Yellow Fever

[Deleted]

I wish i had the tach on it at the time. i dunno what it was but i had the 4g sliders in it and it was screaming like hell at about 45 and the ignition cut out. im gonna guess and say 7500-8000

Seems 5.5g with a good tension contra is perfect for my weight on a 50mm with stock head and cam. i am about 180 lbs.

Midnight can handle the 4g sliders because the contra is getting weak so it doesnt take much weight to balance it out.

[Deleted]

A note about LED signal lighting. On these bikes the turn indicator lamp on the dash will not work with leds in the front because the turn indicator lamp is wired to the front signals.
The lamp only has 2 hot wires and no ground. it works because while one side is energized the little bulb finds enough ground through the turn signal on the other side to ground itself. with leds in it this method of signal lamp operation will not work.
My 67 y/o father has been in the field of electronics/electrical all his adult life and he is working on an alternative method where we can wire it up so the turn indicator lamp will work with leds.

[lshigham]

I wonder if it was an intentional limiter or it just something in the ignition system unable to cope?

[Deleted]

im not sure there is any way to determine that.

[Deleted]

Planned on putting a box on the back but that just ruins the look we are going for with this bike so I put then pillion handle/spoiler back on it.

After a quick grocery run:



IMO using a longer case motor with larger and nicely designed wheel looks much better than an engine mount 'stretch fatty kit' on a small frame 'sunny' style scooter. This is sort of a preview on the look I am going for with the 'Stroker 95' build but it will be a little longer still (788 case with 13" 150 design wheel and rear disc brake).

[teddy554]

Were are you buying your 5 spoke rims from

[Deleted]

Feb 25, 2012 11:23:41 GMT -5 teddy554 said:

Were are you buying your 5 spoke rims from

The rear wheel is kind of rare. It is from a QINGQI QM50QT-2. I have never seen one like it. It is a pretty close match for the aluminum 5 spoke wheels that you see on many of these 'sunny' scooters. I got lucky on this wheel in that when I went and looked at this engine which I found on craigslist this is what I found.

[Deleted]

got the '3rd' brake light working...just replaced the led strip and used a red sharpie on the...for some reason ...clear lens. it must have had red leds in it to begin with lol i dont remember lol [/IMG] The bike is now full LED except for that little running light on the nose..and the headlight.

[Deleted]

this thing turned out really hard to start. It has one standard base gasket whereas Midnight has 2 thick Hoca ones. Midnight has 190 psi compression...one 90cca battery and massive 4 gauge automotive starter cables. I dont know what Yellow Fevers compression is because I havent been able to get it to spin over fast enough to check it.

I put a booster battery under the seat using the place molded into the seat bucket that you can punch out to pass the wires through...its a 190cca plus a 90cca in the stock location. The one under the seat has 2 poles for both hot and ground. I doubled the wires to the relay and from the relay to the starter. it now turns over and cranks. Funny thing is if you put the kill switch to kill...it turns over much faster. Seems like the ignition is drawing massive power. I have tried 3 CDIs and coils (all stock). It cant be compression because like i said if you turn the kill switch to kill...its spins over fine with just one battery.

Attachments:

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also its a new starter....but i question its manufacture. Its the cheapest ebay gy6 50cc starter there was.
Midnight has an orange coil..iridium plug and pure 93 octane which helps cranking a great deal but Yellow doesnt (anymore) I am going to have to put that stuff back on it. The fact that killing the ignition makes it spin fine with just one battery....but needs all this power when the kill switch is set to run has me mystified.

[Deleted]

it wouldnt start again this morning. FMR. My last idea was to swap this new ebay starter with the starter off one of my new 72cc bikes. Everything now starts as it should....for now.
:/

[90GTVert]

That's a lot of juice. Is this one AC or DC ignition? I don't see how the ignition would be drawing so much either way really. I'd think it's more likely the timing is too far advanced for the compression you have and making it hard to start. When some people build high comp race motors they use a start retard that backs out something like 10 to 25 degrees of timing while cranking to make starting easier.

[Deleted]

Its DC.
I think it was a starter issue the whole while.
Starter went bad that was on this motor..which i dont know its full history. Then the starter of project stroker 95 was ok at first then developed a dead spot. Then when we repaired it...it decided to turn backwards. We then bought a $20 ebay starter and it was apparently crap...on this 230psi compression motor anyway. I then took the starter off a new 72cc bike here and the problem appears to be solved. It will crank with the 90cca battery alone now but it is a little slow...IMO its becasue this motor has 230 psi compression. With the 190cca booster battery hooked up giving the motor a total of 280cca it cranks at the lightest touch of the button..and i still have not put the iridium plug and orange coil back on it....did fill it up with pure 93 octane though.

Problem appears to be solved. I look forward to the day when better quality high torque starters are available for the QMB motors.

For anyone who is interested....this booster battery was easy to do. These 'Sunny' scooters have a square place molded into the seat bucket that can be easily popped out. It happens to be right beside the starter relay. The battery I used is a 190cca YTX7ABS Yamaha Vino 125 MOTOBATT AGM battery from an ebay seller MOTOBATTERIES.. total was $61.95. It has 2 posts for hot and 2 for ground. For ground I went from one of the starter bolts to the battery then from the battery to one of the valve cover bolts. For hot I went straight from both the hot posts directly to the hot side of the starter relay....which is also connected to the battery thats in the stock location...which has the red lead from the rectifier/regulator on it so both batteries will charge. In other words....you can retain the battery thats in the stock location and hooked up in the stock way...this just gives an extra (im my case 190cca) boost. I used some automotive adheasive 'goop' to keep the battery from sliding around. As I said before this 82cc bike was built using one standard base gasket so it has 230+psi compression. I had to use the highest quality starter I could lay my hands on which came from a new factory 72cc bike. It has a threaded post on it instead of the square terminal with a hole in it that you normally see. Anyway it took that starter and this booster battery to make this bike crank what I feel will be reliably. The next one I build will have a standard base gasket plus a thick Hoca base gasket from Parts For Scooters to lower compression down to around 190 for easier starts.





My Boadiao QT-3 Sunny style bike has 2 thick hoca base gaskets (needed for valve to piston clearance because i used a piston that doesnt exactly match the head) and it has 190 psi compression. This seems to be the magic number. That seems to be low enough so it will still crank with at least a 90cca battery (stock factory batteries are 70cca) but still high enough for good performance. Also I recommend doubling your cables like i did, this helps. In other words...get some 10ga wire and some ring terminals from autozone. Go from the battery to the starter relay just as your stock setup is....then from the starter relay to the starter...just as your stock setup is. You now have 2 wires the whole way..which in effect cuts the resistance of the current to the starter in half. My Boadiao cranks fine set up exactly like this. An irriduim plug with orange coil and pure 93 octane is nearly a must as well but if you do all this you should have a strong running 82cc that will crank easily and reliably.


Modified 4/30/12
More about better 139qmb starters:
49ccscoot.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=4help&action=display&thread=3905

[90GTVert]

Starters for these definitely aren't all created equal. I know for the minarellis I found some wouldn't turn over my 90s. I had two types that were easy to tell apart for those. Chrome and then the brass colored finish. Both chrome ones I had sucked. Tried cleaning them and more power and they just weren't up to the task. I'm sure there are junk plain ones now too, but I won't buy the generic chrome starters anymore. Shame it's not always so easy to tell which is gonna be good and which isn't for all engines.

[Deleted]

that automotive 'Goop' stuff didnt hold but i didnt like that anyway. I have a big piece of velcro to put across the back of the battery and the seat tub to hold it....just to keep it from sliding around and pulling on the wires.