Yellow Fever

[Deleted]

Mar 23, 2012 12:55:14 GMT -5 90GTVert said:

Starters for these definitely aren't all created equal. I know for the minarellis I found some wouldn't turn over my 90s. I had two types that were easy to tell apart for those. Chrome and then the brass colored finish. Both chrome ones I had sucked. Tried cleaning them and more power and they just weren't up to the task. I'm sure there are junk plain ones now too, but I won't buy the generic chrome starters anymore. Shame it's not always so easy to tell which is gonna be good and which isn't for all engines.

Amen brother. I pray the day comes when someone like Naraku or somebody starts making some real starters for our beloved little wonderscoots!

[Deleted]

Rode almost an entire tank of gas this afternoon into the evening. I can tell gearing in this 12" is the same as Midnight (10" wheel). Midnight has got it off the line but on the top end Yellow Fever would take the flag by a nose...I dont know what the true speed is but in 45mph zones I was overtaking by a little..and everyone speeds here...and getting crazy looks while I was at it so...haha Mission Accomplished!

[90GTVert]

Very nice. :riding:

[Deleted]

now i need to figure out how to make the one incandescent turn indicator work with LED turn signal lamps.

The bulb has the hot wires from both the front ones going to it and no dedicted ground...it gets its ground through the unused side when whichever side is on...i believe this is called a floating ground. anyway with the bulb on the dash in and the switch turned on for either side....it makes both sides come on. pull the bulb out and naturally only one side flashes...as normal.

so i am thinking a relay of some type. seems like this would work but it only has one input....(just imagine a bulb where the dis. block is and that 'license plate light' wire being one side of the turn signal hots)

www.ebay.com/itm/12-VOLT-4-PIN-SPDT-AUTOMOTIVE-RELAY-30A-40A-NO-12V-40-AMP-/360432621007?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53eb7555cf&vxp=mtr#ht_2931wt_1058


so 2 of these maybe? with both the outputs spliced into one wire?

[Deleted]

maybe just rewire the bulb so that it has a dedicated ground....and on the hot side put both sides together on that one hot to the bulb and use diodes in the hot wires so that when one is hot it wont go down to the other.....that sounds simpler.

[Deleted]

I hit the rev limiter on an orange cdi that was supposedly 'no rev limit' before when i had wayy too light (4g) weights in this bike...

Turns out these TZR50 blue CDIs cut out at a certain rpm too. Higher than the orange boxes i believe but still cut out. Good part is you have to be in the red zone of near destruction before it does...on a 4t say about 8k..which is the point of a rev limit anyway but for them to advertise any of these units as 'no rev limit' is far from what i am finding.

Someone asked a question with regard to the cutting out i mentioned before on that orange box.... wondering if it was something intentional that was built in (rev limiter) or just revved so high the system could not handle things. Mechanical points and condenser systems of old would tend to 'float' when rpms were way high and you would get a hesitation/cutting out feeling when around 9k or so from what i can remember...but what happens when an electronic igniton cuts fire.....there is no doubt...try cycling your kill switch running WOT momentarily ...its the same. Clearly an intentionally designed cut-out.
Sure they work fine and few of us will ever hit it. Hell I had to be going down a steep hill tucked and WOT but it did happen...and for them to advertise as 'no rev limit' when it does cut out.... thats the issue i have. If it cuts out at 8500 or 9000 just tell me you know?

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[90GTVert]

I've heard with quite a few small engine CDIs over the years that no rev units sometimes cut off at 10,000RPM. The worst thing with these blue and orange boxes is that they seem vary. You don't really know what's in there. I know for the 2Ts 190mech and I tested the timing curves of 2 boxes that were advertised the same and got different results. One stayed flat, the other had a curve. Both had the same sticker and case, prob the same one on all the 4T CDIs too. Luckily the 2T ones don't seem to have a rev limiter that I've found, even my stock CDIs I've taken out to around 12,000RPM. My stock GY6 50 CDI I have seen over 9,000RPM on a temp tach and I know I've revved it higher on top speed runs. For most people a 10,000RPM limit on a GY6 would never be noticed. You can rig up a timing light for a test run if you have one that shows RPM. That's what I used to do before I put a tach on every scoot I own.

[Deleted]

Yeah this makes me not trust any of the timing advance claims now too. I guess the only way to know is get that adjustable one.

[Deleted]

Apr 3, 2012 23:22:24 GMT -5 stroker said:

I hit the rev limiter on an orange cdi that was supposedly 'no rev limit' before when i had wayy too light (4g) weights in this bike...

Turns out these TZR50 blue CDIs cut out at a certain rpm too. Higher than the orange boxes i believe but still cut out. Good part is you have to be in the red zone of near destruction before it does...on a 4t say about 8k..which is the point of a rev limit anyway but for them to advertise any of these units as 'no rev limit' is far from what i am finding.

Someone asked a question with regard to the cutting out i mentioned before on that orange box.... wondering if it was something intentional that was built in (rev limiter) or just revved so high the system could not handle things. Mechanical points and condenser systems of old would tend to 'float' when rpms were way high and you would get a hesitation/cutting out feeling when around 9k or so from what i can remember...but what happens when an electronic igniton cuts fire.....there is no doubt...try cycling your kill switch running WOT momentarily ...its the same. Clearly an intentionally designed cut-out.
Sure they work fine and few of us will ever hit it. Hell I had to be going down a steep hill tucked and WOT but it did happen...and for them to advertise as 'no rev limit' when it does cut out.... thats the issue i have. If it cuts out at 8500 or 9000 just tell me you know?

My little Chinese fellow here in NC I started getting wholesale parts from says these are limited to 11,000 rpm....doesnt say that on it anywhere though. But hell under normal circumstances one would never get close to that. Honestly I would rather it be there than not. I would rather it cut out than blow up.

[89CamminGT]

Very helpful info on the cdi boxes. Thank you!

[Deleted]

swaped out the front end of a new bike i have been cannibalizing parts off of....disc brakes stop much better from 50+mph






Its not a 100% match for the rear wheel but its much closer than that drum wheel. From a distance the unknowing eye would never tell.

[90GTVert]

Much better. :thumb:

[Deleted]

May 2, 2012 22:51:49 GMT -5 90GTVert said:

Much better.

Thanks. It stops as good as it goes now...and gets lots of looks around town.

Little details left now. Need new brake levers (the new front end has a chrome brake lever and the rear lever is black but bent....i want 2 new black ones)

That cheapo china windshield is cracked already and so is the one on Midnight. I want a good 'slipstreamer scoot 50' model.

A Leo Vince Titan exhaust would be great on this bike. Those have an awesome sound on a big bore motor... thump thump thump. Considering that.

The LED brake/tail light is worthless. A incandescent 1157 bulb is tons brighter. I want a bright led brake light but...its a crap shoot for me because I dont know which are bright and which are not. Anyone know where to get a BRIGHT led brake light??

[2strokd]

Looks good man! I like the clean (no sticker) approach :cheers:

Dunno about a super bright set of diodes? I got mine from pepboys.
I got the cheapest (lowest performing) one. It works pretty good but ive noticed at angles its harder to see in the daytime than the incandescent bulb was but is still visible.
I did see other, more expensive LEDS there. They a different style diode and more of them. Not 100% they will fit any scooter tail though?

[aeroxbud]

Looks much better with the disc. Much better stopping too