Triton # 2 (T2) 49cc to 110cc & Nearly Everywhere In Between
Aug 5, 2018 15:58:53 GMT -5
2strokd, 190mech, and 1 more like this
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 5, 2018 15:58:53 GMT -5
I got a few BR7HS plugs in yesterday, so I installed one. Actually bought BR7HS-10 with 1mm gaps because they were slightly cheaper and gapped one down to 0.024". I figured I'd just look out for spark knock or any signs of trouble before taking it on any long rides.
Swapped the cut down drive boss and 11g sliders out for the normal drive boss and 10g.
I picked up 3 springs for the exhaust that are just a tiny bit stiffer. Not a whole lot of options at the local hardware store, but they were cheap enough. I thought I'd try using 2, and have 1 spare.
I didn't have anything around that I thought would be good for welding to the pipe to hold a second spring. A metal clothes hanger was about as close as I had here to something suitable, but it didn't seem beefy enough. For now, I used the spring that I started with plus one larger spring both on the original spot.
I also changed the NCY stator and flywheel for the stock-modified ones so I could get some charging going and be able to ride at night. It sounds lazy as soon as the larger diameter, heavier flywheel goes back on... but it's at 13-14V at idle with the headlight on instead of 12.X and falling over time with the NCY.
I took it down the road to the spot I showed you in a previous video where the exhaust quonked at me (quacked+honked). I went over the sharp bumps at speed and I didn't get any obnoxious outbursts. I think it got slightly louder, but I mean really slightly. Good enough till I can add a second set of loops for another spring.
I headed down the road a little farther and started to hear a rattle. Nothing else appeared to be wrong, so I thought maybe it was something with the CVT cover/kickstart/support bearing. Whatever. Kept rolling on. Then this happened...
You may notice that I went WOT when it was starting to die. I didn't let out because I thought it was another plug fouling or my ignition going bad at first. When the kick lever didn't want to move, I was sure it was more serious. The ride only lasted 3.3 miles with more than half of it lower on the throttle.
Initially I thought, wow that 1 heat range is no joke. Then I thought that really shouldn't be the case. Maybe the 7 was hot enough to burn the fuel instead of fouling and suddenly that made it lean? I wasn't sure, but the 7 was the only change made that I hadn't used before without issue.
I removed the spark plug today and it had something on it, but I wasn't really sure what. BR7HS on left with BR8HS on right.
I started taking it apart today to see what's up. I drained the coolant and took the exhaust off to be sure no coolant would get into the pipe when the head was removed. I shook the pipe and some debris was rattling around inside. I shook it and tried to dump it out of the header and tailpipes. Got some metal out. Put a magnet in one end and shook to get a little more out. That gave me this pile. On the first few pieces, I thought maybe a ring broke, but then I realize this had to be a wrist pin failure.
I blew compressed air though the exhaust while shaking it and after a while I didn't hear anything else in the pipe.
I pulled the head and cylinder and piston off. Not good. Here's the head, really chewed up from the bearing parts.
This was all that was left on the wrist pin of the bearing.
The piston is a beaut! There is a little sink in the center of the crown. Not sure if that came from the heat of it trying to seize up from parts grinding or what.
As much as those sucked, the cylinder is the depressing part. These are the worst gouges I recall having in a cylinder, and I've had a few wrist pin bearings come apart. Some are over 1mm wide and 1mm or so deep.
I can't say that it can't be used again, but the last time I had the head off for the gasket failure I didn't even see scuffing. I was really happy about that, because my AC stuff is always scuffed. $300 cylinder, bought because I was looking for long term reliability, screwed up over a wrist pin bearing with 1,000 miles on it. I've destroyed my wallet looking for reliability with a side of power and now I'm wishing I spent an extra $20 on a Wiseco bearing instead of the one that came with the kit from Autotech355 or the crank from PFS (forget which included it for sure ATM). Didn't anticipate any trouble with a Taiwan made piece and I've used Taiwan pin bearings plenty before.
Haven't even checked the crank yet to see if this damaged the conrod.
Swapped the cut down drive boss and 11g sliders out for the normal drive boss and 10g.
I picked up 3 springs for the exhaust that are just a tiny bit stiffer. Not a whole lot of options at the local hardware store, but they were cheap enough. I thought I'd try using 2, and have 1 spare.
I didn't have anything around that I thought would be good for welding to the pipe to hold a second spring. A metal clothes hanger was about as close as I had here to something suitable, but it didn't seem beefy enough. For now, I used the spring that I started with plus one larger spring both on the original spot.
I also changed the NCY stator and flywheel for the stock-modified ones so I could get some charging going and be able to ride at night. It sounds lazy as soon as the larger diameter, heavier flywheel goes back on... but it's at 13-14V at idle with the headlight on instead of 12.X and falling over time with the NCY.
I took it down the road to the spot I showed you in a previous video where the exhaust quonked at me (quacked+honked). I went over the sharp bumps at speed and I didn't get any obnoxious outbursts. I think it got slightly louder, but I mean really slightly. Good enough till I can add a second set of loops for another spring.
I headed down the road a little farther and started to hear a rattle. Nothing else appeared to be wrong, so I thought maybe it was something with the CVT cover/kickstart/support bearing. Whatever. Kept rolling on. Then this happened...
You may notice that I went WOT when it was starting to die. I didn't let out because I thought it was another plug fouling or my ignition going bad at first. When the kick lever didn't want to move, I was sure it was more serious. The ride only lasted 3.3 miles with more than half of it lower on the throttle.
Initially I thought, wow that 1 heat range is no joke. Then I thought that really shouldn't be the case. Maybe the 7 was hot enough to burn the fuel instead of fouling and suddenly that made it lean? I wasn't sure, but the 7 was the only change made that I hadn't used before without issue.
I removed the spark plug today and it had something on it, but I wasn't really sure what. BR7HS on left with BR8HS on right.
I started taking it apart today to see what's up. I drained the coolant and took the exhaust off to be sure no coolant would get into the pipe when the head was removed. I shook the pipe and some debris was rattling around inside. I shook it and tried to dump it out of the header and tailpipes. Got some metal out. Put a magnet in one end and shook to get a little more out. That gave me this pile. On the first few pieces, I thought maybe a ring broke, but then I realize this had to be a wrist pin failure.
I blew compressed air though the exhaust while shaking it and after a while I didn't hear anything else in the pipe.
I pulled the head and cylinder and piston off. Not good. Here's the head, really chewed up from the bearing parts.
This was all that was left on the wrist pin of the bearing.
The piston is a beaut! There is a little sink in the center of the crown. Not sure if that came from the heat of it trying to seize up from parts grinding or what.
As much as those sucked, the cylinder is the depressing part. These are the worst gouges I recall having in a cylinder, and I've had a few wrist pin bearings come apart. Some are over 1mm wide and 1mm or so deep.
I can't say that it can't be used again, but the last time I had the head off for the gasket failure I didn't even see scuffing. I was really happy about that, because my AC stuff is always scuffed. $300 cylinder, bought because I was looking for long term reliability, screwed up over a wrist pin bearing with 1,000 miles on it. I've destroyed my wallet looking for reliability with a side of power and now I'm wishing I spent an extra $20 on a Wiseco bearing instead of the one that came with the kit from Autotech355 or the crank from PFS (forget which included it for sure ATM). Didn't anticipate any trouble with a Taiwan made piece and I've used Taiwan pin bearings plenty before.
Haven't even checked the crank yet to see if this damaged the conrod.
