Triton # 2 (T2) 49cc to 110cc & Nearly Everywhere In Between

[90GTVert]

Just ordered 4 BR8HSA and 4 BPR8HS as well. HSA has a longer center electrode. The P plug has a projected tip. I've always used BR8HS, but anything projected out of the plug should run hotter at lower speeds and cooler at higher speeds. When my fouling issues first started, I had to ride with more throttle to keep them cleaned, so I'm wondering if keeping them a little hotter when I'm easier on the engine could help. Not sure if it will like running cooler WOT or not.

[90GTVert]

It was misting and 65, so I just went for the second ride. This time with a BR8HS instead of the 7. I thought maybe it was a real tight kit so I needed to break it in a little. I crept around and ran it up to 50MPH and let off multiple times. Then held it just past 50 and it died. Started quickly feeling like it was dragging so I let off and that's when it died. Stopped and it started right up. Rode home slower just fine. At least I know it's not the plug. That's about all I know.

Ignition timing is prob a little high because I get some spark knock. I'll need to back that off a hair.

Before I do that, I'll probably put in a main jet a couple of sizes larger and see what happens.

CHT said 270F max. I noticed in town that it was about 200F. That's ~50F lower than I recall from past setups in town, so I'm thinking the CHT is at least that much off of what I'm used to.

[90GTVert]

I swapped from a 98 main to a 105 main and now it acts like it can't take that much fuel. Sputters and won't run clean. Still dies WOT.

I may start trying to check or swap some ignition parts. I've never had plug fouling problems on any of my builds and this one isn't that much different, and it starting fouling plugs before it blew the wrist pin apart.

[190mech]

Yeah,when plugs start fowling for no reason the iggy is telling ya something..It was usually the CDI box on dirt bikes,rarely stators and coils FWIW...

[2strokd]

I recently had a CDI fail on my Kymco. It would act all kinds of weird when cold with misfires and backfires then clear up with a little heat. Got worse and started fouling plugs and whatnot until i didnt trust it anymore. Got a new box and all is well.

[90GTVert]

Before I get to what I tried today, here's what it was doing with the swap from a 98 main jet to 105 yesterday.




I plugged in the CPI CDI in place of the Malossi CDI and it cleaned it up, but it still seized. Looks like I'll need to get another CDI so I have a spare. Not sure what I'm gonna get. Malossi worked pretty well... for ~1,000 miles. Not terribly impressive for a Malossi part. Can't really get the CPI CDIs like I've always used anymore.




I went up to a 110 main. Then it felt soft all the way till past 9,500RPM (50+MPH) and as it felt like it gained power it started missing. Did it multiple times.




A little lighter sliders could help to get RPM up and make it pull harder, but something else is clearly wrong. Reminds me of an ignition miss because it's so abrupt. Really wouldn't have thought it would be so much different with the same kit and 2 degrees more ex/xfer timing, but I guess who knows what's been going on. Still, it ran so well on the successful beach ride with it setup exactly as it was when I first fired it up this time around.

[190mech]

The new jug may be bored smaller than the last,,Plenty of CDI choices these days,problem is which one will work the best...

[2strokd]

I hate the sound of a softy seize

[90GTVert]

I started out today, which was a full 20 degrees cooler than yesterday, by putting in a new BR8HS and gapping it to 0.020". It ran a little better, but still broke up some and lacked power. Noticed the coolant temp was staying a little higher than normal.

I swapped to a 114 main from a 110. Also backed the timing off just a hair because of part throttle crackle. It would barely run. Way too much fuel.

I switched to a 108 main and it ran a little better than with the 110 and seemed to break up less up top. I could hold the throttle wide open for a long time without seizing, just the breaking up. It got over 160F coolant temp though, with outside temp in the 60s. CHT showed a max of 315.

When I got off of the scoot, I realized that it was leaking. It was coming from the connection at the cylinder, so I fixed that and topped it off. I thought that must be the temp issue.

I moved down to a 105 main jet and it ran even better. Still missed WOT though. The overheating was not fixed. When I came back, it was idling at 150F and climbing. Definitely not right.

I wanted to try to get one more jet run in though, so I switched to a 100. It previously used a 98. It ran well. Pretty much what I'm used to... aside from that miss at WOT... and running high coolant temp.

I realized by then though, that the WOT issue took longer to appear as I swapped down in jet size. Seemed like maybe the float height could be set too low or starving for fuel for some reason at WOT.

Before getting to that, I wanted to see what was going on with the heat. I let the scoot cool and turned the cap to release pressure. There were 3 loud pops of pressure. Much more pressure than should be in there. Maybe why I had a leak at what seemed like an okay connection earlier?

I started the engine and the coolant was bubbling, so I assumed a head gasket failed.




Sure enough. So far, these o-rings have failed on the corners by the studs every time.












Make a little progress and then this. I wanted to be at H20i in Ocean City tomorrow. I immediately took the head off and cleaned it and the cylinder deck and put on fresh o-rings. If I get lucky, maybe I can still make it. I know it's not advised, but I prob won't pressure test it. Don't want to have to wait for sealant on the exhaust port too. Most of the issue now is having to wait on the sealant on the head to cure. I'm gonna try to do test runs when I can tomorrow and see if it's sorted out or not.

I set the float height higher. Then gas overflowed. It was already pretty high. I set it back a little. Not sure that it's much different than it started.

I also set the timing back a little more because of knock at part throttle.


Why did I want to go LC again?

[Lucass2T]

Do you use silicone sealant on the head's o-rings? If no, try it. Unless ypur head is warped i would recommend it. I always use sealant on all the l.c scooter stuff i worked on. Never had any sudden or unusual leaks.

[90GTVert]

I've used it every time. That's the grey stuff you can see leftover on the thin spots of the o-ring. I've noticed that most other kits use 4 small o-rings for the studs and a separate one for the bore. Wondering if this is why they tend to do it that way. Not that it matters, because I don't think you can fit that style on this big of a bore.

[fly]

What's the origin of those head gaskets? And everything is flat? Repeatedly blowing head gaskets I always think warp.

[fly]

To add, the symptoms sound like a head gasket going from bad to blown. Hi temps, and what sound to me like "ied" misfires, etc.

[90GTVert]

Sept 28, 2018 5:03:55 GMT -5 fly said:

What's the origin of those head gaskets? And everything is flat? Repeatedly blowing head gaskets I always think warp.

Getting them from PFS, HOCA branded. Don't really know of other choices. Stock for DRR and Apex LC 90cc ATVs may work. They are a 52mm bore. That's the only other place I know of to get them. About $30 for the set shipped, vs maybe $15 for a shipped set. No clue if they're actually better.

www.g-forcepowersports.com/product-p/12300-e01-000.htm
www.g-forcepowersports.com/product-p/12310-e01-100.htm


Regarding repeated failures; this is the first with this new cylinder kit. With the last kit, I did run the head across sandpaper and glass, but it appeared to be pretty true. I think I did the cylinder deck too and it looked OK.

[90GTVert]

I got up early this morning to try to get what I had to do done, then got out to the scoot a little after 8AM. Got it fired up and filled up with coolant and took it down the road. Ran pretty well. It missed once holding it WOT. I let off and got back in it and it did fine. I noticed that it would hang at idle at times, and still crackled part throttle.

It ran cool (120s-140s) for the ride, and when I pulled into the garage it started heating up again. Got up to 150 before I shut it off. Oh no. No, no, no. So close, I thought.

I realized that coolant was up to pretty much the top of my expansion tank then. I cracked the top slowly and some pressure came out. Normal kinda pressure, not like what I experienced yesterday. Then I took out some coolant to lower the level.

I took a longer ride, about 17.5 miles, to see how it did and the temp was good. It ran as low as 118F cruising 25MPH past a couple of sheriff's deputies in town at one point. Stayed not much hotter than 140 at any point. I adjusted the mix screw a little richer before I left, but that didn't fix the minor hang if the throttle was held in certain spots before being released.

I got back home and it didn't even heat up quickly in the garage. I think the garage is pretty still and warmer than the outside ATM, so that didn't help, but I either over filled it somehow before or worked out an air pocket.

I let it cool down and re-torqued the cylinder studs. The bottom 2 were loose, just like last time. I also set the needle in the 2nd leanest position, from the leanest. Tried it again just now and it runs alright that way with less knock. Knock is still there, but it runs well enough that I don't want to try backing out more timing right now. I don't think it responds quite as well to throttle as-is, but it still gets the front light or up at times from near stopped speeds. Really need the light iggy to make it jump, but I just can't do that when I want to ride at night.

Seems to be doing fine, so I'm gonna try to charge the last of my GoPro batteries, set up the rear cam, clean my gear, and some stuff like that and head down to OC in a bit. Hopefully the engine and the CVT will stay together for me and I can stay awake for the whole ride.