Yamaha vino 50cc 2t exhaust

[luke0000]

Okie so I did more investigating on the bike.

There is a good spark and timing seems right, when the spark plug is in the bike it will usually crank about once and then would start a crunching or clicking of gear sort of noise. When the plug was out it sounded like the bike was cranking over very well no clicking of gears. I was looking at other forums and people say that the starter could be bad? When I try to kick start it there is good compression but would not fire after multiple attempts. The batteries are all good I have about 12.8v. Maybe I’m doing something wrong idk I’m no mechanic lol

[oldgeek]

A Vino battery is small and notoriously weak. From my experience with the big block you will have to kick start it. Once you get it started and the carb tuned correctly it will be easier to kick start. Are you running the stock airbox?

[luke0000]

Yea I got the stock air box on it. But I’ve tried it with the vino battery and with a different battery that has about 8 amps so i don’t think it’s the battery. Anything that else that would prevent it from starting?

[oldgeek]

How did install go, base gasket in place and sealed up good?
Many times using the e start with a few kicks at the same time will start a stubborn scoot. A little starting fluid can rule out fuel delivery, just dont continually spray as there is no oil in starting fluid.

[luke0000]

Yup, I used a loctite silicone gasket maker lightly around the gasket just to ensure it was sealed. And I remember putting everything in correctly, rings lined up, arrow facing exhaust etc. I followed a video as I compeleted it. I will try both kick and starter at the same time when I get home. If I try starting fluid, do I take the air box off? Or leave it on and spray inside the intake? I have a bottle of kleen Flo, not sure if that makes a difference.

[luke0000]

So I got the bike started, the starter is to weak to start the bike
I had to kick it many many times before it finally came alive! Now I have to tune the bike. It would not return to an idle so im gonna assume that the roller weights are too light. I also have to put in the new variatior and temp gauge, purchase a new starter and buy a new clutch spring. Im gonna look in other forums on how to tune the vino unless yall have any good suggestions. Thx!

[oldgeek]

Jan 15, 2024 18:19:42 GMT -5 luke0000 said:

........ It would not return to an idle so im gonna assume that the roller weights are too light.

Roller weights should have nothing to do with it returning to idle. If the idle hangs, it is usually an indication of a seriously lean condition at some point in the throttle range. It could also be the throttle cable not returning to the closed position properly. Keep an eye on the temp gauge, it is your friend.

[luke0000]

I have a main jet kit that goes up to 102, should I start at that then work my way down ? Can it be to to rich to even start? also should I keep the airbox stock? or get a different one?  also people say to run leaner on the first gas tank should I ?

[Zino]

To test the idle after the scooter is well warmed up try this .
If you have a tach this easier but you can listen for idle change
You will also notice this when you have been on a long ride and come to stop signs 

While it is idling blip the throttle a couple of times 3 things will happen
1 the idle will stay higher than normal idle speed and hang there This is lean try turning the idle mixture screw a half turn to the right (right is rich )
2 the idle will come right back to normal speed almost immediately this is perfect for a daily rider
3 the idle speed will drop below normal and then clean up after awhile and go to normal this is too rich try turning idle screw 1/2 turn left and see if that cleans it up

Racers take number 3 because they want a cooling burst of fuel to keep them from seizing off throttle
Daily riders take 2 first and 3 as a second choice 

You should be between 1 and 3 turns out on the idle screw if you have to be outside those ranges to control you need a richer if you are under 1 and aleaner pilot jet if you are over 3

Stick with teh stock airbox it is way easier to keep in a safe tune with that

I see no advantage running leaner and taking a chance I seize a new engine .

[Zino]

if you dont start it for a while even when it is in a good tune it can take a couple of kicks the carb gets bone dry and has to be reprimed by a few kicks .

If you ride it regularily it kicks over on one kick when the carb is tuned right

[Zino]

Get a functional idle first and then tune the main for best performance top speed at wide open throttle than the needle for 1/4 to 3/4 throttle responsiveness and then fine tune the idle for transition to the needle from 0 to 1/4 throttle .

When tuning the carb if 2 main jets give the same top speed take the richer one on the main
If 2 needle settings give the same responsiveness on and off throttle take the richer one .

[TheScooterJesus]

Jan 15, 2024 19:24:44 GMT -5 luke0000 said:

I have a main jet kit that goes up to 102, should I start at that then work my way down ? Can it be to to rich to even start? also should I keep the airbox stock? or get a different one?  also people say to run leaner on the first gas tank should I ?

I usually start high and work my way down the main jets  AFTER making certain the idle jet can keep the bike idle on its own.

[Lucass2T]

Jan 15, 2024 20:03:43 GMT -5 Zino said:

To test the idle after the scooter is well warmed up try this .
If you have a tach this easier but you can listen for idle change
You will also notice this when you have been on a long ride and come to stop signs 

While it is idling blip the throttle a couple of times 3 things will happen
1 the idle will stay higher than normal idle speed and hang there This is lean try turning the idle mixture screw a half turn to the right (right is rich )
2 the idle will come right back to normal speed almost immediately this is perfect for a daily rider
3 the idle speed will drop below normal and then clean up after awhile and go to normal this is too rich try turning idle screw 1/2 turn left and see if that cleans it up

Racers take number 3 because they want a cooling burst of fuel to keep them from seizing off throttle
Daily riders take 2 first and 3 as a second choice 

You should be between 1 and 3 turns out on the idle screw if you have to be outside those ranges to control you need a richer if you are under 1 and aleaner pilot jet if you are over 3

Stick with teh stock airbox it is way easier to keep in a safe tune with that

I see no advantage running leaner and taking a chance I seize a new engine .

Like Zino said, there is 1 rule to this: The engine must be fully up to operating temps!
For an aircooled motor thats after about 5 minutes of fast riding, not just idling.
You have to absolutely make sure the engine is up to operating temps before you attempt any carb tuning.

Also, the bike should always start after just 1 firm kick. Stone cold or fully warmed up, it doesn't matter. If it won't do this you have to adjust the idle mixture.

[luke0000]

I see exactly what you’re saying but am i able to drive it around to get the engine warmed up without damaging anything? Could you explain the way you ruin an engine so I can avoid it? I’m always thinking of the worst lol . Also do I just leave the idle screw alone while adjusting the mixture? because ive messed with it a lil

[bigmatthew86]

If you have a temp gauge now keep it below 350 degrees. You want to jet the main so that at wide open for a fair distance it hits a max temp of 350 or under. If you see it start climbing to 350 & seems like it wants to keep climbing slow down & add a size bigger main jet. If you’re only making it to 280 degrees drop 2 sizes & see what you get then. 350 is also a safe number so it doesn’t mean at 351 you melt down, just it’s a good safe temp for lots of miles.