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Wrist pin
Sept 26, 2023 15:04:17 GMT -5
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Post by ziptiejones on Sept 26, 2023 15:04:17 GMT -5
Looking at a 70cc kit for an 04 vino. 10mm wrist pin, correct? I can't imagine it'd be 12 but I wanted to double check
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Post by Zino on Sept 26, 2023 18:05:50 GMT -5
10 mm is correct
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Wrist pin
Sept 28, 2023 9:06:53 GMT -5
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Post by ziptiejones on Sept 28, 2023 9:06:53 GMT -5
Awesome. Thank you. What kind of jets do I need? I googled but there's different ones that come when I search and I want to make sure I get the right ones.Also do I need to worry about changing the oil jet? I was told that they usually come pretty rich from the factory out of caution but I wanted to double check. I've also seen "squish" and "port timing" thrown around a little. I think I understand squish, it's more or less a compression ratio thing, correct? Kinda like milling a head down to bump up CR. But what is port timing?
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Post by Zino on Sept 28, 2023 16:38:34 GMT -5
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Post by Zino on Sept 28, 2023 16:46:22 GMT -5
you are correct Tightening up squish bumps compression up take it too far and you have to run higher octane gas because of detonation
Port Timing The ports in your cylinder exhaust and intake have a peak filling and evacuating of the cylinder The timing part is the Rpm that this happens at Another way people refer to it is the power band
Depending on your goals and budget Reliable Daily rider that pushes 45-50 mph You dont even have to worry about these and gets done for around 500 bucks
When you are trying to push port timing to higher rpms levels and run higher compression You will need a bigger carb a better pipe that matches to the port timing of the cylinder and a better transmision This gets expensive quick and you will be well over 1000 bucks
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Wrist pin
Sept 29, 2023 9:04:55 GMT -5
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Post by ziptiejones on Sept 29, 2023 9:04:55 GMT -5
That is awesome stuff Zino I really appreciate it. We had already ordered an Athena bbk, and tecnigas silent pro exhaust but that should still be pretty close to your malossi set up I assume. I saw on another thread you and another member recommended a polini or malossi variator set up. Is there a considerable difference in the two?
What is chamfering the ports? Why or what benefit was there to going up a tire size on rear? What do you use/how do you raise the exhaust port? Just stack gaskets or cut a stencil from a different material? If I did want to increase squish, what is a reliable way to do that at home? Or should I just have a machine shop take like .5mm off?
I hope I'm not asking too much. I really appreciate the information you've supplied so far and I'm super excited to get all this put together.
*Edit* quick Google search taught me about chamfering.
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Post by Zino on Sept 29, 2023 9:27:54 GMT -5
Chamfering is just knocking the sharp edges off the cylinder The same files that use for chamfering is what i use to raise the ports on a cast iron block.
Since you bought the athena and it is aluminum cylinder with Nicasil You will not need to chamfer the ports the nicasil liner on that cylinder is already chamfered . Unless you by special grinding tools raising the exhaust port is not easy if you chip the nicasil you might have made a paperweight
The athena comes with different size base gaskets so you can raise or lower port timing with the base gaskets.
With the athena I have often just used copper spray only to get down close to the .9 squish they recommend in the cylinder instruction. Anything close to 1 is good enough
I have run an athena and silent pro set up the silent pro pipe makes power down low and runs out of steam in the mid 9's Raising port timing would be a waste of time So to set the athena to match it run the thinnest base gasket that gets you close to .9 squish.
I have run both variators they both work well With the silent pro and athena it has a very wide power band so yo can run weights that are close to stock or up to 1 gram lighter
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Wrist pin
Sept 29, 2023 14:07:37 GMT -5
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Post by ziptiejones on Sept 29, 2023 14:07:37 GMT -5
So smallest base gasket(in-between cylinder and case) Copper spray between head and cylinder
That's the route I want to go?
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Post by Zino on Sept 29, 2023 14:53:02 GMT -5
So smallest base gasket(in-between cylinder and case) Copper spray between head and cylinder
That's the route I want to go?
Yes That has worked for me to get the tightest squish . Measure squish to make sure . Any where close to 1 will make a big difference compared to above 1.5 mm
You might be able to run the head gasket to stay in those ranges .
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Post by aeroxbud on Sept 29, 2023 14:53:29 GMT -5
The cylinder head has a o ring gasket, so no need for copper spray.
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Wrist pin
Sept 29, 2023 15:12:33 GMT -5
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Post by ziptiejones on Sept 29, 2023 15:12:33 GMT -5
How would I measure that to make sure?
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Wrist pin
Sept 29, 2023 15:19:27 GMT -5
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Post by ziptiejones on Sept 29, 2023 15:19:27 GMT -5
I haven't had a 2T apart before so if it'll be obvious when I get in there you can just say that 😂
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Post by Zino on Sept 29, 2023 15:42:54 GMT -5
the athena instructions tells you how to measure squish
with the cylinder assembled with smallest base gasket and copper head gasket tightened down to proper torque . You just take a piece of solder bend it . stick it in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over and then measure how thick the solder has been pressed down to . If it is close to 1mm your done If it it is above 1.5 mm Try mocking it up without the head gasket copper spray only.
Athena Big Bore Cylinder Kit (70cc Bolt On) - 47.66mm Bore model number 070200 does not have a o-ring head so you use the copper gasket it is the sport model
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Wrist pin
Sept 29, 2023 16:29:07 GMT -5
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Post by ziptiejones on Sept 29, 2023 16:29:07 GMT -5
Okay word. Kinda like a plastigauge. I think that it was called. For assembling engines and measuring bearing clearances. But basically I'm just looking to see how close the top of the piston at TDC is to the spark plug, correct?
Also, thank you so much for all the advice and support here.
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Post by Zino on Sept 29, 2023 16:39:16 GMT -5
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