|
|
Post by 2strokd on Aug 7, 2018 9:06:18 GMT -5
Man, im sorry she shit the bed  . Small end bearing failure is way too common in the 2T Mina,s. Have one in the shop now that came apart like this. I also wonder if the load on the engine from rider weight is a contributing factor in failures? When i used to ride double with my wife on the back of my scoot ide notice the strain on the lil AC 70 of mine. And like you said we both dont weight 300lbs combined. That extra load might play hell on the small end bearings? Maybe spring for the better Wiseco bearings in the future like you mentioned. Speaking of springs, try welding a washer to your pipe for a spring holder. |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 7, 2018 10:52:51 GMT -5
Speaking of springs, try welding a washer to your pipe for a spring holder. Wouldn't have thought of that one. Stopped into the local salvage store earlier today that more or less carries random junk that they can pick up cheap. It's occasionally good for materials. It's the place I got the aluminum for my frame brace for less than $10 (aluminum door handle). Found a BBQ fork with a steel rod between the fork and handle for $0.99 and I think I can bend the rod and use it. Local hardware places don't seem to carry below 1/4" rod and it would be way more than 99 cents anyway. |
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Aug 7, 2018 16:35:02 GMT -5
Ive been using fence staples bent slightly in a vice for spring hooks,works good...
|
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Aug 7, 2018 18:41:50 GMT -5
Looking back a few pages at the scored cylinder,the combustion process all happens to the top edge of the exhaust port,gouges above that point will allow the combustion pressure to bleed into the fresh crankcase charge of mixture,the Vespa guru's think this leads to more power,but the rest of the tuners through out the world do their best to keep this from happening..Heck,I'd hone the cylinder and try it,if the small end is good,all you'd have in it is a piston kit,bearing,and gaskets..What is there to lose??  |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 8, 2018 5:40:20 GMT -5
That's the plan. I'm not that optimistic, but I've already got a piston kit and gasket set. May have to make one for the base because I think the kit from PFS is thinner. Waiting on 2 things. The Wiseco wrist pin bearing, and the desire to spend much time in the garage for fun in this weather.
|
|
|
|
Post by pitobread on Aug 8, 2018 13:08:52 GMT -5
Too bad there isnt an old Gilera runner 180 in a shed somewhere for sale for cheap..Would love to find one and splice an old school MX jug on it..Bet it would make many trips to the beach!  Off topic I know but are we ever really on a topic? Anyone know what that headset cover is from for the naked bar setup? |
|
|
|
Post by islandscrub on Aug 8, 2018 16:17:57 GMT -5
Thanks for that link, I bought two of em |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 10, 2018 14:40:59 GMT -5
The replacement Vapor came in the other day. It's a little different than what I had. Buttons are now rubbery and the warning lights look different.  Looks like they've changed how they measure ambient temp as well. Old model had something internal instead of this slug.  They no longer label the leads and instead switched the power connector so everything is different and you can't plug them in wrong. For me, that just meant I had to cut off the end and solder the new setup onto what I had.  The mounting bracket is now beefier. Still flexes when I press buttons, but not quite as much as before.  I was going to remove the TTO now that I can hook up the coolant temp to the backlit Vapor, but decided to swap the CHT over to the TTO for now. I'm expecting it to be like others have said and not that useful, but it's not costing me anything to see for myself. Here's the $0.99 BBQ fork that I bought to turn into spring hooks for the Peace Pipe.   I placed the one on the pipe a little lower so the spring will have to stretch more, and so I didn't have to weld it onto a seam in the pipe.  Should be all ready for an extra spring.  I gave the cylinder a quick hone with a ball hone. I think it looks worse now that I can clearly see how many of those lines are more than just marks.     I put the head in the lathe, thinking I could cut down the cratered surface easier that way. Not gonna work. I tried an adapter that John sent me when I got the lathe and a spark plug. Either way, I couldn't get it to have less than about 0.060" runout. I think the spark plug threads go into the head at a slight angle so it's just not gonna get straight. What sucks is that eBay did a 15% off 1 item coupon a couple of days ago. I got it at night and it was good for a few hours. Autotech had marked this kit down $15 as well, so it would have ended up about $255 instead of $315. I was tired and felt like crap after being in the sun for a long time that day. Told myself I'd probably order it after dinner. Went to bed early without recalling it so I missed that chance. |
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Aug 10, 2018 16:06:46 GMT -5
How did the con rod little end look??Any grooves???
|
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 10, 2018 18:18:57 GMT -5
No grooves. I've had one fail and make grooves in the rod, but this one just left a few marks in one spot. I took a look at the crank. Movement feels good, no excessive play. The part I was worried about is the small end of the conrod. I saw some marks that looked almost like stains to me so I took a fluffy little soft buff ball and ran that through for about 5-10 seconds with Mother's polish. I can still see marks in one spot. I can't feel them with my finger and I tried using a plastic screwdriver/pry type tool to go over it and not scratch anything and I can't feel anything that way either.  |
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Aug 10, 2018 18:54:59 GMT -5
OOPS! I missed that post..Ive had poor luck with 10mm pin small ends and am a bit gun shy when the the little bearing shatters...  |
|
|
|
Post by 2strokd on Aug 11, 2018 8:27:56 GMT -5
Glad the rod is ok!
I think investing in a better quality bearing is a good idea with most 70cc and beyond Minarelli builds. Too many fail too early with the extra load. Good call on the Wiseco bearing. Hope its not a problem again.
This build didnt have many miles/hours on it at before the bearing failed did it?
|
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 11, 2018 8:41:58 GMT -5
. This build didnt have many miles/hours on it at before the bearing failed did it? 1,006 miles. |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 11, 2018 8:43:54 GMT -5
I've added some info to the table I started pages ago about pumps to include current draw and more pumps. Re-posting here so if anyone has info that can fill in the blanks (sources appreciated... your tests, links, whatever) that would be great or if you have other pumps with specs to add that's also appreciated. Should be useful info for LC swappers and modders. I found flow specs on the Prius inverter pump on a YouTube video, but they're low (like 8L/min) and I think it's because he's only running it at 11V. 12-14V specs preferred so it's a more common range typical 12V systems. | Liters/Min | Liters/Hour | Gallons/Min | Gallons/Hour | Current Draw | | HOCA Mechanical Pump @ Idle (1,500-2,000RPM) | 9.4 | 564 | 2.5 | 149 | N/A | | HOCA Mechanical Pump @ Est. 2,500-3,000RPM | 18.6 | 1116 | 4.9 | 294 | N/A | | Toyota Prius Heater Pump | 11.6 | 696 | 3.1 | 186 | 0.4A | | Toyota Prius Inverter Pump |
|
|
|
| 1.8A | Malossi Energy Pump Part # 5616363
| 20 | 1,200 | 5.3 | 320 | 1.6A | | Motoforce Electric Pump | 8.5-8.9 | ~522 | ~2.3 | ~138 | | | Taida Electric Pump | 8 | 480 | 2.1 | 126 | | | Voca Electric Pump | 15 | 900 | 4.0 | 240 | | | Bosch PAD Brushless Pump | 15 | 900 | 4.0 | 240 | 1.1A | | ARF33 New Generation Racing Pump | 15 | 900 | 4.0 | 240 | 1A |
|
|
|
|
Post by gsx600racer on Aug 12, 2018 1:36:19 GMT -5
I've added some info to the table I started pages ago about pumps to include current draw and more pumps. Re-posting here so if anyone has info that can fill in the blanks (sources appreciated... your tests, links, whatever) that would be great or if you have other pumps with specs to add that's also appreciated. Should be useful info for LC swappers and modders. I found flow specs on the Prius inverter pump on a YouTube video, but they're low (like 8L/min) and I think it's because he's only running it at 11V. 12-14V specs preferred so it's a more common range typical 12V systems. | Liters/Min | Liters/Hour | Gallons/Min | Gallons/Hour | Current Draw | | HOCA Mechanical Pump @ Idle (1,500-2,000RPM) | 9.4 | 564 | 2.5 | 149 | N/A | | HOCA Mechanical Pump @ Est. 2,500-3,000RPM | 18.6 | 1116 | 4.9 | 294 | N/A | | Toyota Prius Heater Pump | 11.6 | 696 | 3.1 | 186 | 0.4A | | Toyota Prius Inverter Pump |
|
|
|
| 1.8A | Malossi Energy Pump Part # 5616363
| 20 | 1,200 | 5.3 | 320 | 1.6A | | Motoforce Electric Pump | 8.5-8.9 | ~522 | ~2.3 | ~138 | | | Taida Electric Pump | 8 | 480 | 2.1 | 126 | | | Bosch PAD Brushless Pump | 15 | 900 | 4.0 | 240 | 1.1A |
Its amazing that the prius heater pump moves more "water" @ 4x LESS amps(.4A) than the inverter pump that moves less "water" and draws more amps(1.8A). Go figure. I'm on the fence, buy a heater pump used(ebay) or get the bosch for new @ almost the same price(rock auto). Being in the 1A range would be nice, being in the .4A range is even better. |
|
. Small end bearing failure is way too common in the 2T Mina,s. Have one in the shop now that came apart like this. 
