my c16 does not involve welding, machining, or fabrication. i went with the least path of resistance in my approach. it can be done with a drill and a dremel. or even a drill and a round "rat tail" file. or even with a dremel alone if you have the right tooling/bits/accessories. i had to slot the exhaust flange holes. drill 1 new hole on the bracket. modify an existing slot on the bracket. bolts, washers, spacers from hardware store. just so it is stated, i installed helicoils in the block for the bracket bolts so that i can clamp the bracket and spacers. with the bracket spaced out that far, i wanted to have reasonable assurance that the bracket was mounted solid. the washer goes between the engine and the spacer to distribute the load and prevent the spacers from digging into the mounting points. when the bracket bolts are torqued.
many ways to skin the cat. i just did not want to "spoon feed" information (to the hawaii lurkers) because i am a firm believer that people need to do research to learn. too many stories from the "DIO" scene here on Oahu because most people take it to a shop or "dis guy went tune 'um for me". maybe it is what i learned from the Hawaiians, "when people have a problem getting a task done, you do not finish it for them even though you can. you take them to 95% and then you have them finish the 5%. they need to think (problem solve) and in the end they need to experience that sense of accomplishment". it is what i had to do in the submarine world for 11 years now. jobs that would take me 2 hours to do, i have to watch apprentices take 1 to 2 shifts to complete. i have told all my apprentices, "if you run into a problem, do not be afraid to stop and ask for help. i will be sitting right here. as long as we can recover, we are good. do not go beyond the point where we cannot recover." but in the end the apprentices finish the job. it instills them with confidence, it gives them "experience", and it is a better learning opportunity.
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Sept 24, 2021 17:23:15 GMT -5
Fair enough philosophy. Im a big fan of documentation for any process, escpecially specific applications like this. To the person whos just getting into scooters they may not want to try a complex modification. I find myself referencing threads all over the place just to help with the process or inspiration. When I built the Yasuni bracket for my Roughhouse I started by looking at other custom brackets to help me design my own. I figure compiling all this information in one place will help the next guy trying to tackle this project.
Maybe I can work with 190mech and produce some kits for sale? He builds the header and I build the brackets? Who knows. Any way this stuff can get out there for others is the goal.
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Sept 25, 2021 16:51:11 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Sept 25, 2021 17:15:11 GMT -5
When you look at all those pipes. The Yasuni build quality is in a different league.
|
|
|
Post by hippo008 on Sept 25, 2021 20:06:10 GMT -5
When you look at all those pipes. The Yasuni build quality is in a different league. Theres no doubt about that. The pipes im most curious about are the ones coming out of Thailand and Taiwan. Ive seen no comparisons of YFIS, JISO and custom pipes. Who knows the quality of em, but they are very popular in my area
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Sept 26, 2021 5:30:39 GMT -5
He did say in the video they perform well. Just wasn't happy with the buIld quality.
|
|
|
Post by 808ministroke on Sept 28, 2021 8:03:30 GMT -5
Yeah how much you gotta think that the inner baffle restrict on performance??? I would imagine that it effectively makes the expansion chamber smaller Since those holes in the baffle don't look very big so I couldn't see that much exhaust gas passing through them
|
|