|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 6, 2018 6:16:35 GMT -5
I greatly appreciate the generosity. Still means instead of the $315 cylinder I'd need a piston and a $400 crank at least. Didn't sound like the cheaper TPR crank had a great reputation from what I recall. From watching PIG's videos with the TPR, it didn't start moving till around 10,000RPM. Seeing revs over 13,000. Cruising around a neighborhood it was more like 9,000-10,000RPM and I'm more likely to be cruising between 40-60MPH most of the time. I've got 11.2:1 gears though. Not sure what the Zuma had. I guess if it's more dictated by the pipe, then maybe it would rev lower. My max power with the 103cc has been around 9,000-10,000RPM. Pulls up to about 10,500 decent. If it does need to rev higher, how is it gonna like a stock flywheel and stator? I have to be done with the NCY real soon because days will get short and when I go to shows (or just riding in general) I could be out a long time. I need charging and prefer to stay with the full wave rectification and DC lighting. iwiketuddlz tried to use stock flywheels with a high end kit and had 2 come apart. He wa son a 94cc Big Evo, but seemed to have mostly headaches just trying to ride it to work and be easy on it. Shouldn't I then have to go back to a bigger carb and intake (reeds?) than the 21mm Dell? There have been a few discussions here about racing kits fro real street use. Not many specifics, but I haven't found anyone yet saying they ride theirs 200+ miles or 6-12 hours straight in a day. Some car shows I've gone multiple days and racked up 600-750 miles and 25-30 hours in 3 days. When it already seems like these belts are stressed, what are the chances that I beat on it all day and make it home without one coming apart with more power and more revs? Not sure my stock clutch is going to like taking off too much higher in RPM. I think you guys know me well enough not to say this, but just in case... Don't suggest self-restraint or sensible riding as an option to use a racing setup for real street use. I'm incapable of those things. I don't care if I see a stock 4T riding 2up, they're getting everything I've got, and I'm not gonna cruise around at 30-40MPH to keep it revving reasonable on long rides. Maybe I'm all wrong, but I think this will end up a lot more involved than just swapping the crank and cylinder and blasting off with a smile on my face.
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Aug 6, 2018 8:35:31 GMT -5
OK,here I go again,,why a high end crank??? My concern would be the bridged ex port getting super hot on long rides,either cracking or expanding into the piston..Lots of european motorcycles have used bridged ports,so maybe worry is in overload.. Think that ride ran a stock iggy for a while? Port durations determine the wildness of a cylinder,perhaps it could be lowered and squish adjusted to tame it down if needed..
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on Aug 6, 2018 8:41:03 GMT -5
I take a road trip and miss out on all sorts of juicy destruction. Sucks about the bearing failure. I’ve said it before I’ve got a 77 with pipe you can play with if you want it.
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on Aug 6, 2018 8:42:22 GMT -5
Remember i took my 70mph daily with bridged ex port on a 1000km roadtrip without ANY problems. Later on when a head bolt had come loose, the engine developed a slight airleak, ran a little lean..the piston dome got dimple like yours. But other than a worn belt i had no issues whatsoever. Cruise 9k rpm at 45-50mph.
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 6, 2018 9:12:25 GMT -5
I'm just concerned about a whole lot of headaches when all I wanna do is ride. I really don't enjoy building at this point. I've spent the whole spring and summer doing that for really nothing. 1 whole ride to the beach, 1 ride that I made it most of the day before the truck had to get me. 1,000 miles in that time to me is crap. 1,000 miles is a couple of good weekends, not a season. (Just realized Lucass mentioned his 1,000km trip so I wanna be clear I mean the 1,000 miles I have on this, not what he did.) I've had enough of it. We all love the process to some degree, but I'm over that part of it. It's time to ride the damn thing. It's not time to figure out why it sucks again, how to get a mismatched setup to have proper specs, how to have lights and charging with little flywheel mass, how to keep belts on it, etc... Even with that said, I was still fouling plugs and who knows where that will lead. Most of the reason I went to LC was hope of reliability and look how that has gone so far.
I figured the expensive crank is prob a necessity to get the right stroke and conrod length. I think some of mine have been 84mm with the 90s, but I could be wrong. Either way, I've got 1mm more stroke and I would think the last thing I need to do is stretch durations out even further when I want it to rev about 2,000RPM lower consistently than what I've seen it doing on videos.
As far as load, remember I weigh near double what some of you do. I'm 300lbs. There are couples riding 2up that don't match my weight.
If you take a racing cylinder, figure out how to lower it's durations, run it with a pipe built for 20 more cc and less RPM... then how can it be expected to perform like it should? Am I really going to get into all of this to go 1/2 second quicker to 60MPH or is it going to be a monster compared to what I've had. Then if it is a monster in comparison, I can never be convinced that it won't be way harder to maintain.
I do not claim to know much about the higher revving stuff. I've never followed it closely because as cool as I think it is, I just never thought it was for me. We all know if we want max reliability we stick closer to stock and mild stuff. The more power you make, the more everything gets stressed. The more picky it gets about the tune, the more the tuner gets stressed. How far can I really push it is where the thoughts always end for me. Sorry to be a noob about the racing end of things, but I've spent years tearing stuff up just trying to ride more mild stuff the way I do.
|
|
|
Post by PIG on Aug 6, 2018 10:13:35 GMT -5
Well the offer still stands. Build your other 2t scoot or just wait till winter too build this scoot. I really think this cylinder will treat you well.
|
|
|
Post by PIG on Aug 6, 2018 11:07:26 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 6, 2018 11:37:04 GMT -5
Your offer is sincerely appreciated PIG. The cylinder looks great and I've certainly used heads much worse. I'm not trying to look a gift horse in the mouth. I'm only trying to figure out what is best for my situation. Building a second scooter as a racing rig sounds great; till reality sets in and I know that the first thing I'd want to do is ride it to the beach and devastate the rentals and then we're right back to where we are now. lol I have had pretty much everyone I know tell me it makes more sense to put the scooter in the back of the truck and take it to the beach. I think they're probably right. I also think that sucks.
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Aug 6, 2018 11:50:35 GMT -5
Too bad there isnt an old Gilera runner 180 in a shed somewhere for sale for cheap..Would love to find one and splice an old school MX jug on it..Bet it would make many trips to the beach!
|
|
|
Post by pitobread on Aug 6, 2018 11:50:47 GMT -5
I would also give the Canuck Scooter peddlers a call. I messaged them the other day and the Piaggio 44mm stroke 85mm cranks for the Malossi 86cc kit were super cheap(the whole kits were). Maybe there is a cheap one that will fit the bill for you?
I think the pro race stuff is high risk/reward for sure, but it sure is an eye opener as well.
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 6, 2018 12:03:24 GMT -5
Too bad there isnt an old Gilera runner 180 in a shed somewhere for sale for cheap..Would love to find one and splice an old school MX jug on it..Bet it would make many trips to the beach! What I was thinking earlier is it's a shame I can't just have a about a 125 MX engine with a big CVT that's meant for more power than it has. Seeing the TMAX with 20,000 miles on it's belt really is an eye opener that it doesn't have to be so damn hard. Unfortunately, this is what we get for working with engines that were only meant for 40MPH and around town riding with low cost.
|
|
|
Post by pitobread on Aug 6, 2018 14:25:58 GMT -5
PIG ryan_ottJust ship that stuff to Brett, I will pay the shipping fee. It will be my donation to 49ccscoot.
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on Aug 6, 2018 15:01:30 GMT -5
Yeah cmon Bret You can't refuse this!
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 6, 2018 15:58:15 GMT -5
I appreciate the offers, but as of now I still think I'd be better off with the 103 and if the stuff is gonna sit here then it's better if it could help someone else. Why waste money shipping it for nothing? If the crank is OK then maybe I'll hone the cylinder and put a piston in it and hope it's not total junk with the gouges and whatnot. That's about the only option that makes sense for my budget anyway, especially with a rear tire getting bald and possible ignition issues and needing to get more belts. I thought all of those were bad enough and then the engine snickered at me and said "you ain't seen shit yet".
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 6, 2018 16:53:28 GMT -5
I took a look at the crank. Movement feels good, no excessive play. The part I was worried about is the small end of the conrod. I saw some marks that looked almost like stains to me so I took a fluffy little soft buff ball and ran that through for about 5-10 seconds with Mother's polish. I can still see marks in one spot. I can't feel them with my finger and I tried using a plastic screwdriver/pry type tool to go over it and not scratch anything and I can't feel anything that way either.
|
|