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Post by spaz12 on Oct 26, 2017 18:50:27 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 26, 2017 21:02:38 GMT -5
Thanks for the offer spaz12. I hate to see that your scoot is going and I'd rather see you get something from it if it must go. As I've said, I have no clue what I'm doing yet though. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 29, 2017 7:09:01 GMT -5
I've got a question about the radiators that you used spaz12 (or anyone that can answer). Here are my assumptions, but I'm not sure about them : 1 - Inlet 2 & 3 Connect 4 - Outlet 5 - Outlet 6 - Expansion/Overflow So, I'm thinking 4&5 have to go to a T and then back to the engine. Is this anywhere near correct or am I way off?  The pair that I was looking at from a YZ125 seem more straight forward to me and a little easier to run hoses for, though I may be wrong on those too. 1 - Inlet 2 & 3 Connect 4 & 5 Connect 6 - Outlet 7 - Expansion/Overflow  |
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Post by 190mech on Oct 29, 2017 8:17:34 GMT -5
Just like a car,hot at the top,bottom for cold...
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 29, 2017 9:52:35 GMT -5
Just like a car,hot at the top,bottom for cold... That part I figured I had right, but I don't quite get why you'd want two outlets (cooled; out to the engine) that have to be T'ed vs just one that would be cleaner. Is there some cooling benefit? Even if so, I'd be surprised if what works for a 125 wouldn't be plenty for 70-100cc scoot engines. Not sure if I'm wrong about what they are. I know the diagram from Yamaha shows them T'ed (doesn't show where anything goes though), so I'm pretty sure I'm right on all connections. Mostly curious why the extra connections of the 250 setup, because the 1 outlet would be cleaner and easier to do. |
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Post by 190mech on Oct 29, 2017 11:56:04 GMT -5
I think its for the frame design,not cooling..I guess 1 rad would be plenty as most 80/100 MX bikes use only one,but the LC production scoots use much larger rads(with fans) than the MX stuff,,maybe for sitting in traffic??
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 29, 2017 14:10:50 GMT -5
Never thought about factory considerations for routing due to the frame. Thanks for the input John. Just a quest for info to see if I'm missing something important here. Oversizing makes sense for traffic. Something isn't going well if you're stuck in traffic on a dirt track, though they do seem to handle tooling around through the woods at low speed well AFAIK... but no hot black asphalt to exacerbate the heat in most forests. I'm not so sure that the two of these rads aren't bigger than what the TMAX has, but I may be way wrong there because that scoot is so much larger that it could be deceiving and it does have a fan that I hope to not need on the small scoot. Best pics I have of the TMAX 500 radiator for size.   |
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Post by spaz12 on Oct 29, 2017 18:03:35 GMT -5
I've got a question about the radiators that you used spaz12 (or anyone that can answer). Here are my assumptions, but I'm not sure about them : 1 - Inlet 2 & 3 Connect 4 - Outlet 5 - Outlet 6 - Expansion/Overflow So, I'm thinking 4&5 have to go to a T and then back to the engine. Is this anywhere near correct or am I way off? The pair that I was looking at from a YZ125 seem more straight forward to me and a little easier to run hoses for, though I may be wrong on those too. 1 - Inlet 2 & 3 Connect 4 & 5 Connect 6 - Outlet 7 - Expansion/Overflow What you show in the first picture is how I have mine hooked up. I like the second set of radiator you show, and they look easier to plumb. I was lucky to find a set of used hoses and a slanted "T" online, otherwise I would of had a helluva hard time connecting my bottom hoses in the limited room between belly pan and frame. Also, you really don't need an overflow bottle, just use a hose directed away from body parts. I don't even use one because of my center braces and luckily it's never over flowed. |
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Post by 'O'Verse on Oct 29, 2017 21:19:12 GMT -5
The radiators in your first pic have 3 different size hoses needed just to make everything work. Plus the T needed. Pic 2 has 2 different sizes and a much easier set up. I wasn't a fan of the hose coming from the top and running down in front by my legs. Between having enough cash at the time and mainly because it's a half naked build. I went with the Zuma bolt on radiators from Scootertuning.ca. But for a $150 less either radiator choice will obviously work just as good. Especially if you can conceal it good like Spaz.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 29, 2017 21:47:51 GMT -5
Won't be much concealing here :   I don't need anything super clean and showy if I go this route... I mean... look at the thing. I do like ease of use though. Thinking about concealment brings me back around to wondering about cops. I talked to a local friend that used to scoot a bit, just looking for opinions from anyone that rides locally. He's kinda thinking like me, that there's potential that I cross a line and cops start pulling me over, but then maybe they won't even notice or think twice about it in most cases. Kinda like an old Mitch Hedberg line, "people either loved us or hated us... or they thought we were okay". It's really hard to know till you try it, but learning everything the hard way isn't fun. I don't really plan on letting that stop me, but in all the years riding 100s around and being ignored, it would suck if my luck was to cross that line with a couple of radiators. |
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Post by 'O'Verse on Oct 29, 2017 22:38:41 GMT -5
Yep that's definetley the first generation of water cooling in your pic. Driving an a/c cylinder through actual water. Haha! Well if anybody asks just explain to them that the newer scooters are all water cooled for longer engine life. Or are they!
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Post by spaz12 on Oct 30, 2017 23:38:39 GMT -5
How loud my pipe is has always been my concern with cops. Luckily I never drove past a motorcycle cop here with mine. I have zero doubts that they wouldn't have pull me over had they heard it. Of course that's all motorcycle cops do here; enforce traffic laws.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 31, 2017 5:41:15 GMT -5
 Two Radiators Peace Pipe Double Legal Displacement & Speed  $1000+ In Fines + Impound (Handcuffs Optional) - Coming Soon  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 9, 2017 22:18:26 GMT -5
I was able to get 10% back on eBay purchases recently, so I picked up a couple of things.  I bought the 54mm Motoritec liquid cooled cylinder kit from autotech355. www.ebay.com/itm/Top-End-water-cooled-8-ports-54mm-big-bore-kit-for-Apex-Pro-MXR-90-ATV/232497004981  I don't recall seeing a piston quite like this stock. Looked like they were going for smoothed windows, till I saw the other side.   I guess someone didn't want us to know who made the head?  Nice machine work there.    Ports look about the same as the HOCA cylinders I've used; as expected.       Gotta get a bleeder for this passage. www.g-forcepowersports.com/product-p/15872-e01-000.htm  Overall, the Motoritec kit is disappointing for a $300 cylinder kit. It's pretty much just what I expected though. It's basically an overpriced version on the Motoritec or HOCA 8 port air cooled cylinders. Motortec AC 54mm 8 port was $151, this was $300. Just for comparison, you could get a nice Malossi cylinder for a stock stroke for about the same money. www.g-forcepowersports.com/Malossi-90cc-Cylinder-3116919-p/3116919.htmThe problem is, if you don't want to go high-end/race you don't have much choice for a 100cc. I'd have to see a lot of benefit for it to make much sense financially to continue using these and not go back to AC. Also got a set of 2005-2013 Yamaha YZ125 radiators from GPI Racing. They were $78 shipped before any discounts. www.ebay.com/itm/for-YAMAHA-YZ125-YZ-125-2005-2013-2012-2011-2010-2009-Aluminum-Radiator/152440420823     1.1 bar / 16psi radiator cap.  This one's about 12" tall.  This ones around 13.5" tall total.  Not counting brackets, most of the radiators are under 2" thick, but go over 2" around the cap.   I don't find the details in most water cooled swaps, so I'll try to provide what I can as I go along for anyone else interested in this path.... starting with a bit of hose routing and sizes for the YZ125 radiator pair now that I have my own pic to use.  1 = 16mm : Inlet/Hot (From water pump outlet [bottom]) 2 = 14mm : Connects to 3 3 = 14mm : Connects to 2 4 = 8mm : Expansion/Overflow (To expansion tank or hose routed toward ground) 5 = 14mm : Connects to 6 6 = 14mm : Connects to 5 7 = 18mm : Outlet/Cold (To Cylinder Head) Motoritec's coolant ports info : Cylinder = 17.5mm : To water pump inlet (top) Head = 17mm : To radiator outlet/cold Don't expect updates on the LC stuff anytime soon. Prob won't do anything to it till around when Spring arrives again. I'll let you know if I get any other parts though. Thinking I'll grab a couple of other parts if there are Black Friday or Cyber Monday deals after Thanksgiving. To the people that have offered me free/cheap parts; thank you very much for the offers. No offense meant not taking you up on the offers. I just wanted to do it my way if I was gonna do it. It may be the wrong way, but once I get it in my head for a while I get stuck on it. |
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Post by 2strokd on Nov 10, 2017 6:15:07 GMT -5
I got that same top-end for an Aprilia 103cc build. Also found it interesting that the head was ground on.. Poor casting/clean-up as well. Something i would expect from a cheap cylinder kit, but a $300 one isnt cheap IMO. Cool build  |
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